Gary Lewis

Congrat's!

Bummer! Ok, the "inside of the frame" is actually the "frame liner" in Ford-speak. And, it is replaceable, as outlined here: TSB's/Brakes Steering/Suspension/Wheels/Steering Gear Frame Liner. I found one NOS for Big Blue, although I don't yet know if I'll have to use it. But, the liner was certainly cracked on Dad's truck and the Huck fastener was rattly-loose. If you go to the first post in Dad's Truck Build thread, go down to the document, and then go to Page 12 you'll see a discussion of that. And, there are links in there to what I actually did, which was written up on FTE. And while that isn't the recommended way to fix it, I think it will work. "Will" as the truck is not yet back in service.

This thread will be to chronicle the transformation of Big Blue from a rough-riding truck with an engine that leaks like a sieve into one that is comfortable to ride in and is outfitted for overlanding.The document below attempts to summarize this rather lengthy thread, but if you want to find specifics just use the search function above and to the right to find details. And this is his "spec card" that is used at shows: Next up is the list of parts so he can be maintained: And now for the electrical schematics: And then the pinouts to the ECU: And now the wiring for the Code Alarm CA115E alarm system:

Yes, you did! Now I do remember. And I wish you luck on dealing with the renter. That can be both trying as well as a legal problem.

I have a toolbox in the back of my Ranger, and with the tailgate down, I was able to fit my D60 in the back with no overhang, but it had to be angled in the bed. However, that was also an SRW axle, a DRW axle will be longer and I would probably bring a trailer for that. Good to know, thanks. I got the trailer out yesterday as it hasn't rained for 3 days so the ground was hard enough I didn't leave ruts. But we are to have two rounds of storms today and then several more during the coming week. I wanted to be ready in case I find "the right thing". I say "the right thing" because I don't know if it is an axle, and axle with springs and panhard rod, or a whole truck. Anyway, I'm now ready.

Sorry for the delayed response. On the choke, I don't see a spot on the exhaust manifold for a hot air line to the choke. So it is possible that yours had an all-electric choke. I have some info on chokes here, but there were three styles, and all-electric was one. I believe that the all-electric chokes had a 12v heater in the black cap instead of the 6 volt heater. And the wiring would be different. So can you check the cap and see what it says on the passenger's side? If it is an all-electric choke it is possible that there's no power to it. Also, the electric assist chokes had a connection on them for the hot air line attachment. Does yours? Maybe show us a close up pic of the choke? As for the water, that isn't too unusual. What seal did you put on? The aftermarket ones leave a lot to be desired. The thing you have circled in red isn't your fuel filter. The filter is immediately to the left, or passenger's side. The thing in red may be part of the emissions system as it looks like it has a vacuum line attached, so shouldn't have fuel in it. And the thing to the right in the pic is the accelerator pump, which is known to leak. And the parking brake cable should not be that loose. Mine are slightly less than taut, and no where near loose enough to slap.

I think the doors are rust free, but haven't looked that closely. See you soon.

Jim - You've been a big help, as have all the others. And yes, we are off on another adventure. And, we will document it to the hilt. And maybe turn that into a web page how-to. Shaun - Not to worry, I'm keeping that one as a "possible". But, if I want to do it I'll see if they'll take quite a bit off if I come to get it. They are only a bit less then 200 miles away, and if they have a crate it would probably slide in the back of my new truck with the dinky 5 1/2' bed with the 'gate down. If they don't have it crated I can take the trailer.

It does look far better. And I'll look forward to seeing you in June. Text me before you come to make sure we'll be home. I met your Holly so maybe you can meet mine.

Chad - Jim/ArdWrknTrk says "Progress is good!" And it doesn't have to be lots of progress. Two steps forward and one back is still going in the right direction. On the frame, I fear it is cracked as that wasn't uncommon. Dad's truck's frame was cracked there. Check out this TSB on it: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/97-03-10-frame-creakingpopping.html On the carb's throttle shaft, look to see if the throttle plates are binding. If they've been removed and replaced they might be in a position where they bind in the carb's bore and then the throttle will be hard to open. If so, you might be able to loosen the screws holding the throttle plates to the throttle shaft and re-position them so they don't bind. But be careful as the screws should be staked on the back side and the heads will break off if you go very far. As for the power steering, can you use Teflon tape on the threads?

Wow! I now see the reason for the name. And, that bricknose egg was more than cracked. I was smushed. But I'm jealous as I'm looking for the same axle to replace my D44HD TTB's. Anyway, well done! Can't wait for the completed pics.

