Gary Lewis

I actually wanted the lights for my Bronco. Driving lights, a little extra when no one is around. (Maybe on all the time as bright as some of these lights are nowadays!) But, it looks better than I thought it would in person. Might have to put them on both vehicles. Got a lot of things to do, so it's low on the list right now. And yes, it is amazing how much better those seals are! I'll add lights to Big Blue at some point, so am always looking to see what is available.

You underestimate the guys here. It is a truck, and a Bullnose one at that. They'll be interested. Someone is still shooting Emron? Back when I did some painting that was mainly used for aircraft. Expensive and hard. Rake? You know what that is? And retired? You may be approaching my elevated age of almost 72.

Steve - The piece was from an '85 regular cab, and was identical to the floor of Dad's truck. That let me move it back 2", which got the clearance I needed, but still have it mate to the floor nicely. I wonder if a later floor would work as well, or maybe even better. I wish I still had Huck, both to have tried that as well as to get the crossmember for Big Blue. Jim - It was nerve wracking to say the least. What if it doesn't work and I have a hole in the floor? But a lot of study and the Photoshop playing showed it would work, so I was game. As for the fasteners, I like the sheet metal screw suggestion. You are right that pop rivets don't always pull things together, and when I have the adhesive in there I sure don't want to be drilling a rivet out. But I think I'll drill pilot holes in the patch, then drill starter holes in the floor. And I'll do that today to ensure that it is going to go together nicely w/o having to bend things. Then I'll pick up the adhesive when we are in Tulsa on Monday and be ready to do the work on Tuesday. As said, Brandon recommended this adhesive, M1, and I talked it over with John and he thought it would be fine. One of its pluses is that it has good flexibility as well as adhesion. Initially I worried that it might not be strong enough, but with 16 pop rivets holding the patch on I am no longer worried about that.

I probably need some kind of a footer that goes on most, but not all, pages which states what the various things are in the catalog. Like those numbers, the star, etc. I'll look into that....

Dave - Welcome to the forum! Glad to meet you. You said "south Florida", but we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to put you on it if I had a town. As for the inner fenders, or fender aprons as Ford called them, I have some info on them here: Underhood/Fender Aprons. But, until I finish Dad's truck and figure out which ones I want to use I'm not ready to part with the ones I have. Hopefully someone else on here will have one - perhaps someone closer to you as shipping may be expensive for something that big. Last, how 'bout starting a thread in the main section to not only show us your truck, which sounds like a very nice one, but to track what you do to it?

Any vacuum reservoir will work if the hoses will fit. But you can see part numbers here (Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Reservoirs) and you can probably find them online.

Bill - I'm not sure how to answer your question. I've looked but I have to translate "crew cab" to a wheelbase, which I think is 168". Then I look at the parts list, which appears to be #14, to see the answer, and I see 2wd and leaf springs, but no "DRW". So, maybe you can take a look. The info is here: Suspension & Steering/Crossmembers. As for the storms, I think Jonathan is sending them, not me.

SUCCESS!!!! I got the floor cut and the plan will work. I'll include a bunch of pictures below to document what I did, but the bottom line is that there is currently 1 1/8" of clearance, so when the 3/8" spacers are taken out and the mounts tightened down, which will probably be about 1/4", there will be 1/2" of clearance. But, I also modified the plans for positioning the patch with pop rivets. John and I'd agreed that I could probably get by with 2 - 4 rivets, but I'm now planning to use 16 of them. The reason is that the edges of the floor turn down away from the patch, and unless I pull them up with the rivets there will be a gap, albeit filled with adhesive. So I've planned to use rivets as indicated by the black dots, left, and the reason why to the right:

Yes, nice chairs. Grumpin - Isn't it amazing how much difference the seals make? Just amazing! And the lights look like they should work well, but what is the plan for them? Are they driving or fog or?

Yes, they certainly are! Chevy Stepside bumpers won't fit a Ford. Seriously though, you have to pay attention to the body types, which are shown in parentheses. So when you see (83) that's for a Flareside, and when you see (99) that's for a Styleside.

You saw that I added the brackets to the Bumpers page - right?

Looks like it is this one, but where "WAP" comes from I dunno:

Today's plan is tracking pretty well: - Janey got a good report from the eye doctor - Breakfast was excellent, as always, at Cracker Barrel - The 2nd cup of French Roast was good - Trial fitting of the floor piece is going well. In fact, I think I'm "there". This moves the "drop-down" back exactly 2". And that gains 5/8" in height over the t-case. Now to lay out and cut the floor of the truck.

