Gary Lewis

I don't believe that is what the label says. I have one of those units laying on the work table and it is NOT round like that.

Good price.

Is this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/73-79-Ford-Truck-78-79-Bronco-4-Speed-Manual-Transmission-shifter-boot-Trim-Ring/173873206233?hash=item287ba693d9:g:oYAAAOSwomJasWG5 Probably. Almost certainly. The part number, D8, says it came out in '78 so if that part is correct for '73 - '77 trucks it isn't the right one. However, I'm pretty sure that the statement on eBay of "73-79 Ford Truck 78 79 Bronco" is incorrect. Here's the entry from the 1973-79 MPC, and you can see that there was no trim ring until '78.

Jim - Sorry, I'd not responded to this post. I don't have an Android device, but Steve does and maybe he and I can work through the Youtube thing. I know on my iPhone that I get different options depending on what I've done to get to that point, so maybe that is true of the Android? Having said that, I haven't figured out why the differences on the iPhone. So maybe I need to get my head around that before tackling the Android.

Good tip. But you might want to go back over the headers with your steel wool before painting. My experience with rags or paper towels to clean parts is that they leave fibers sticking to the metal that then stick up during the paint job. I don't know how I miss them, but the paint seems to make them stand to attention.

I think very few of us will have experience with both RedHead and Blue Top. My experience is with RH, and even that isn't complete as Dad's truck isn't in the road yet, so I don't know how much difference the true bearing in the bottom makes over stock. However, the box is very tight and there's essentially no slack when I turn the input shaft back and forth by hand using the rag joint I installed to give me some leverage. And, I would expect the same from a Blue Top box as they are said to be built the same way. But my comment about the top of the Blue Top box not being scarred comes from the lack of care that was used to assemble my RedHead box. They nicely painted the top and then someone who didn't care about attention to detail allowed the wrench or socket he was using to tighten the retaining bolts to lay down against the top of the box, and that took the paint off around the bolt heads. Someone may think "that's picky", but I think it shows a disregard for details. And if they would do that on the outside what did they do on the inside? Compare Mark's pic to mine:

Ok, I want to type this myself as I think that will help me retain it. I'm looking for an F350 4wd truck with either a 460 or a diesel in the: '86 to '91 range, which will have kingpins Or the '92-'97 range, which will have ball joints and bolt on calipers But, why not '83 - '85 F350's? The 460 and diesel came out in '83 and would have the right cross member, but did it not have the D60 axle as well? And the better-riding springs?

Wow! That is a whole lot of truck, and in immaculate shape, for $3800.

Welcome! Glad you joined. And, while I'll say "Good to meet you", I think we've already met. Right? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. Pics of the truck would be great! And, you can certainly do that here in this folder. But, if you are starting a thread to keep track of what you've done or ask questions about what you are doing, the best place is in the main section. It gets more traffic and that's where people look for that kind of thing. Again, welcome!

Ok, got it. But, where does the 18V come from? Does the cable they supply derive it via a flying capacitor arrangement?

Excellent! And, the blue top is pristine, w/o the scored paint of my RedHead.

That makes sense to me. Thanks for boiling it down for me. Even I can understand that.

Yes, the round one should have shown up in '78. And since it was either used for 3 or 5 years then it would be scarce, for sure. Then factor in that the vans rarely came with manuals, and they may be unicorns.

Bill - I've updated the spreadsheet to capture your comments. But, I assume for test purposes that all the grounds can be tied together and go back to the power source. And, that the two VPWR leads can be tied together as well. Also, do I have the connections to the data link connector figured out correctly? I'm assuming that the cable I get from Core Tuning will connect to the DLC - right? And that the computer program, Binary Editor, will read the ECU over the two data link wires and then program the ECU by flashing the PCM wire. Correct? Are there instructions with the kit I'm getting from Core Tuning?

I've removed the C6 indicator. I did pull the cluster to do it, but I'm not sure it is necessary.

SD springs stands for 99-04 Super Duty, as in 1999-2004 F350. You're not gonna find a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed. Should be pretty obvious if you come across that. What if one of us happens to come across an axle that is out of your 200 mile range? Are you willing to travel?I don't understand what you mean about not finding a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed. But, I think what you are saying is that by '99 the cross member won't be what I need, so I'll be looking for an earlier truck, which isn't likely to have those springs. Am I right?As for an axle, if it an axle and springs, meaning everything I need save for the cross member, then I'd seriously consider hooking up the trailer and heading out - depending on the price. But, I don't want to be hasty as I really haven't started looking here yet. So it would depend on price, content, and timing.Does that make sense?

I'm trying to get my head around your test harness and the Pin-Outs tab on the Electrical/Electronic Engine Control page. Toward that end I've put together this spreadsheet.Does it make sense? Can you answer the questions, please?

OK. I told Adam that I'm going to document the goody out of this, and he was pleased. (He has no clue what I mean by that. ) In any event, as I work out what various things mean I'm hoping to capture them and, when it is done, to pull it all together in a document that will reside some where on the web site so others have an easier time of getting their heads around this.

Yes, you did. But, you mean the GIN3 box. (Man, you have me worried! You are now 2 years older than I am, and look what those two years do to a man! )

Pretty! And no need for high-temp paint.

As long as we have the calibrations or strategies then we'd be ok - right? By the way, I don't understand what a calibration or a strategy is. I'm assuming that a calibration is the set of parameters that are in the tables that the computer uses to determine how much ignition timing to apply or how long to hold an injector open.

Bill - I don't think I need a bench flash setup as I have this one:

Good idea, Bill. But, I called back to the one I went to last week and they said their's doesn't cover cross members.

Yes, it isn't a bad price. But, for about that you can make one that is better.

Time for another update on this quest as I just ordered the Core Tuning kit and the Innovate wide-band. I had a good, 45-minute call with Adam of Core Tuning. And we worked through what I'm doing as well as what I need. On their end he recommended this package: If later I decide I want to change parameters as I drive I can add the Quarterhorse cable for $250. But he doesn't think I'll need it. As for the wide-band AFR meter, he recommended the Innovate MTX-L, and since they don't sell it I ordered it from Summit. Plus I need a serial-to-USB converter, preferably one based on the Prolific chip, in order to interface the Innovate to my computer. So I ordered this one from Amazon. The next step is to get my head around the software, and Adam strongly encouraged me to call him and he would remote-in to my computer and walk me through it. And, he suggested that I send him pics of the ECU's I have so he can make sure I have what I need, which I'll do in a bit. Anyway, I'm getting the next project lined up.