Gary Lewis

Shaun - I like the list as it helps me get my head around it. However, I was trying to understand what Jim was saying about not getting a Bullnose. So I turned to the Application listing, shown below. And then I looked at the cross-reference guide and found that all of those outlined in red are D60's. But, those shown as 30.4S and 30.4T are D50's. So, does that say that some 1985's and all 1986's have a solid axle D60? And, what is the "monobeam"?

Did quite a bit of running around today, but did manage to get one thing done towards EFI for Big Blue - found a "data link connector", aka OBD-II connector. Turns out that's not the easiest thing to find. Went to all three auto parts stores in town - nada. Finally called my friends at the salvage near here and they pulled the one below for me from an Aerostar, which means the wires are the right color. In fact, comparing it to the one shown in the '96 EVTM, this one has all the right wires and an extra to boot. I'm hoping tomorrow to marry the test harness Bill sent me with this connector, add a couple of switches for vehicle and keep-alive power, and it'll be ready for when I get the package from Core Tuning.

Sorry, I missed this. And, I see why you are confused. Yes, they are input and output shaft. I'm seeing the output shaft seal as C4AZ 7D011-A. But, I do not see an "input shaft seal" as such. Instead, it looks like C6AZ 7D025-A SEAL (INTERMEDIATE BRAKE DRUM) is the farthest forward seal. So, I am confused as well. I've never had a C6 apart, so I am no where near an authority on this. We need someone else to weigh in.

As I said, I haven't done the installation of that kit, but I have it and it does look complete. As for the in-tank pump, the tank has the large opening so can accommodate that pump. But, there were sending units that fit that tank and don't have a pump with them. I'm just about to launch into the transformation of Big Blue to EFI, and in doing so I'll be using that tank and will write up what I find. And, while I am planning on keeping the mid-ship tank as well, I'll be using the later fuel delivery modules in the tank, which have the sending unit, pump, and valves. So mine will be different than yours.

'80 - '85 F-350s had the same Dana 50 TTB as many F-250HDs (some F-250HDs had the Dana 44HD TTB). So you probably could get the crossmember, but not the axle or suspension you want. Ahh! Got it! (Got it, got it, ain’t got it. 😩)

I got my gauges at a very nice price.

81/84 U150 — w/o aux. heater E1TZ 18C621-A Includes bracket

I'll show you one in Sept. And a few more gauges in their protective packaging as well.

Correct part for trucks with amber turn signals. See here for an explanation of when that was: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/door-locks.html

I don't believe that is what the label says. I have one of those units laying on the work table and it is NOT round like that.

Good price.

Is this one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/73-79-Ford-Truck-78-79-Bronco-4-Speed-Manual-Transmission-shifter-boot-Trim-Ring/173873206233?hash=item287ba693d9:g:oYAAAOSwomJasWG5 Probably. Almost certainly. The part number, D8, says it came out in '78 so if that part is correct for '73 - '77 trucks it isn't the right one. However, I'm pretty sure that the statement on eBay of "73-79 Ford Truck 78 79 Bronco" is incorrect. Here's the entry from the 1973-79 MPC, and you can see that there was no trim ring until '78.

Jim - Sorry, I'd not responded to this post. I don't have an Android device, but Steve does and maybe he and I can work through the Youtube thing. I know on my iPhone that I get different options depending on what I've done to get to that point, so maybe that is true of the Android? Having said that, I haven't figured out why the differences on the iPhone. So maybe I need to get my head around that before tackling the Android.

Good tip. But you might want to go back over the headers with your steel wool before painting. My experience with rags or paper towels to clean parts is that they leave fibers sticking to the metal that then stick up during the paint job. I don't know how I miss them, but the paint seems to make them stand to attention.

I think very few of us will have experience with both RedHead and Blue Top. My experience is with RH, and even that isn't complete as Dad's truck isn't in the road yet, so I don't know how much difference the true bearing in the bottom makes over stock. However, the box is very tight and there's essentially no slack when I turn the input shaft back and forth by hand using the rag joint I installed to give me some leverage. And, I would expect the same from a Blue Top box as they are said to be built the same way. But my comment about the top of the Blue Top box not being scarred comes from the lack of care that was used to assemble my RedHead box. They nicely painted the top and then someone who didn't care about attention to detail allowed the wrench or socket he was using to tighten the retaining bolts to lay down against the top of the box, and that took the paint off around the bolt heads. Someone may think "that's picky", but I think it shows a disregard for details. And if they would do that on the outside what did they do on the inside? Compare Mark's pic to mine:

Ok, I want to type this myself as I think that will help me retain it. I'm looking for an F350 4wd truck with either a 460 or a diesel in the: '86 to '91 range, which will have kingpins Or the '92-'97 range, which will have ball joints and bolt on calipers But, why not '83 - '85 F350's? The 460 and diesel came out in '83 and would have the right cross member, but did it not have the D60 axle as well? And the better-riding springs?

Wow! That is a whole lot of truck, and in immaculate shape, for $3800.

Welcome! Glad you joined. And, while I'll say "Good to meet you", I think we've already met. Right? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you'd like. Pics of the truck would be great! And, you can certainly do that here in this folder. But, if you are starting a thread to keep track of what you've done or ask questions about what you are doing, the best place is in the main section. It gets more traffic and that's where people look for that kind of thing. Again, welcome!

Ok, got it. But, where does the 18V come from? Does the cable they supply derive it via a flying capacitor arrangement?

Excellent! And, the blue top is pristine, w/o the scored paint of my RedHead.

That makes sense to me. Thanks for boiling it down for me. Even I can understand that.

Yes, the round one should have shown up in '78. And since it was either used for 3 or 5 years then it would be scarce, for sure. Then factor in that the vans rarely came with manuals, and they may be unicorns.

Bill - I've updated the spreadsheet to capture your comments. But, I assume for test purposes that all the grounds can be tied together and go back to the power source. And, that the two VPWR leads can be tied together as well. Also, do I have the connections to the data link connector figured out correctly? I'm assuming that the cable I get from Core Tuning will connect to the DLC - right? And that the computer program, Binary Editor, will read the ECU over the two data link wires and then program the ECU by flashing the PCM wire. Correct? Are there instructions with the kit I'm getting from Core Tuning?

I've removed the C6 indicator. I did pull the cluster to do it, but I'm not sure it is necessary.

SD springs stands for 99-04 Super Duty, as in 1999-2004 F350. You're not gonna find a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed. Should be pretty obvious if you come across that. What if one of us happens to come across an axle that is out of your 200 mile range? Are you willing to travel?I don't understand what you mean about not finding a truck with those already installed unless you buy a truck that has an RSK installed. But, I think what you are saying is that by '99 the cross member won't be what I need, so I'll be looking for an earlier truck, which isn't likely to have those springs. Am I right?As for an axle, if it an axle and springs, meaning everything I need save for the cross member, then I'd seriously consider hooking up the trailer and heading out - depending on the price. But, I don't want to be hasty as I really haven't started looking here yet. So it would depend on price, content, and timing.Does that make sense?