Gary Lewis

Pomade? LOL!!!!!

Glad your data is still there. That would be awful!

Grumpin - Thanks, that bracket and harness would make things a lot easier. Shaun - I've not heard good things about many of the aftermarket rear window seals. This one certainly is smaller, but is it good otherwise?

Ray - They are polyurethane. And they didn't really compress. They just moved out of the way for the most part. I checked with Energy Suspensions and their page for body bushings gives these steps: No mention of using the yukky clear grease on the body bushings, although they do say to use it on the suspension bushing, and I did. Chad - Are you saying I should try vegetable oil?

Yup. That's why I chose 3M. At least the gun won't be obsolete in a year or two. But it's a big nut for a one off job. Ask Brandon about Hilti plural mix guns for setting rebar or threaded rod in concrete and block. Though they aren't quite so proud of them as 3M are. If your body man will loan it to you for a day, great! You're much better off. The mixing tip is a consumable, but this is why I floated the idea of mixing by hand. (It can be done, in a pinch) Jim - Just got a text from John, the paint/body man, and he'll call me on Monday with the info. We are headed to T-town that day so I should be able to pick the adhesive, as well as the rivets, up. And in the midst of that is, I think, an implied I'll-loan-you-the-tool. Shaun - It was tough to do. But, having already had an E4OD built and installed, something had to be done and this looked like the least-bad solution. In the end it'll work out fine and with the bedliner below and sound deadener above no one will be able to see it.

Nice! White? That's a good idea as it'll show every little leak, and quickly.

When I posted the pictures I pull the links from my site. When the domain name expired thesite went down. I was not fast enough to renew it and it was snagged so had to go with a different name. I have to work on the DNS and my site should be up. On the light fitting. For some reason the hole turned out to be too small and I even placed the flat stock on the bumper not on the inside of the opening as I knew that would make it smaller. I can only say I should have test fitted the light before welding that's why we tack weld right? Dave ---- The way Nabble does pictures, meaning uploading them to their site, ensures that even if the link becomes unusable, like when you loose the domain, the pics are still here on the forum. But sorry you lost the domain. As for the openings, that's a bummer.

Because John doesn't think I should. The heat would melt the bed liner he used underneath, and it would mess up a lot of paint. This way we just have a much smaller area to clean up.

Just an FYI, apparently you aren't supposed to use the gooey grease they send with the polyurethane suspension bushings on polyurethane body bushings. I did. What a mess! So, what happens if you do use the grease? You can tighten the body mounts down seemingly forever. And the bushings either slip over to the side and try to get out from under the cab or ooze around the mount on all sides. And, what do you do to correct this? Use lots of isopropyl alcohol. LOTS. And then Dawn detergent. Then more isopropyl alcohol. And then a hot shower to try to get it off of you. I'm not sure that I got it all, but I got most of it and will have to use something stronger to get the last of it.

Dave - On the pics, if when you "insert image" the file is available it'll be uploaded to Nabble. Then whatever happens elsewhere it'll still be here. But if it isn't available at the time you try to upload then I can't see it ever working later. At least, that's what I think - without trying it. On the welder, I just knew you were out of wire. Why? Been there, done that several times. But, I'm not sure I followed all of what you said about why the lights don't fit. I think I have it, but I'm a bit iffy on it. So I'll wait on the pics. As for broken promises, I prefer to think of them as plans, and plans don't always work out.

I think we discovered that those systems are EXPENSIVE, even in the UK where Alan is. So, he's come up with what is probably an inexpensive, at least by comparison, alternative.

Hadn't seen the last statement before just looking for the part #'s, but that probably explains why John said he'd tell whomever it was to sell to me. Meanwhile, back on the patch, it fits like shown below. The bottom pics are looking forward on the left, and looking rearward on the right. There's more gap than I want, and the screws are tight, so I'm going to massage the truck's floor up on the edges and see what I get. But I'm pretty sure I'll have to trim the rear cut back a bit. Oh yes, you can see the proximity of the seat belt anchors, which is one reason I want this to be solid. But with the adhesive on doubled pieces plus the rivets it should be at least as strong as it was originally. Ok, massaging the floor did the trick. Everything fits tightly except for the two grooves shown below in the old picture w/o massaging, and they have maybe a 1/4" gap. But the gap just goes back 1/8" or so before the two pieces come together. I'm thinking that the adhesive will fill that nicely, and any gap left will get filled with the undercoating John sprays on. Thoughts? As for the accessories for the adhesive, Jim is absolutely right. Looks like I'd better see if I can borrow the applicator from John. For 3M 08115 you need: 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive - 200 ml $41 3M 08117 MixPac Applicator Gun for 200 ml Cartridges $349 3M 8193 Mixing Nozzle, 1 Pack $14

