Gary Lewis

Jim - Thanks. Jonathan - That's a good tip. I will be doing hydroboost at the same time, so will give that a try. Thanks.

I think I know what you are talking about, but cannot find it in the catalog. Can you take a pic and post it so I'm sure I know?

Shaun just installed the LMC seal, as described here awa in a few later posts. However, if you aren't in search of a new one I think there's one hanging in the shop that came out of Huck, the '90 half-truck. Come by and get it, but not 'til tonight as we are in the big city right now, or tomorrow or on your day off.

I agree. Heat is kryptonite to solid state electronics, so the cooler you can keep it the longer it'll live. I think the fender liner ("apron" in Ford-speak) is a good location, but the fender itself might be slightly better.

Bill - When the time comes, which hopefully won't be too long, I'll be trying to learn from his experience. But, with all the brackets and pump he sent me from the F450 he parted out it should be easy. However, there is the hose issue. He had to cut one and it was probably the wrong one in the first place, so that may take having one made. We shall see.

You may recall that Andrew//IDIBronco recently completed a Saginaw conversion on his IDI-equipped Bronco and described his journey in his IDI Saginaw swap. The Saga begins... thread. But, at the end he summarized it quite well in this well-done post. It was so well done that I thought it deserved to be included on a web page so it can easily be found with a Google search - and things in the forum aren't easily found. So I created a new page: Suspension & Steering/Steering/Saginaw Conversions and put his post on the IDI and V-Belt tabs there. We aren't quite done with it, so it'll be changing a bit as we refine it. But, we wanted to share that it is there in case you are looking for it. Also, note that there are places for many other Saginaw conversions, so I welcome your writeups. In fact, I plan to write up the ones I do for Big Blue and Dad's truck. But, Andrew has now set the bar so we'll have to work some to match it.

I think the catalog is wrong in this case as "ammeter and oil pressure warning lights" does not compute. E5TZ 14A303-A 85 F150/350 — w/dual batteries and/or fog lamps - used w/ammeter and oil pressure warning lights

Recirculate door for an A/C or Hi-Low Vent system: 80/ F-U100/350 — integral EOTZ 18A318-A *YH-362-recirc.-F/A door-located on A/C or Hi-Low vent evaporator port

Not for the F-series trucks: 86/ R (Super Cab) (RH) E6TZ 13602A04-A (LH) E6TZ 13602A05-A

1980/81 F100

Not for our trucks: 82/ E100/350 E2TZ 3513-A

EOTZ 1061726-AA 1 80/84 F100/350.U150 - - w/full width seat 85/F100/350.U150 - - w/full width seat 88/ F(Super Duty) 39 1/8" long Front

Hmmmm, maybe that's what I'm doing wrong! I'll check, but I don't remember these:

One section of the image Steve posted above shows a Teflon seal on the "Tube nut", but that looks like a different set-up that what the regular pumps have... I know on mine, the tube sticks out from the end of the nut and it has an O-Ring on it. There's no Teflon seal...not on the tube nut at least (On my truck). Mine looks like this one above, with an O-ring groove in the end of the tube. No Teflon. This isn't shown on Steve's image above. Unless Steve explains it differently. Cory - That's been my experience as well. But I do see some things in the catalog, which are used in some applications, like this: *384975-S94 (KK-46-F)-"0"-ring (19/32" O.D. x 7/64" thick) Or 387573-S (QQ—67—G)—ring I don't know what those are.

Good job. Nice and neat. On the pics, Nabble doesn't have the code to read the metadata in the pic and rotate it. That has to be done prior to uploading. I use various photo editing software to do that and it work - most of the time on the first try. But sometimes I have to save it multiple times to get it the way it should be.

Maybe they are to let water out? Anyway, glad it didn't leak.

Not bad.

Steve - I'll bet that either of those would work. And if what I've done/will do doesn't get them clean enough then I'll get some of the prep. Thanks. Ray - It isn't so much that it squishes the bushing vertically, but that the top or bottom of the bushing moves laterally so much that the angle that creates parallelograms the bushing. The worst was at the back of the cab where the bushing must be ~4" tall. While the bottom of it is captured in the mount the top is free to slide laterally up against the bolt and then try to ooze around the bolt. That caused a situation where I could just keep tightening the bolt w/o the torque coming up very much, and when I looked I could see the bushings at an angle. In front the bushings aren't nearly as tall, but the bottom bushing was trying to come out from between the cab and the bottom nut/keeper. In fact, it moved so far that there are rings in the bushing where the edge of the keeper dug into the bushing. I'll take a pic and post it later. Pete - I might try brake cleaner, in small amounts, to see if it'll cut the last of the grease that's on there. That's easier than lacquer thinner as that's in a 5 gallon can. But I can do that if needed. However, I don't want to damage the bushings either.

I do find 389349 and 387571 as a seal in some of the power steering parts lists. But they are also listed as an o-ring. I don't find any mention of "Teflon" in that section of the catalog.

No, I didn't over-torque the bolts. I got to 20 lb-ft when the spec is 30 if I remember correctly, and by then the bushings were doing their best to escape. However, I did use a lot of the grease, so maybe that's the issue. But it doesn't come off completely with the cleaners I've used, so I'm sure there's still a film of it left on the metal, if not the bushings. We will find out how it goes when I get to torque the bolts down again, hopefully mid-week.

Interesting that you say "flat lifter cam" and over here we'd say "flat tappet cam". But we use the term "lifter" and I think you use the term "tappet" to describe the things that go up and down to move the push rods, rocker arms, and subsequently the valves. Anyway, a stock distributor should have the right gear for that cam.

I don't know any more than what the master parts catalog tells me, but it is possible that DY-304 is the wrong #.

Hmmmm, that might work. But I'm tempted to run the bushing through the dishwasher. Yes, I have a dishwasher in the shop. Surely the temp wouldn't hurt the bushings if I didn't put it on the HD Pan cycle?

Yes, that is great "engineuity". I figured the wrench was going to be a distributor wrench, but that throttle cable holder is cool. The banjo fitting looks like it is from a Holley so that's good use of it. But, are those connectors just crimped on the ignition system???