Gary Lewis

Looks good, Kevin! And that one build sheet looks to be very intact. So how much quieter is it with the sound deadening in?

There's a big difference between "big" and the axle's gear ratio. But there are other issues involved. First, you've not introduced yourself and don't have a signature, so we don't know enough about your truck to answer the question. I say that because there were two different wheel bolt patterns used on the F100's: 4 1/2" and 5 1/2" bolt circle. So if you have the smaller bolt circle wheels and we recommend a heavier rear axle you'll have to carry two spares. Having said that, if you just want a different gear ratio that can be done with whatever axle you have. But if you want an axle with a heavier load rating then the first question is why? If you don't upgrade the springs at the same time you still have a weak link and are really wasting your time. So, as said in the email, please go the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread there to introduce yourself and your truck. Or, after reading the guidelines, you can introduce yourself here and tell us what you are going to do with the truck, which helps us answer your question. Speaking of which, a signature that tells us about your truck helps us help you w/o asking lots of questions each time, so is strongly encouraged. Then we can address the rear axle issues when we understand what you have and what you want to do with the truck.

Yes, I'd come to the same conclusion - the ones I have are 2030 capacity. And Big Blue's springs are code 7, which are 2755's. Here's the ATS table, and it gives the info on thickness. It looks like to get comparable springs I need either the 43-812HD's (2780#'s) or the Code X springs (2630#'s). At least I have something to look for now. I'll get with Brent at the salvage and have him look for those springs. But, what are the thoughts about which ones to look for?

I called Brent and he checked - these springs came off of a 2003 F250 w/a V8, which he says would be the same as for an F350. But, if they won't work he's happy to exhange. These measure: 54 1/2" c/c on the eyes 57" to the outside of the main spring, as shown below ID of the inner sleeves is .64" on one end and .68" on the other. Since 16mm = .63" and 18mm = .71" that seems about right for the bolts. 3" wide 2-leaf pack

My email to them said: One of my concerns in this is that the SD springs I got are from an '06. But Sky's site says that their kit "Adapts the much better riding 99-04 Superduty Springs". And in another spot it says "Springs: 56" 99-04 Superduty Front Springs". So I'm concerned that maybe I have the wrong springs. I'll see what they say about things, inc the springs. But, I'll also measure the springs I got to see how long they are compared to that 56" spec. As for the track bar, I can easily see the need for a longer one - if the height changes so will the diagonal. And I agree that I want bushings and not heim joints given what I'm doing with the truck. I could make the one I have adjustable by cutting it and installing a large threaded rod. But I think I'd rather buy in a ready-made one. And to align it, they suggest using plumb bobs, which I'll do. But I would think that lifting the truck with the lift, w/o the track bar installed, and then setting it down would give a good starting point. Yes? On the LoPro question, I really don't know and could sure use some help there. In poking around on their site I found the document below, which I haven't been able to get my head around yet. And, their heretofore email responses have been less than helpful, so I'm confused.

Yes, I've updated it. Trying to keep each truck's description to one line, but the one for Dad's truck is a bit long. Anyway, I took "soon-to-be" out of Big Blue's description to get it on one line. Struggled with that one, but having purchased the D60 I guess it is going to happen. Sent a note to Sky last night asking if their FORD-FSROB-003 is the right kit, and if I need an adjustable panhard rod. But I'll throw those questions out here as I'll get better answers. The bushings in the panhard rod are pretty much gone so will have to be replaced - unless I go with the adjustable one. But bushings are only ~$20, as opposed to the adjustable one at $139 to $174 depending on the whether you go with bushings or heim joint, and whether you have it powder coated. But, their site says "You will feel increased road vibration with heim joints, but they will last longer." I'm inclined to go with the bushings, but what do y'all think? And, how important is it to go with the adjustable one? And, are their other brands? I'll search for that, but if you know....

Not a bad price, and it has been very nicely cleaned.

Very true. There's always someone with more, and someone with less.

