Gary Lewis

Jim - Sorry, I missed this. Yes, the nozzle did mix it nicely. And I was told to run 2" of stuff out before installing the nozzle. What it didn't say is that you'd better have a strong grip. I now understand why there is a pneumatic applicator. I broke out in a sweat getting the adhesive in place. As for the hand cleaner, I may give it a try. I have been using Permatex's Grease Grabber, and even bought the dispenser. But the only way it works well is to get a gob of it in the palm of your hand and add a squirt of Dawn. That combo works pretty well. But, for the price I'm not impressed. Thanks, David. I really wanted to document this as I went 'cause I suspect someone else is going to want to put an E4OD in their 4wd Bullnose and I thought they should know one way to solve the floor problem.

That is a GOOD price and decent shipping on a NOS bumper!What I find interesting, that I've never noticed before, is that there are only two bumpers listed for the Flaresides, as shown below and extracted from the Exterior/Bumpers page. (Remember that a Flareside is body style 83 while a Styleside is a 99.) One is chrome and is supposedly only for the 1980 Flaresides, and the other is Black Hi Gloss and is only for the '82 Flaresides. What did all the other Flaresides wear?

Well, they say confession is good for the soul, so here 'tis: I did forget the inner piece on the rear. And that's going to make a big difference in how that tightens down as those bushings will be captive, meaning they can't go anywhere. But, that's not the case in the front. I've checked and I have all of the right pieces there and from the pic below you can see that the bushing slid to the side. These are the lower bushings for the front cab mounts, and what was happening was that the bottoms of the bushings were slipping to the side due to the grease and the top was going the other way. Anyway, when things go together for good I'll have the inner piece in the rear, properly powder coated and with plenty of anti-seize. But, no more silicon grease!

John doesn't have fancy equipment like that. But, he's sure done a lot of body work and knows his stuff. Ok, the floor patch is in place and it looks like the process of snugging the rivets up worked. I started in the center and worked to the ends like torquing a head. And I got some of the goo squeezing out all 'round. But then I went back to the center and made another pass as the rivets there had gotten loose. But after two passes all were snug and I cleaned things up as best I could. Here are some pics for your enjoyment.

Yes, that nozzle should mix it well. And, I now have the gun, have sanded the parts to bare metal and am about to do the deed. HOWEVER, John said my plan to pull the patch down with screws and then swap the screws out for a rivet, one at a time isn't good. I need to leave a little space between the two pieces of metal so there is some of the epoxy between them. Given that, I'm going to run a few of the screws in just to align the patch and then start installing rivets. But, I won't tighten them down much and certainly won't "pop" them until tomorrow after the epoxy has set up. Sound like a good plan?

From what I've read that's an apt description. And I've also read that you shouldn't send your wife or daughter out on a snowy night in a vehicle that has one. As for front height, 2" would be great and 4 might work.

Ooops! Wrong "Ford"! Sorry Steve. I just saw the Ford and didn't read any further.

Missed the afterthought. But, I think I addressed it. If what I've read is right, that you do NOT turn corners under power with it in the front on slick pavement, then that has me worried already. So having the ability to lock it when needed would be nice instead of having it come in when it wants to do so.

First, I'm not sure the right word is "renowned". I think "notorious" is more appropriate. Guilty as charged. As for raising the rear of Big Blue, Jonathan is right. Bringing the front up would be a good thing to take a bit of rake out. But, I'm also going to take some of the leaves out of the pack of seven to try to take some of the brutality out of the suspension. (I think I have the same rear springs as Bill does in his CC DRW F350.) So that may drop it a bit. Anyway, if it really is that easy then maybe. But not on the first go-round. However, let me show my ignorance. The front axle we are talking about is solid - right? And, I see that the D60's did come in 3.54 so that would match. I'd lose my Trutrac diff in the D44, but I'm not sure that having it up front is a good thing - especially given my recent experience with the rear Trutrac kicking in and it walking sideways on wet pavement. So, I could probably put an air or electric locker in and be better off anyway. Hmmmm.....

