Gary Lewis

I think that would be too much cholesterol. Its one thing to have an order of Sonic's onion rings, but a Bloomin' Onion on your own is way too much.

Conversion to 4wd is pretty simple.

That thing is well used! You really got your money's worth on that truck. But, fixing it up will be a joy.

Wow! What a cool story! Not only did you buy it new, but you ordered it - exactly like you thought you'd like. I think that's a family heirloom. At least the son rode in it when small, and both kids drove it to school. So, spruce it up and impress the soon-to-be grands? The wetness may be from leaks around the windshield. The butyl they glued the windshields in with has usually dried and cracked by now. The best fix is to pull the windshield and put it back with new glue. But a temp fix is flowable RTV. However, if there's rust under the windshield it'll continue to expand, so it really should be fixed. The door panels can sometimes be sanded down to better plastic and repainted. Sometimes. But it takes a lot of sanding with 60-grit wet-or-dry used wet or it'll clog almost immediately. And you won't have the right texture, but is that important? The dash is best covered with a Coverlay cap. Not perfect but pretty good. Anyway, keep us posted what you do.

A jigsaw is probably more-efficient (burns through its battery slower, for the distance it cuts), but I was surprised at how clean a cut I got from the slitting chisels, and how fast they cut through sheet metal. A hammer drill that can be set to hammer-only would drive it. Grumpin - It is all in the way the information is presented. I explained that the yard has the part but that it will be less expensive if I pull it. But, my battery-powered reciprocating saw won't work as there's still a transmission down below that it would hit. So, I need a right-angle grinder, but it has to be battery-powered as there's no 110v in the yard. Ridgid has one that uses my considerable complement of batteries, but from Home Depot it only comes in kits with other tools - for $300 or $700. And I already have most of those tools. However, Direct Tool has the grinder by itself for $99, and we are going to be there anyway on Friday. On top of that, the Ridgid vacuum that we'd already agreed I'd buy when there isn't available in anything but a kit with a blower, which I don't need. So, this is less money all the way around. Steve - I've not been impressed with how long metal-cutting jigsaw blades last. I've tried several different ones in my little 110V saw and they tend to die pretty quickly. But I've had good luck with cutoff wheels on a right-angle grinder, so will be going that way. And I'm not worried about the power situation. I have 4 batteries and that video says the batteries lasted a long time. So I should have plenty of power.

Dunno. But this thread on FTE says that the V10 measures "roughly 30 inches from the edge of one valve cover to the other, and roughly 34 inches from the back of the motor at the bell housing to the front of the fan." And this thread on here gives this chart shown below. So we have the V10 at 30" x 34" and the 460 at 31 1/4" x 31 3/4". But, the V10 is to the front of the fan and the 460 is to the water pump shaft, and the fan could easily at 2". So, I'd say it would probably fit lengthwise. But would the pan miss the crossmember? Maybe because Ford used the V10 in place of a 460 in some cases from what little I've read.

Sure. It doesn't cost a thing.

David can probably answer the question about the pan. His mechanic had to drop his pan a year and a half ago when the gunk let loose in the engine and plugged the oil pump pickup. I don't know what he had to do to get it off, but David probably will. On the exhaust and intake, the 300 begs for an upgrade.

It is surprising that they'd use so many different sizes of frames. But the 1983 dealer facts book has what appears to be the same chart with a different date. But .146" is the thickness of the F150's frame not that of the Bronco.

As I am wont to say, these trucks are like onions. We peel and cry, but pretty soon we'll have a mess of onion rings!

Responded to your question here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Website-Forum-Suggestion-Box-tp4094p25787.html

I'm sure David will answer the questions tomorrow, but here's what I know. 1. Don't know about 87+ manifolds. That's when the EFI manifolds appeared and they were used at least through '89, which is when my catalog ends. 2. You have a good point about the headers going down the passenger's side. I don't know why that wouldn't work. 3. Heat is needed to atomize the fuel. With a long, flat manifold like that of the 300, without some heat fuel drops out of the mix and the air/fuel ratio goes lean. So some heat is beneficial. But, you are right that heat reduces the # of oxygen molecules that are in a given volume of air, so it does reduce efficiency. Given that, there needs to be a balance.

T19?

Bit of a redo on the Brake section: Driveline/Brakes. It now has all 8 sections from the factory service manual, which total 86 pages, as well as illustrations and parts lists for all the systems.

Check out the pages buried here: Fasteners & Illustrations/Front Clip. There are pages under that which have illustrations with blue boxes, which are hot links. Click on them to be taken to a picture of the fastener and, frequently, a part number and source. But that won't cover everything, so let me know what ones you are missing and I'll see what I can do for part numbers and sources.

Glad you figured it out. But it was grumpin, not me. As for the sound and lack of modification, I would say it is pretty tame. But even a little bit more overlap or lift in a 302 cam will mellow out somewhat in the 351. Once you turn the dizzy to 10 BTDC check your vacuum - with no vacuum advance on it. If you are running 20+" of vacuum you have a nice, mild cam. Congrat's!!!

Called North Yale Auto Salvage, which is maybe 10 miles away, and they think they have the right truck. And they'll let me cut it out. Further, they do allow battery-powered cutoff wheels, which Brandon tells me that some do not.I'm not going to be available until next week, so hope get over there then. And, in the interim I have a good excuse to buy this:

Yipes! The $5250 prices ain't bad, but then you have to have the EEC-Z (I have no idea what drives it) computer system. And what tranny will bolt to it? Then you have to have a computer to run the tranny.

Probably a whole new exhaust system would be easier/better.

I've said that I won't buy a vehicle that can't be driven unless I'm buying it to part out. But this one might be an exception as it appears to be pretty solid.

You can use the original log intake with the EFI manifolds. That's what I thought. So, Ray, now you have a good reason to go with the EFI manifolds.

Perhaps. I'm not sure of that, but maybe.

Drilling one out is no fun. Maybe it would be more fun to buy the EFI manifolds?

80/81 F100/350.U150 — w/o clock and w/radio EOTZ 10044D70-K R.H.-wood grain finish

If you buy a set measure them and let us know as others might want to replicate them via air brushing.