A couple of days ago I bought a "front clip" from a '95 F350 w/a diesel. They cut the frame behind the engine cross member and gave me everything forward of that, including: The cross member, which will be used to repair or replace the badly sawzalled one on Big Blue A Dana 60 straight axle with 4.10 gears, SRW hubs, bolt-on brakes as well as ball joints instead of king pins Steering box and pitman arm Panhard rod and bracket Shock towers and shocks The F350 springs as well as a pair of Superduty springs from an '06 SD Tie rods All brackets and u-bolts 4" riser blocks from the back of another 4wd F350 Today I got it unloaded into the shop and started disassembling it. When I get the D60 out I'll take it somewhere for a complete rebuild as well as to have an Ox locker installed. Here are some pics, starting with it and all its grease on the trailer: Here 'tis after having been cleaned with the pressure washer and several of the parts removed: And here are the parts that came off today:

Jim - Progress is certainly GOOD! But those dust shields have been bent, so I'm not sure I'll be able to use them. I hope so. As for envy, is that about the dust shields or the D60? All - I don't mind carrying on with conversations here, but I want to start documenting Big Blue's Transformation in that thread. So I'm going to post a bit about having gotten the front clip, what my plans are, etc to get that thread going. And, you can follow my progress in the first post, which has my evergreen checklist, the document I'm recording everything in, embedded in the first post. I'm hoping that doing it that way will create a complete package, but we shall see. The document was initially broad-brush, but as I get closer to things I will flesh it out more. That gives me boxes to tick, and that makes me feel good.

Bill - Just so Jim understands, you said it correctly: The AVS was an alternative to a Holley. And it was the Holley that made the 4180 look excellent. Jim - As Bill knows, my first Super Bee had that Holley. I'd been raised on Carters and Rochesters, and that Holley was an absolute piece of JUNK! The gaskets leaked and it wasn't the secondary but the primary metering block on mine that warped. As did the main body. I still think of that carb when the word "Holley" is used. But the AVS was/is a good carb. It was an improvement on the AFB, but inherited all of the good traits of it and added some good features, like the adjustable air valve. I can get the model number of the one on my current Bee tomorrow as I have the factory manual and I know it tells. But it might also have the accelerator pump dimensions. I'll see what I can find.

Hope you get everything sorted quickly. And that pump might be good to put in just to ensure you don't break another plastic one.

Ok, I just got the trailer freed up. I can be there soon. Seriously though, can you show us a pic of the part?

I believe you can use new lifters on an old cam. However you need to make sure the cam isn't bad. But sometimes an exhaust leak can sound like a a ticking lifter.

I've never seen side braces on an '80-86 front bumper; only '80-96 rear. '87-91 fronts have an extra plate connecting the bumper to the frame horns: https://supermotors.net/getfile/700793/thumbnail/bumperbrkts8791.jpg Got the clip into the shop and off the trailer. And, I got a number of parts removed. First, here's a pic of lifting it off the trailer with the lift: And here's a shot of it at the end of the day after removing a bunch of parts: Here are the parts removed: sway bar & links but not mounts; shocks & shock towers; diesel perches; steering box & pitman arm; panhard rod & bracket; and bumper, which isn't in the pic. And here's a comparison of Jim's cross member on the left and mine on the right. They look the same.

Did you pull the lifters? If so, did you make sure they went back on the same lobe? You can't mix and match.

Yippee!!! On the carb, if I remember right, the YF/YFA have a fabric accelerator pump that can leak. Magnaflow mufflers have a nice deep note.

Good to know. But we couldn't get anything other than that to pop or clunk. My guess is that I won't find it until everything is apart. Just rolled Dad's truck forward and am about to bring the 95's front clip into the shop.

The one I have on the shelf has a brass stem. But, it has a leather skirt on the piston, and that's well worn. I'm not sure if a plastic piston will fit on that stem.

Jim - Janey just helped me check out BB. With the engine running there's no perceptible movement of the bumper from what she could see. But, with the engine off so I could be under it, when she turned the wheel the tie rod rotates on the tie rod ends. By that I mean that it spins and then it hits the neck of the ball joint in the tie rod and it stops with a clunk. Go the other way and it spins and goes clunk. I've never encountered that, but if that's the problem then it isn't a problem as that will get replaced. Bill - You are right, I don't have a factory bumper. But I don't think from what I can see that my bumper would bolt up properly to the '95 bumper as the profile is different. Given that and my serious reluctance to cut the frame and weld this one on, I'm probably going to do as Jim and I've been discussing and cut a piece out of the 95's cross member and weld it into BB. So, thanks but I don't think pics will be needed. Is that what you were meaning?