Yesterday I got all the bits and pieces to put the patch on the floor: SEM 39747 Multi-Purpose Panel Adhesive: This stuff has a 90 minute working time, 4 hour set time, and 24 hour cure time Dominion Sure Seal's Primer/Coating Cold Galvanizing Compound to paint the patch with before installing and after I media-blast it. But, I'll have to tape the mating surface so the adhesive is bonding to bare metal. This was John's recommendation, and provides both corrosion protection as well as "tooth" for the bed liner he will shoot on. Marson 3/16" stainless rivets with a grip range of .062 to .270". So the plan for the day is to go up to John's and borrow the "gun" for the adhesive, come back and blast the patch, mask and paint, and while it is drying strip the paint off the mating surface on the floor. Then I'll mix the adhesive spread it on, run the screws in, and then pull them one at a time, drill the hole to specs, and install the rivets. And then I'll have to clean up the mess! There will probably be adhesive everywhere, so that will take a bit of cleanup.

Used on 1984-88 F-Series trucks but not Broncos.

Yep, 83-86.

Looks to be the right part. But, they aren't technically "correct" for the 1980 trucks as these are E1TZ 1130-A's, which came out in '81 and in '80 they were still using D9TZ 1130-A's. However, the E1's replaced the D9's in '81. I can't tell you what the difference is between them, but it must not have been cosmetic as Ford still used the combo of B on the front and A on the rear of 4wd vehicles through at least '86. And, did you know that these wheel covers existed? Medium Blue and Fawn? They are shown for E-Series as well as F150's from 1982 - 86. F150 ---------4/W/D D9TZ 1130-B 16 1/4" diameter-mag. type-front wheels F100/150 - - 2/W/D E1TZ 1130-A 16 1/4" diameter-mag. type-argent F100/150 - - 2/W/D E1TZ 1130-B 16 1/4" diameter-mag, type-medium blue F100/150 - - 2/W/D E1TZ 1130-C 16 1/4" diameter-mag. type-fawn

Truck: 80/ F-U100/350 - - A/T w/fixed wheel

Interesting! Yes, Janey is used to that. Huck was certainly a mongrel. Wish I had the 1990+ MPC to know how late I can go to get that cross member. May just have to buy one. And, which F350's had the D60?

For the 171 and 177 cubic inch engines - in the little trucks.

Maybe I'd better get things going first, with the EFI, ZF5, hydroboost, 3G, cross member swap, etc before I take that on.

E3TZ 10422B68-B 82/ F100/350 - - w/sliding back window 88/ (Super Duty) Since it is for 1982 and later, I'll bet it is for your truck as well.

WAIT! I don't think you understand Ford's numbering scheme. 422B68 is the basic part number, but it needs a prefix, like E8TZ, and a suffix, like A. Let me see..... Input mode kicking in!

I'm more worried about moisture in the air hanging out in the gaps, but only time will tell. Just spent the last two hours going through the MPC looking for the differences in shift boots and shift levers. Very disappointing research since there's only three boots listed for 1980-1983, one T-Case and one transmission, and one dual boot for those wacky SROD/4x4 trucks and Broncos. I have what I believe to be E0TZ-7277-A (Manual Trans Warner/NP) in my possession, however my stainless trim ring (E0TZ-1013100-A) doesn't fit the boot the way that my 1980 brochure and numerous saved pictures say that it should. I guess I'll have to see what happens when I put the vinyl floor in the truck. Bob - That's a cool story. I knew some people who were into kart racing and the B&S engines. I was fascinated with the science involved. Those things ran like banshees. Shaun - What are the part numbers of the boots you found? I can climb the microfiche tower tomorrow and see if the '82 version has the earlier #'s.

That is well done, for sure. And that Buick/Rover V8 should make it scoot. I always liked that engine. Or, at least the idea thereof as I've never had one.

Hmmmm, how hard is that to do? (Not the cross member, that's a given.) D60 from?

The spring is about 60% of the way to the center of the tire, so my 2" was an exaggeration. It's really more like 1 5/8". But the point is that it's not quite as bad as it looks. And my '97 F-250 also has about 1" up-travel at the bump-stops. And I wonder why Big Blue rides so poorly?

It is apparently a complex issue. Here's the illustration of what I suspect is your back glass, as "83/" means it is from 1983 to the end of the catalog, which was 1989. So, which parts?

That 7C431 let me find it in the illustrations, as shown below. And then the "7341" in the illustration led me to D5AZ 7341-A in the C6 section. So I did a search for that and found some hits. However some, like NPD's, are closed and don't look to be the right one. But this one on ebay looks to be the right one.