Gary Lewis

Ford's instructions for that bolts to use to replace rivets are in this TSB: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-gear-frame-liner.html

It is really looking good! And I think the triangular gussets would be a help. Can't wait for the finished pics and writeup.

Ray - That would be cool!

Gary.. This truck has rot in every body panel. Are we looking at the same truck? Maybe I was too hasty?

I have the same Coverlay cover for Big Blue. Not sure when I'll put it on, but the one I had on an '82 Explorer made a huge difference. Well worth the cost. Now, if all the upgrades go that well you'll be done by Monday.

Welcome.

Unfortunately I cannot get a clear pic as I have both the original sound deadening and what seems to be a pretty mangled floor that makes it hard to discern what is a body line and what is damage. However, after looking at the picture you posted of your floor, although there are some differences in the 1990 floor, the area in question is the same between my cab and yours. Interesting. So the floors in that area look to be the same. That means to potential donors are more plentiful. Thanks.

I agree. Rebuild stock.

I like SEM brand vinyl paints. Others may have good results with other paints however. But, the key to painting plastic or vinyl is prep. Check out the SEM line and what their recommended prep is. It is pretty detailed, but gives good results.

That is going to be FUN!

The 460 was reintroduced in 1983 in the F250's and heavier.

Good tip on the pen. And having anything on the engine touch the frame will cause all sorts of vibes - bad, bad, bad vibrations.

I think the accelerator pump is suspect. You should be able to see two strong streams of gas shoot into the carb when you crawl up over it, engine off, and open the throttle quickly.

Bill - I will be able to use a low cover over the E4OD instead of one of the later tall covers like the ZF5 takes. Shaun - Sorry, I forgot. Can you take a pic of either the inside or bottom side of the floor, just ahead of the inside seat belt bolt holes? Maybe with a tape in the pic? Thanks.

Trent?

Yes, D3T is Nutmeg and it was used in '81 & 2.

That would be great. Here's the one in the link David posted. Looks to me like it would lend itself nicely to lighted switches, meaning ones that have dim glow when off and bright glow when on, across the bottom and a display across the top. And, that display area might be perfect for the Arduino's output, the one that will interface the Bricknose sender(s) to the Bullnose fuel gauge, as well as provide all kinds of other info. Thoughts on switches include: Air Compressor: Clutch switch to a Tecumseh A/C compressor used as an air compressor. High Idle: This is the PTO input to the ECU to raise the idle speed, which would be useful when winching for increased alternator output. Battery Parallel: The aux battery relay I'll use won't always parallel the batteries, but it has the ability to force parallel. Exterior Lights: I want to have various lights, like "fog" or "driving" lights as well as serious backup lights which might be too bright for normal driving.

My understanding is that they aren't being manufactured any more. So, while they can be found "new", like that one, they are really NOS. Found this statement here: But then I found this here, from 6 years ago: So, I don't know.

I think we knew the big trucks used those interior parts, but maybe not what years nor what might be available. For instance, that center bezel might be really helpful on Big Blue, so can you take a pic of the upper area where the clock would have gone? And, were there switches in there that could be used? As for the weave pattern, there were actually small differences in the weaves, or at least the raised bead around the openings. So can you give us a closeup of what you got? And maybe compare that to yours on the Bronco? And, what did you get those items out of?

Bummer! I know nothing about the brackets. In fact, I don't have any of them to measure. But, when you get this all worked out we do need to document it, and that's where I can help.

Pretty! But it would look even better in black or blue with the ribs sanded back to aluminum.

I've seen dual exhausts with the spare and aux tank in place, so it can be done with factory manifolds. But long-tube headers move the starting point of the exhaust system back quite a ways, and that might make it difficult. As for the heads, I don't think Ford had "fuel injection" heads for the 302. They did for the 460, and they were so different that the intakes and exhausts from a carb'd engine won't bolt up. But I hadn't heard that there were any FI heads for the 302/5.0L. Did I miss something?

I can't answer that 'cause I've not built a 300. But if you look at the fine print on the 300 six specifications tab you'll see that there were several different camshafts for that engine. I wouldn't want to build an engine and assume that the stock cam was the right one for what I'm doing. Instead, I'd want to put a new cam in it with what some cam company says is the right one.

Ray - When you have a very talented paint/body man, who has already spent countless extra hours on this truck to get it right, tell you he doesn't think we should beat on it you listen. Or, at least I do. John is way more than "capable". I've seen him shape metal, and I'm confident he can do it. But in this case, standing there looking at the issue, he said he's been thinking about this a LOT, and he just doesn't think using a hammer is the right approach. Grumpin - Yes, the original floor save for a bit. We just have to move the high/low transition back 2". I've stood there and gazed at the floor and think "I've got it!" and then say "I ain't got it." There's just something creative about taking a piece of one floor and laying it over another floor that escapes me. I don't have a creative bone in my body. I know it can be done, but I just haven't twigged as to exactly where to cut to make it happen. So, I'll cut a much bigger piece out of the donor than is necessary to make sure I have enough. I've thought about playing with it on Photoshop. Copy a section and see if I can lay it over the other section and make it work. Perhaps I should try that.

As the signature says, Big Blue is an XLT Lariat Explorer. And as the page below says, I think it is a Package B, but with a few things added, like the trailer package, aux battery, and a 460.