Gary Lewis

I forgot to say that Shannon from Stinger got back to me with this: Which makes the decision to go with Core Tuning easy.

Yes, that looks to be what they've done - Megasquirt in an EEC-IV box. And, that has some merit, especially given the additional capabilities it has. However, it still doesn't have OBD-II, and I really think I need that so the trucks can be maintained. So, I just had a 45 minute conversation with Adam from Core Tuning and wound up buying their Direct Flash package, which includes: This lets me directly flash the ECU with the engine off, but if I decide later that I want to be able to do it while driving then I can add the Quarter Horse for another $250. However, Adam didn't think I'd need that. Anyway, I'll pick this up over on the Big Blue thread later today. But I'm glad you posted about the Stinger option as it got me to doing something.

Not for our trucks: E5TZ 6068-G 85/87 R — 4/W/D exc. Super Cab 88/ R — M/T exc. Super Cab 1

I wouldn't sweat the gear ratio too much. If you are planning on putting a locker in it you'll be pulling the ring gear out anyway. It's not a ton more work or expense to put a new ring and pinion in (but sure, get the 3.54 of you can find it)Good point. So here's my thinking of priorities: Cross Member: I have to have that, so if I can't find a whole truck that has it as well as the axle and suspension then I'll try to buy just a cross member.Front Axle/Suspension: If I can find a truck with the right cross member and the D60 front axle, regardless of king pin/ball joint or F350/SuperDuty spring I'll go with that.Ratio: I want a 3.54 if possible. Springs: If the truck has the SD springs then that's even better.Does that make sense?

The manual transmission boot is E0TZ-7277-A The transfer case boot is E0TZ-7277-E The problem I'm having is that the trim ring just seems to be too small and the boot covers most of it. In the pictures I have, the trim ring is clearly visible and the boot doesn't cover it at all. The 80-82(11/81) boots only have four folds like I thought. In the below photo, only two folds are through the boot, and you can see that they already fill the opening of the trim ring. In the below photo, it's pretty clear that the trim ring is not obstructed by the boot in any way. Shaun - Here's what I found in the '82 version of the MPC. Sorry for the poor quality, but it is the best I can do. Notice that the '82 MPC conflicts with the '94 version, below, in that the '82 says the trim rings were used for 1980 pickups and Broncos only. But the '94 version says the round one was also used on 1981 and '82 Broncos. I wonder which is right? Did the '94 correct an omission in the '82?

Yep.

Big Blue's front wheel well opening is ~36" and the rear is 39 3/4" off the ground. But I plan to take leaves out of the rear, so it'll come down some. I wonder how much?

The main issue with Big Blue is the cross member, and it must be replaced. So the suggestion has been to source a whole truck with both the cross member and the front suspension - and the correct 3.54 axle ratio. But, if that proves to be like finding a 1996 460 with SEFI and MAF, then I might turn to piecing it out. What I'm really leery of is getting a cross member that has already been removed. But I won't know how it was removed and, therefore, if the holes have been enlarged or a torch used. So I want to remove the cross member myself. Which sounds like I need at least a section of the frame or a whole truck.

Is Clint the one in OKC? Anyway, here's what I just sent "them" via FB Messenger:

I will, but I want to know what the catalog says will work before I do. Does that make sense?

Exactly. As was previously said, there is no real benefit to king pins versus ball joints. There are people who prefer kingpins, and those who prefer ball joints. If you were rock crawling with this axle, kingpins all day long. But for what you're intending to do, ball joints are fine. Your biggest issue with a ball joint axle is that it will cost you slightly more since you will have to buy new calipers. With the kingpin axle, you can keep your current calipers, provided they are the dual piston. Otherwise, the axles are the same. Just watch the rot on the passenger side u-bolt plate. Mine seems to be solid, but I still don't trust it. I'll probably end up with either a u-bolt flip, or welding on the replacement plate/panhard mount that Sky sells. Pitting is a real issue on axles from up north. You'll have to check the MPC on the crossmember. Overall I'm sure it's the same, but there's probably an extra hole here, one less hole there, etc. Bill - I don't mind the height at all, so welcome the 2 - 4" of lift this is likely to give BB. Shaun - That's the problem with the MPC. They change the part number, which means there is SOME difference in the part, but there is no way to tell what the difference is, nor whether it will interchange in spite of the difference. But, I'll check out the part number about this time next week when I get the new MPC. As for the king pin vs ball joint debate, I'm guessing that and the brake caliper question will be decided for me when/if I find a donor. I'll take whatever it has. And, toward that end, Craigslist doesn't show anything in a 200 mile radius from me that will work. The only thing I've found is a running '93 F350 DRW for $3200. But, it isn't 4wd. So, the search continues.

Have you seen Milwaukee's 12V & 18V tools? This is JUST the 18s: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Innovations/M18 Heat gun, 10-ton knockout, table & chop saws, magnetic drill, LED tower lights, jaws of life... Wow! I'm locked into Ridgid, but that is an amazing range of tools. I talked with the manager of Direct Tools in Branson about the range of Ridgid vs Ryobi vs Milwaukee. His opinion was that Ryobi has the most diverse range, but that Milwaukee is coming on strong. However, Ridgid seems to be focused on the "construction" tools, like drills, saws, impacts, etc. Ryobi has gone into the 40v tools as well, and my brother has a leaf blower and a weed eater from them. He's relegated his Stihl blower and weed eater to his cabin where he really can use the extra power of the gas engines, but he seems to be happy with the Ryobi tools for his house in town. And his wife uses the blower frequently to blow off the back porch - something she never did with the Stihl. Battery-powered tools have really turned the corner.