Grumpin - It probably is a typo. Jim - You've been a huge help. I knew nothing about D44HD's vs D50's vs D60's before we descended into the rabbit hole. But with everyone's help on here I know enough to be dangerous. However, I'm confident that all of y'all will help me through it when the time comes. Here come's another microanalysis!

That is addressed here: Interior/Seat Interchangeability. Does that answer your question?

The seller has just come back and said "WE JUST INCLUDE THE PICS OF THE WHOLE TRUCK TO GIVE YOU A BETTER PIC OF WHAT KIND OF VEHICLE IT IS. WE ARE ONLY SELLING THE AXLE" (All upper case is theirs.) So, given that is is just the axle, which is the wrong ratio and extended hubs - and $1050 to boot - I'll pass. At least for now. Let's see what other options there are, especially to get all the other bits.

Having re-looked at the cert label, the code is an "H": But H doesn't compute as it only shows for '85. And this thing has HEAVY front springs!

See, I'm learning! Ok, good to know. And, that's what I was guessing, but wasn't sure. But buying this F350 would be a big undertaking as it is COMPLETE. Lots and lots of stuff to get rid of. One approach would be to put it in the shop on the lift and drop the engine, tranny, t-case etc out, get the front axle and associated bits off, and then pull the cross member. Back the trailer under it and haul the carcass to the scraper. That leaves me with yet another FI'd 460. But I'd also have the right t-case and front drive shaft. Also, can that really be the Mazda tranny? Wouldn't it be a ZF5?

I do absolutely dislike the ride. And given the lack of articulation in the front end, this thing won't do very well off road - and be painful doing it. So, I eagerly followed you down the rabbit hole. Maybe something will come of this, and maybe not. But one thing I've learned about me is that I like to learn, and this has been a learning exercise, for sure. To quote the book: So now I have a bit of knowledge about axles, springs, SAS's, etc. Perhaps I will use it on Big Blue, but maybe not. In any case, I'm not hurt a bit.

Ahhh! Dawn. Marble Head. Got it. I agree that a wrecked 350 is the best of all worlds. Shaun put me onto what MAY be an '89 350 flatbed dually for sale. It is on ebay, but the listing's heading is about the front axle, while the pics are of the truck itself. So I need to understand if they are selling the truck or just the axle. I've sent them an email to understand. However, here's what I can decode from the certification label: - Model code K = 1989 - F384: 11,000# GVWR C&C - Engine code G = 460 - Trans code M = 5 speed OD, and supposedly the Mazda R2??? - Axle code 65 = 4.10 Ford Would the hubs on a C&C be the extended ones?

I still wouldn't blame the grease - it can only ALLOW movement; it can't CAUSE it. I'd take a closer look at the frame & sheet metal. I bet at least one of them is twisted, causing the uneven forces that are moving the bushings. Even without grease, over time, they'll eventually migrate to where they want to settle. The grease just let that happen faster. Yesterday I was about to bolt the cab back on Dad's truck so went to the factory shop manual's Body section to get the torque spec's for the bushing retainers. And on the same page I found this:

Come on by! Gonna be busy around here then as Holly just called and they get here from Nica on the 9th. So I'll be playing with the grandtwins, but I look forward to seeing you and talking "shop". I have the cross member pucks, but the retainers still haven't loosened, so you should take the whole cross member and not chance tearing things up getting them off. And, I have some doors, but dunno about good regulators. Anyway, you are welcome to a pair if you want to take them off.

I've never used one. But I've not used a helper either. Instead I've used a floor jack, with padding, to gently raise or lower the door for adjustment.

Shaun - I'm running the Warn bumper. I might change at some point but it isn't going to be to a stock bumper as I have the winch. And if I change it'll be one I design, which will take into account the spring mounts. But thanks for the Warn-ing. Jim - Is that the bracket for the panhard bar? And are you saying I need to get a cross member from a 350? Or, I think you may be saying that if I get the cross member from a 4wd 350 it'll have the bracket. And if not I can buy it from Ford or aftermarket. Ok, I think I see a plan emerging from the fog. I have feelers out everywhere, but unless one of them hits pay dirt with a whole truck or at least every component I need, then I'll: Get the cross member from the local salvage Pick up a D60 axle and tie rods Buy F350 SuperDuty springs for a D60, and I think I have a pair located at the same salvage as the cross member Buy the Sky SuperDuty kit Add the bracket if the cross member doesn't have it. Buy a drop pitman arm Does that sound like a decent plan?

I, too, see a picture of Zombie. Well done! So what makes it qualify for the name?

Dave - I'll have to check when the change was made in the grounds, but I'm pretty sure it was for '85. Prior to that there was a ground wire in the tail light opening. After that the grounds were collected into one wire that went all the way back into the cab.

Well done! I like it, although I do have the tool box in the bed.