Gary Lewis

Ohhh, I like that page, Steve! So, there's a link to it on the Driveline/Calculators page now.

If they sucked all the refrigerant out then that explains why it wouldn't come on. And, if so, you'll have no pressure to speak of.

Yipes!!! As Steve said, you can get a whole vehicle for that! By the way, Steve, have you taken shelter???? All - Brandon is over and we've been instructed to Take Shelter NOW!

Grumpin - No thanks, I have what I need.

Uses of E8TZ 5C139-B: # Years Mdl 4wd Diesel/460 Leafs 4 1980-89 F150 X X No F150 got the big engines so this is wrong. 6 1980-89 F250 SC X X X 7 1980-89 F250 RC X X X 8 1980-89 F350 133" X X X RCLB 9 1980-89 F350 136" X X X Chassis cab was 136.8" 10 1980-87 F350 160" X X X Chassis cab was 160.8" 13 1981-89 F150 SP X X SP = Snow Plow. But no F150 got the big engines so... 14 1983-89 F350 168" X X X Crew Cab 22 1988-89 F350 160" X X X Chassis cab was 160.8" 23 1988-89 F350 155" X X X SCLB

Ok, here's the scoop. And Jonathan was right. As you can see on the left, the engine crossmember has basic part # 5C139. Then on the right a 1980-89, which is as far as the catalog goes, regular cab F250 has Parts List #7. And on #7 you find that the part for a diesel or 7.5L is E8TZ 5C139-B. And my next post will be determining which parts lists and, therefore, trucks used that part number......

Yes, I've already realized that Huck probably had the right floor as well as crossmember. But, before Brandon/Bruno2 gets here to play "machine shop" I'll do some cataloging to see if I can find part numbers for the crossmembers. However, if there's a doubt about the Dad's crossmember being different from Big Blue's, see the pics below. The one on the left is Jim's, which should be identical to Big Blue's. The one on the right is Dad's. Note that the 460 has two holes, presumably the one to the front is to tighten the bolts that Bill mentioned. And, the 460's has a dent in the crossmember just ahead of the front hole. That's to clear the oil filter. But Dad's has only one hole and no dent, so it would not allow the oil filter to go on, and maybe not even the adapter that runs engine oil to the cooler.

Jonathan - I thought the 460 had a different crossmember than the "other" engines. But, that's just what I've read. And the reason for that was supposed to be due to the oil filter's location. So, I really need to understand what crossmembers, meaning what years and engines, are correct for Big Blue as I think I am looking. Headed out to the shop in a bit and I'll compare Jim's pic, above, to the crossmember on Dad's truck to see what I can figure out. But, Brandon is coming over for some machine-shop time, so I need to get started... Jim - I'm in full agreement: replace the material or replace the crossmember. And in the interim install bolts where they should be. But, if I can find a crossmember from which to "borrow" the material, then why not borrow the whole crossmember. It'll be "right" and I will not have to worry about the welds nor whether having welded them in weakened things when I get Big Blue crossed up on a trail 1000 miles from home. Folks, I hate to say it but I'm BUMMED! What was to have been a fun project of upgrading the 460 to EFI and adding a ZF5 has become a needed project to replace a major suspension component.

I didn't think that look correct. Glad you got it fixed that easily.

Jim - It is raining here as well, and may do all week. No need for any of us to get wet as I'm not ready to do anything quite yet. But, I do want to do some planning, so seeing what I have vs what it is supposed to be would help. And, here's one of your pics. Don't think I'm going to find a better shot. Looks to me like they opened up the back of the two holes by sawing the horizontal and vertical parts out to just above the bolt line for the perch. And then only put one of the three horizontal bolts in. Thoughts on what to do? As for the suspension, sounds like it is correct, albeit poorly designed.

Those gears will give 15% more torque in all situations. It is possible that you'll be able to tow in OD if the trailer is small enough since you'll be turning 1905 at 65 MPH. And while the 2683 RPM @ 65 MPH seems a bit much, it isn't much more than Big Blue's 2500 at that speed, so would work nicely for towing. If you go back to the trailer towing guide you'll see that with those gears you are "on the map" with a max trailer weight of 7100 lbs. However, I think that is high, and especially so if you look at the 1986 owners manual. Anyway, you can tow!

Wow! You are on a mission! Well done! Hope you'll share a pic of the whole thing done - w/o the shaded spot. As for the bucket, don't hit the gas or the brake hard.

I don't remember seeing two springs on the linkage. What happens if you take the silver spring off?

I agree, grumpin. Wrapping works until the corrosion kills the pipes. And any paint is only temporary, so the discussion about color isn't a big deal. However, ceramic coating does last.

Jonathan - I don't know. I haven't gotten my head around what I'm looking at there. But that's for the IDI, right? And the 460 has a different crossmember, so I don't think it is the same hole.

Remember that my degrees are in math and physics. But, it gets into what is called "black body radiation". Here's the Wikipedia writeup, but the basics are that just as a black surface absorbs more radiation than a white surface, it also radiates more heat than a white surface. The descriptive explanation is: So a black exhaust system will radiate more heat than a white or silver one.

Are you sure that you have the left and right sides in the same notches? I've gotten them out of sync and that caused similar problems to what you described. Perhaps it makes the wire between them too short?

For looks black is good. But, not so for the life of the starter nor economy. Black radiates heat well, so the starter will be baked. And, the removed energy reduces the flow and, therefore, the power and economy. White is the better choice for that. Or silver.

If I had a 3D printer that big perhaps I could!

Yes, you should change the fluid. There's no downside and certainly an upside. And I think Ford did use some gasket maker later, but I'm not sure when it started.

Shaun - Apparently there are NO honest mechanics in your state. Certainly Vernon found none. Everything he had done was done so poorly as to be criminal. Grumpin - Thanks. As well I.

A bad battery can cause high current and weld the relay shut. But yours doesn't appear to have been welded shut. So I don't think that confirms that the battery was the issue. On the other hand, if it doesn't come back then you solved it.

I would roll the engine over slowly and inspect the teeth on the flywheel. You may find that there are some bad teeth on it that are causing the starter to stick. If not, then you may have a bad starter. However, you should also check the bolts holding it on.

Oh... See, that red paint would bother me more than the sections of the frame being cut...lol. Not that I dislike red, but I hate it when people paint things weird colors like that. There are red mounts on the engine, red links on the sway bars, red brackets for the A/C compressor, and even red poly mounts for the suspension. Much of that is going to change when the engine is out.

Yes, 2wd pics would help 'cause the crossmembers are the same - right? And, I agree that they probably cut things to get to those bolts. But......