Gary Lewis

I'm tuned in, keep 'em coming! On the pics, no. This forum's software, nor many forum's software for that matter, doesn't have the smarts to read the metadata in the picture file and rotate it. So you have to do that externally. Open the pic in some pic-editing software and then save it and that might do it. It usually does for me, but sometimes I have to try several times to get it right. What's the plan for the rust? Something like POR15 would kill it, once you get the loose stuff out. It bonds TIGHT to rust and cuts off the oxygen flow so it can't continue to rust. PB Blaster - I smelled like it when I came in this evening. Been using lots of it on the '95 front clip.

Bob - I want to go electric, and that's what is priced into the quote. (See Post #1 for where I am with this. ) What I don't know is how long of a cable I want as the cable goes from the cover to the electric motorized unit. I found one Youtube where a guy wrapped the shift cable in a big circle and put the shift motor on the other side of the axle. But I want the motor up higher, and won't know where that is until I get lots farther into this. So I guess Monday, after the root canal, if I can talk I'll call and see what they recommend. Maybe they know a good spot on an F350, or at least how long of a cable to get. Or maybe they'll agree to swap cables if the first one I get is too long or two short. I need to find one of the F600ish radio bezels. My plan/hope is that the OX switch will go into one of the slots on that, and another switch will bring on the air compressor, and yet another will parallel the batteries. Maybe another for lights? And then the slots above the switches will be used for readouts for the Arduino.

Replacing a clutch on a 4wd is tedious. But you should be able to do it w/o truly pulling the transmission or transfer case. A friend of mine and I did it this way on his truck: Pull the seat and floor coveringRemove the bolts holding the transmission cover to the floor. You may not have to pull the cover off the shift levers, so try it w/o taking the cover completely off and see if things will shift far enough to the rear in Step 8 w/o pulling the shift levers. If not, remove themPull the front and rear drive shaftsDisconnect the clutch linkageDisconnect the speedometer cable at the transfer caseUnbolt the transmission from the cross memberSupport the front of the engine with a jack or jack stand under the harmonic balancer. (I think the engine will be nose-heavy, but watch and see.)Unbolt the transmission from the engine and slide the tranny & t-case back to access the clutch. You may want to get 4 long bolts to replace 4 of the transmission/engine bolts. Use them as guides to slide the tranny back on, ensuring it doesn't go too far and that everything lines up when it is time to go back together.Hope that helps. As said, it can be tedious.

Steve - I don't have a chisel for my pneumatic hammer. Guess I'd better get one. However, I think the only knicks from the cutoff wheel are as circled below. The marks to the right of the bottom holes are from the cold chisel I used w/the sledge. It took the paint, but didn't really mark the metal. The issue with those holes is that the top of the rivets for that bracket are a huge irregular mess. So I used the cutoff wheel to take them down to where I could figure out where the actual stem of the rivet was, and then drilled the stem. But you cannot drill straight down since the upper lip of the frame is in the way. So I had to drill at an angle and, not wanting to enlarge the holes in the bracket, couldn't drill the rivet completely out. Given that, I used a chisel to take the remaining top of the rivet off.

Why didn't I think of that? Good idea! I do have a ball joint press. As for what the problem is, I've circled the spring eye bolt on the right side of the first pic, below. But I think your suggestion will do the trick. Here's what I got done today: Passenger's side spindle off & driveshaft out Tie rods off Both knuckles off U-bolts off the springs & shock plates as well as the driver's side wrap-around bracket off Driver's side spring off Passenger's side sway bar mount off - by drilling the rivets out. Lotsa work. Drained the lube out of the axle The axle is now sitting on jack stands, not connected to the frame. I have a bit more to do to the frame, like get the driver's side sway bar bracket off as well as the spring off, and then I can put it out back. That will then let me use the shop crane and put the axle in Blue, and I'm set up to take it to Boom's Garage next week. He's going to put the new 3.54 gears in as well as the OX locker, and replace all the bearings and seals. And here's the the passenger's side sway bar mount. Boy, am I glad that the plan is to cut a patch out of the cross member to repair Big Blue's as just removing those three rivets was a lot of work.