Good points, Jim. I'll check out what the additional costs are for that 3M 08115. But the pdf says: Hadn't seen the last statement before just looking for the part #'s, but that probably explains why John said he'd tell whomever it was to sell to me. Meanwhile, back on the patch, it fits like shown below. The bottom pics are looking forward on the left, and looking rearward on the right. There's more gap than I want, and the screws are tight, so I'm going to massage the truck's floor up on the edges and see what I get. But I'm pretty sure I'll have to trim the rear cut back a bit. Oh yes, you can see the proximity of the seat belt anchors, which is one reason I want this to be solid. But with the adhesive on doubled pieces plus the rivets it should be at least as strong as it was originally.

That's good confirmation on the screws and rivets. And, I like what it says about drilling a hole and inserting a screw and then drilling the next hole and inserting a screw - "otherwise holes may not match perfectly". I have #10 screws, so I'll drill 3/16" holes in the panel, drill a 1/8" pilot to start the self-tapping screws. And I'm going to use 3/16" stainless blind pop rivets, assuming I can find them in the right grip range locally, so will then drill the holes to 3/16" after the adhesive sets up. And I think I'm sold on using an adhesive designed for panel bonding - assuming I can find it. But, thanks for the suggestions guys.

I would try the tar and bug remover first as it isn't supposed to hurt the original paint. If that doesn't work then try goo remover?

And I'm glad you are on board as well. Plus, you are on the map. Looks like your qualifications are extensive. Cool! No wonder you used Emron.

Kyle - I'm not 100% sure what all you said, but let me ask some questions. First, you said "does not seem to pick up any power when the spout is plugged in". But unless I misunderstand, your truck doesn't have a SPOUT connector. I've included the schematic, below, and it does have an STI connector. But my limited understanding of the STI is that it only causes the computer to flash the codes. However, connecting to it isn't going to change the "power". My guess is that you have enough things not connected or not working such that you have no advance on the ignition. That happens when the computer sees a problem, like no input from one or more things that are supposed to be connected. For instance, if you don't have the feedback carb on the computer will know it immediately and probably not advance the timing. There is no half-way on the EEC systems. They are either all there and working correctly, or if any input is missing they aren't happy and the timing doesn't advance.

Vic - That is a nice pad, but I think it is for a van instead of a pickup or Bronco. There were only two woodgrain styles used on the F & U-series trucks, Rosewood and Burlwood, and neither looked quite like that one. it will work, but won't match the instrument and radio bezels.

I think that placement of the HEI module makes sense as it'll keep it cooler than in the dizzy would. Those wires may be the worst I've heard of. Having said that, I did part out a truck once that obviously had a bad oil leak on the driver's side. And when I retrieved the DS-II harness I found out why - it had been trapped under the valve cover! Not only was there a substantial leak, but the insulation on the wires was badly damaged.

The height doesn't really matter as it'll be covered with sound deadener, a carpet pad, and then carpet. And it'll be under the console. So it isn't going to be noticeable. As for finding the right thing, I'll ask John as he uses the stuff all the time. And he can tell me where to get it in Tulsa. We are heading in on Monday, so that should work out well. But the pdf on 08115 reads like it is the right stuff.

How 'bout 3M 08115.

That should do it. Are you fitting the HEI module in the dizzy? I'm curious to see how that's done. Can't wait for the results.

Did you see where the turbo was on that truck?... And a 2.75:1 rear diff...I bet that's something you don't see at the drag strip every day;). 12.44 @ 106 is very fast!

And, I have 1" of overlap in many places.

Hmmm, that doesn't seem like what I want then. Do you have a recommendation? I'll text John, my paint/body man and see what he suggests for hanging fenders and bed sides. I really want something that bonds tightly as the seat belt anchors aren't very far away.