Bill - Don't get me wrong, I like the idea of having a "factory" system that will surely be easier to support that an aftermarket system. However, what I don't look forward to is working with Core Tuning.My birthday is coming up in almost exactly a month, and my wife has asked what I want. Over a year ago I was planning on getting the Core Tuning package for my birthday, but despite having several telephone calls and emails with the guys that never happened. We'd nailed down what I need to Direct Flash, if I remember correctly, but then things fell apart when I wanted to add a wideband AFR. In an email and a telephone call Adam recommended the Dynocom AFR. But in a call with Ben I mentioned what Adam recommended and he said "He WHAT?! We stock the Innovate! Why isn't he selling the ones we carry?" On 5/18/2018 I replied to Adam via email, and cc'd Ben, trying to clear up the wideband issue. But I never heard back from them. I was ready to order, but they completely dropped the ball. So here I am a year later and finally about ready to jump into the project and yet I'm reluctant to get involved with Core Tuning. And along comes what may be another option - Stinger. So I wrote Stinger and said:

These days there are probably battery-powered ones. Was in a tool store recently and it was amazing what Ryobi has in those tools. Even a battery-powered grease gun. But apparently Ridgid isn't into developing such a wide range of tools. In fact, they haven't even gotten into the 40v tools where the serious power is, like weed eaters and chain saws.

Yes, the turning radius is "improved". But the rear is way too stiff. Right now, with the sway bars disconnected, the front is rough and the rear is ROUGH! So I need to take some leaves out of the springs. Guess I'd better measure to see what the height difference is right now. I'll be back - after two cups of coffee!

Interesting! That is making me re-think my plans to use Core Tuning to program the EEC-V box. I wonder if they, Stinger, have a similar product for EEC-V replacement? I'm going to ask.

I saw the bit about trimming the bumper and also assumed that is where they accommodate the longer SD spring. But, I'm thinking that with the Warn winch bumper I won't have to make any changes to it. As for height, I forgot the 2" for going to an F350 from a 250. Sure going to need the grab handles inside.

Thanks. Reading that helped my understanding a bit. And 2" of lift, coupled with dropping the rear about the same would make the truck look better - and ride dramatically better.

The number on this part is not a part number but an engineering or ID number. If anyone is interested in it I can cross-reference that number to a part number and determine its application, but it takes time so I won't unless you are.

That listing has ended, but the part fits: E3TZ 7513—C 80/83 F100/350 (4 x 2) - - 6&8 cyl.300, 302 81/83 F100/350-U150 255,230,351W 81/83 E100/150

Yep, same dash that came from the old cab. I wanted to use SEM, but at nearly $20 a can, I can't justify spending that kind of money on an entire interior refinish. I was originally going to coat the back of everything with the Duplicolor Vinyl Flat Black and then use SEM on the face of everything, however when I realized the Duplicolor Flat Black was a close match, I decided to just spray everything with the Duplicolor product. At $7 a can, it fits the "budget build" mentality a little more than SEM. I previously used the Duplicolor paint on my F150, specifically the vinyl trim above the arm rests and a couple of other small pieces with great results. Shaun - I understand. But I know SEM works and don't want to have to do it again, so I'll pay the extra. Anyway, your interior looks great! Well done!

Bill - I don't want to have to engineer anything, so expect to be going with leaf springs. But, the D60/SD/RSK approach sounds quite interesting. As for the deck heights, I'll refer back to your post when I get the engine out and apart. Jim - Do you have guestimates for the ride height increases for what I think you folks have said the options are, like these: F350 stock springs F350 springs and RSK SuperDuty springs SuperDuty with RSK

I have a Craftsman HD rivet puller. When I got my first blast cabinet, an Eastwood, it used pop rivets to hold it together. But those were serious rivets and my little puller wouldn't do it. Hence the HD one But it took everything I had today to pop those rivets. Those rivets are in Fastenal's "structural" rivet catalog, and are even more "serious" than the ones used on the blast cabinet. I'm convinced that patch is going nowhere.

In this house & shop, I mounted all the soap dispensers over the sinks so the drips either go in, or fall on the tray to be soaked into the sponge or brush for later use. I have a wall-mount hand-cleaner dispenser, but those bottles are too expensive, so I didn't mount it here. I use a fastorange pump jug or a big bucket of Gojo/Goop/etc. Got the rivets "popped" and then the patch primed today. And, tightening/popping the rivets didn't move the patch whatsoever. In fact, I think the floor is now slightly stronger since it has the 1" overlap around the patch, with both adhesive and the rivets holding things in place. Here are some pics, starting with before painting and then after painting. And here's the patch from above, after painting: Last, here's the clearance, although before I torque the body mounts down. There's probably 1 1/4" there, although it is really hard to measure.

Should go like this: 1986 was the first year for the D60, but only on the F350. That carried all the way until 1997. F250's still had a TTB D44HD or D50 all the way until 1997. In 1995, when the F150 and Bronco switched to bolt on brake calipers, that's when the D60 did as well. But it also gained ball joints, so 1985-1994 D60's have Kingpins, 1995-1997 have balljoints. Shaun - Good to know. So, any 1986 to '94 4wd F350 w/a 460 or diesel would give me both the cross member and the suspension with king pins, and from '95-'97 would give me the same but with ball joints. Right? But, is there much reason to prefer either ball joints or king pins? And, do we know that the cross member stayed the same for all those years, or is that something I'll determine with the MPC?