Gary Lewis

Did you bleed the master itself? See Page 12 here: Driveline/Brakes and on the Factory Shop Manual tab and then the General Brake Service tab. (That's a new section, so you didn't miss it.)

There's really nothing magic about a particular fuel pump. But, some of them run higher pressure than others, so if you were going to go with an Edelbrock carb later, which doesn't like high pressure, I'd consider the Carter pump. Or, maybe even the Edelbrock one, although it is surely more money.

Links to the amazon parts are no longer valid. But I get it, all I need is a Single Pole Double Throw, 20A, 12VDC relay. I'll find one that has a mounting tab. Also, the wires coming out of my wire harness don't look like that. I will snap a photo tonight. It was the socket/pigtail link that was broken, but it's now fixed. The link to the relay itself works for me. As for your wiring, you don't have the auxiliary battery relay. But you should have the big yellow wire with the green connector, although it won't be hooked to anything.

Not sure those panels aren't just the odd color mix that Ford did. But, it is a lot of truck for $2K.

It came in this morning, Bill. Thanks again!

Did some badly-needed cleanup and rearranging on the Driveshafts page (Driveline/Driveshafts). And, while doing so I added the factory shop manual's writeups on single and double-cardan driveshafts. But, I'd appreciate it if you'd take a look and see if it makes sense to you. Start with the How To Locate Part #'s tab and read the instructions. Do they work for you? Also, I bought a new tab application that lets me get more tabs on a page than before. Heretofore I was stuck with 5 wide before the arrows came up to scroll. But now that we have the website using more of the screen and I have the new app I can get many more tabs on. So I went with 7 for the Driveshafts page. Does it work for you on whatever devices you are using?

Electrical/Ignition and then the Ignition Simplification tab and the One-Wire tab. There's the discussion of wire size, a wiring diagram, and a suggested relay as well as a place to get battery power w/o running wire all around the truck.

I have 2/3's of what you need. I have the clamp and factory bolt, but not the factory lock washer. However, it is just a 1/4-20 bolt and I have a generic 1/4" lock washer, so it'll work fine. Email me your address and I'll get them in the mail. Here's the one on Big Blue, and you can see why I need to pull the engine and replace the front seal, and the pic on the left is what I have for you.

But then I would have MORE wiring, and a DS-II box to mount. HEI is all contained, and plug and play. What does the DS-II box do? Control timing? Why? Mechanical and vacuum advance can take care of that right? Does the DS-II dizzy not have mechanical advance? Only Vacuum? DS-II has no timing, just fire. The HEI module doesn't do timing either, just fire. The distributors in both cases do the timing via the mechanical/centrifugal advance and vacuum advance. It just so happens that the HEI module is in the dizzy so it has fewer wires running on the outside.

I got a full 12.5V at the original coil wire. If I understand correctly, the trucks that had a ballast resistor, dropped the voltage down to 9-9.5 volts. That doesn't seem to be the case here. I am not sure what gauge the wire is, I can take a look later. Yes, there is a ballast resistor. But, without the engine running there is no current to the coil so no voltage drop across the resistor. And Bill is telling you the truth. You have to have a large wire to the HEI and it needs to come from the battery via a relay. The relay can be pulled in by that wire you found, but power to the relay comes from the battery.

Grafting several intakes together has been done, but there's no reason to cap between them. Connecting them gives more balance to the air/fuel ratio than keeping them separate would do. And, it lets the heat from the center one get to the other intakes for fuel atomization. As for the wooden box, you'd also need a metal plate to protect where the exhaust gases would hit the wood. But, otherwise it might work and provide heat isolation for the carb. As for height, you want it to be close to stock so the throttle cable, air cleaner, etc fit.

That's bizarre! I'll take a fix any way I can get it, but.....

Let me look at what I have. Back later......

Bill - Good catch. That distributor does have the vacuum advance unit. So, with the right wiring harness and a DS-II box he would have been in business.

The thread on FTE doesn't say where he got it, just that it is a Carter YF 4901 S carburetor [from 1970 F350 with 300 engine]; choke converted to manual. Perhaps David will be on in a bit and tell us where he got it.

Looks strange sitting on what look like roller skate wheels. Otherwise, nice truck.

Nice truck for the price!

I'm by those the way I am about the newer King Ranch pickups.

All 82's used EOTZ 8592-B as the thermostat housing, which Ford calls a Connector. The difference was in what screwed into the port.

Yep, looks like more conversion is needed.

Sounds like you are getting things sorted on the engine. Once it is clean then we can address whatever smell is left. But it might be air/fuel related, like maybe a leaking power valve or maladjusted idle mix. On the parts, we have the Want To Buy folder, and I'm sure the guys that have things listed in there would be interested in what you find. Or you could advertise what you find in the For Sale, Trade, or Free To A Good Home folder. But there's almost always interest in things you listed.

I just read through that thread yesterday and I believe it was a 1970 F350 carb? Right. Still need to find where he got it.......

The vacuum tree at/on the thermostat housing is mainly there for emissions, not heater control, and I believe it can be eliminated. It can on the V8's, and I'm pretty sure it can on the six. The two bolts are probably the ones that tie the intake to the exhaust? On the carb, David bought a carb, if I remember correctly, from a rebuild house and has been happy with it. I'll see what I can find in his report on MPG. And the spacer is necessary if not running EGR. Or, modify the EGR plate. Jonathan and David know about those things. Let's see if they chime in before I find it via searching.

You apparently had a lab assistant. But I think you've figured it out. However, here's the way I'd say it: You'll lock out overdrive w/the button on the end of the gear shift lever, and run in 3rd 95% of the time. And at 55 MPH you'll be turning 2K RPM, and at 65 MPH you'll be turning 2320 R's. I think you can easily do the 55 MPH and may well want to do 65. When you get into the hills our mountains you'll pull it down manually into 2nd and can run 55 MPH at 3k RPM. So, you don't have the trailer to test? You could borrow my car-hauler trailer, which comes in around 2800 lbs and see what you think. It won't have the wind resistance, quite, of a pop-up trailer, but it'll make up for that in the weight. And, with two axles/sets of wheels on the ground it has more resistance. Just take it for a spin and see what you think. Or, maybe better, find a bit smaller trailer to try. But, get one with brakes so you get the feel of that.

I just have to ask - how many of our projects turn out to be way easier than we thought?