Wow! A lathe with a chuck large enough to take the big end of even a small engine's crank is big. As for the master cylinder, glad you caught it before the trip. And, speaking of that, you ought to try towing a trailer to see what you think of how your truck handles it. And you are probably right about the connector. The E4OD is fully electronically controlled, so the computer knows when the tranny can be using power. But that doesn't tell it what the power steering is doing. You can look at the pinouts on the ECU's here (Electrical/Electronic Engine Control) and see which ones used that signal. However, I don't know what the power steering signal's name is. Hmmm, I'll check the '96 EVTM to see what it says about the name of that input to the ECU.

👌 And today’s plan starts with Janey’s eye appointment, and we are sitting in the doctor’s office as I type. Then breakfast, probably Cracker Barrel. Then home, hopefully before the storm, and have another cuppa, perhaps watching the predicted lightning. And then, out to the shop to trim that piece as previously described. I’ve been thinking through how to document all this in case someone else wants to install a 4wd E4OD in a Bullnose regular cab. One thing to remember to point out is that the NP208 doesn’t fit as well as the BW’s. And, I need some dimensions shown on pics of the donor part as well as the to-be hole in Dad’s floor. Anyone think of anything else?

On the clutch, how about .050" shim stock? If I remember correctly we had the clutch down to 1.100" or so on a 1.000" crank. So cut a piece of shim stock to wrap around all but the key way, punch a hole in it for the lock bolt, and slip it in. As for working the weekend, it is supposed to rain Saturday morn. Hope you will be inside. And motivation is a problem, but friends like us can help. Start a thread on Jr and post what you do. We'll egg you on.

Steve(n) - That's a cool story! My go kart had a Model N B&S, which was rated at 1.5 HP, so a 3 HP motor would be fun! But 8 1/2 HP???? And, you turned the crank down? How did you mount the crank in the lathe? With a face plate? Grumpin - Most of the seals I've taken out have come out in pieces. Ford used some pretty questionable "rubber" back then. Anyway, having done that to Big Blue I was very pleased with the lack of noise.

Gary, I printed STEEL a few year ago when I worked for Remington Arms. I believe the machine was a DLMS machine. You start with a bed of powdered alloy. The plate has to match the material properties of the powder. Then a laser welds the powder in layers to the plate. You end with a part perfect to your model, but with ~70% of the yield strength, depending of the alloy. You can heat treat, and regain more of the material properties, but because of the welding process, and inevitable inclusions, its never 100%. Ray - The key word in my post was "we". Meaning that I'm hoping that the rank and file can soon print steel. Hopefully places like Shapeways will buy the printer and we can use it.

For me it is the journey and not the destination. I do get frustrated when things like this come up, but then it is time to think through it and find a resolution. In this case I'm sure that I have and it'll just take time to work through it.

By golly, I think Mr Fox is right and I'm wrong.

Pretty!

I sent John, my paint/body man, a link to the above post with the lines showing where I'll cut the floor and the donor piece, and then he called after viewing it. He agreed with my plan, so I went over to the salvage and cut this piece out. Then tried it in Dad's truck and it fits perfectly. So now I'm in a position to trim it as planned, ensure it'll fit as I expect, and then trim Dad's truck. That's kinda scary, but I think it'll work well. Brandon/Bruno2 has recommended ChemLink's M1 adhesive/sealant, which he uses often. I checked with John and he thought it would be a fine choice. As for how easy it was to cut out, that Ridgid right-angle grinder in the pic, which I picked up last weekend, did the job so easily it was scary. Went through not quite two cutoff wheels, but the battery is still showing 3 of 4 bars. And I had three more batteries with me.

I forgot that, David. Good job. I'll check the 1980 dealer's facts book this afternoon to see if it says anything about it and when it was used. I've taken Janey to an appointment now, and may go up to see John about the plans for Dad's floor when I get home, so we shall see when/if I get it done.

I like the second one, shown below. But didn't Ford have one that was similar? I'll have to look at my stash.

E0TZ-1013100-A [?] Ding, ding, ding!! We have a winner. It is E0TZ 1013100-A Retainer (Floor Carpet Center) and is for 1980, only, and is for F100/350 and U150. Said to be "oblong" and NLA. Well done, David! How did you do that?