I may have an extra "stem" and would be happy to mail it to you. But, a replacement pump might be better. Your call.

I don't think any of understand the extent of the damage. I've studied the pics many times, and still do not fully understand. Yesterday's pics of what the rear of the cross member looks like where the 460's perch holes are help, but since you can't get a true end-to-end view of Big Blue's cross member given that the engine and front suspension are in, there's no way to know for sure. I don't think we are far apart on our ideas, but let's just agree that when the engine and suspension are out and the degreasing is done on BB, we can come back to this issue and craft a plan. For today I'm going to finish up on Dad's truck by bolting the cab down, then roll it forward to give access to the lift, and putt-putt the trailer in so I can pick that front clip up with the rear arms of the lift and set it on the floor - or on those pallets. Then I can start disassembling things and maybe tick off another box in the plan.

Jim - Your pic didn't come through. But, I can imagine that the piston on the accelerator pump is bad. The one on Big Blue's 750 was bad when I got it. Edelbrock says that this one fits: Edelbrock Performer Series® 1400, 1403, 1404, 1405, 1406 EPS Carbs as well as 1801, 1802, 1803, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1825 and 1826 Thunder Series AVS®carbs. So I'd say it is safe to buy one that is supposed to fit any of those carbs, and there are cheaper ones available.

Jim - I'm not 100% sure I understand what you suggested. What I didn't understand was "straight from the center of each to connect them". But I think you are saying to take a section as shown below, and on the back side go all the way down and take the lip. However, that probably wouldn't get all of the 460 perch holes as there's apparently one further towards the center from the left line, above. It would be the one on the left, below. But, might it not be good to leave that one as part of the original cross member and use the perch to help align the patch by bolting through both an old and new hole? Plus, doing so bridges the weld, providing some strength. But, it would also mean that the weld would have to be dressed smooth for the perch to fit flush.

Don't you own a plasma cutter Gary? A carbon gouge arc rod would work, but not as cleanly. Yes, the TTB pivot bushings are bolted to the bottom of the cross member. I think you are going to find it VERY difficult to get the cross member back in to Big Blue without deflecting the frame rails. Perhaps instead of bracing the frame rails with box tubing, another approach would be to make a plate that locates off the holes in the ends where the bumper is. Remove it to allow the frame to spread, get the butchered cross member out, the donor in, reattach it before bolting and welding the new one back. Or, just cut a patch out of the F-350 cross member and replace the section as first mentioned when you showed us the problem. This would certainly be more expedient and perhaps better chance of success. Tremendous job getting the clip clean without resorting to NaOH or Purple Power. I'm sure your trailer is grateful. Shaun - Until yesterday I didn't know that frame brace, or frame liner, existed. I'm going to have to check Big Blue and see if he has one. Jim - I'm coming around to your suggestion of welding a piece from this cross member into Big Blue. Taking out the rivets was one thing when I was looking at Dad's truck and seeing the several rivets holding it in. But then seeing the frame brace/liner on both the driver's and the passenger's side that is riveted to the cross member added more misery. Then the fact that the cross member is welded to the frame on each end added insult to the misery. I thought long and hard last night about using the technique in Steve's link to graft on the front section of the frame. But I'm not comfortable with that. And, the '95 frame has the wrong "horns" on the front so won't take the bumper. Right? Yes, I have a plasma cutter. So I could cut Big Blue's cross member to take out all of the sawzall cuts, and then take out a similar piece from the '95 cross member. Grind and shape it to fit, and weld it back in. And, with the engine and front suspension out I can probably even get to the bottom side to not only weld there, but to fishplate it. LOTS less work and a MUCH higher probability of keeping the frame lined up. What this plan says is that I should NOT spend time taking this cross member out. Instead get the rest of the stuff off the frame, and then strip the D60 down to the axle housing and diff and take it out to be gone through and the ring & pinion as well as the Ox locker installed. Then I can turn my attention to pulling the engine out of Big Blue, testing and rebuilding it, repairing the frame & cross member, etc. Sounds like a much better plan to me. And, by the way, the document in the first post of Big Blue's Transformation has now been modified to reflect this new plan. And, I have ticked off one box! I'm one the way! Thoughts? Suggestions?