Thanks! And the Dana 60 info is up on the website: Driveline/Axles and Differentials and then the Front Axles tab, then the Instructions tab and finally the Dana 60 tab. Well, I'm soooooo close to having this thing apart! But the passenger's side rear spring eye bolt is rusted to the bushing and refuses to come out and play. Any suggestions? Here's what I've done: Turned it with a breakover, but can hear the bushing slipping in the rubber; soaked it in PB Blaster; hammered on the end, with a nut on it of course, with the 4# sledge. Nada. I'm not going to use the F350 springs, but don't really want to send that one to the scrap heap when the frame goes. I guess I could cut the hanger off the frame, but I'd still have to cut the bolt or torch the thing and burn the rubber out. Still, the bushing would be bound to the bolt, so that doesn't get it out.

Matthew - It sure looks good! And Dominic sure is growing. Hope you and he get to come back to the truck's old stomping grounds for a show one of these days. Does grandma still live here? I'm sure she'd like to see the truck.

Thanks! And the Dana 60 info is up on the website: Driveline/Axles and Differentials and then the Front Axles tab, then the Instructions tab and finally the Dana 60 tab.

Bob - It also worked on the passenger's side, although that rascal fought me to the very end. But it is out and I'm starting to pull tie rods, then ball joints, and I'll have the basic axle ready to take for rebuilding. Dane/grumpin - I got the CD. Thanks again! I'll do some work and get the Monobeam bit up.

Looks good to me. Don't see any reasons why not.

Ohhh, so much to share! First, success! Plan B(ob) works. But, I only got the driver's side off as the passenger's side is the one I'd been working on this morning, and I see now that I have it cocked. So I switched to the driver's side and off it came. I used a 4lb plumber's sledge and took several hits on each bolt then tightened the spindle nut. Hits/tighten, hits/tighten. And I didn't really have to tighten the spindle nut all that much each time. But, this design of D60 doesn't have a washer between the nut and the bearing, and I don't have anything that size, so I just lubed it. Here's the puller, which is made of 3" channel 8 1/2" long. It is just something I've had for 49+ years, and it happened to be the right length. It had a 5/8" hole 3/4" from one end, so I put another one on the other end to match and used a hole saw to put a 2" hole in the middle. It slipped right over the spindle, but I only had one 5 1/2" long 5/8" bolt, so I pulled the piece of hardened all-thread off the shop crane. The combo worked nicely. Here it is doing its job: And here is the spindle and driveshaft. Boy is the D60 much more simple than the D44! Bill - I plan to use the 4wd, and that will make this well worth it. Tomorrow I'll put the nuts back on the high side of the passenger's side spindle straighten it up and then pull it. Should come off easily.

I'm baaaaack! And the bad news is that the parts store doesn't have the adapter nor can they get it. So, I'm gonna try Plan B(ob). And, the tooth is cracked. So, Monday at 8 am I'll be back to have root canal and a crown. As for the good news, I'm not sure there was any.

Jim - I only used the air chisel under the flange, not anywhere that would cause peening. Bob - That's an interesting approach. I hope I don't have to use it, but I will if the slide hammer doesn't do it. I'm about to head out the door, stop by the church building and talk with our minister, go to O'Reilly's to get the puller, and then to the dentist. Hopefully I'll get home in plenty of time to try the puller today and report back.......

I'm not sure I'd want to tackle that on the lathe. I've never done any internal thread chasing, only external, so making the adapter would be a pain. However, if I had a spare spindle nut then I could weld it to a tube and make the adapter. But, spindle nuts like the rounded one I have show for over $50, so I think I'll rent the puller. And, I'm sure I'm going to need all the luck I can get. They look like they've taken up permanent residence in those knuckles.

The NOS one says E5 on the box, so it is the later 'gate, but can be used on an earlier truck as explained here (Exterior/Bed and Tailgates) on the Tailgates tab and then the Changing Tailgates tab.

Mid-day update: Nada. Got the socket and got the spindle nut off on Wednesday, but today I've been beating my head and everything else available on the spindles to get them off. No dice. Heated them, soaked them w/PB Blaster, used an air chisel, and on and on. But this thread on FTE has given me hope, so I'm off to get a slide hammer and spindle adapter after lunch. Not sure if it is daylight or another locomotive, but there's light in the tunnel.

Wow!!! That is WAY cool! Congrat's!

They look good, nice price, and free shipping!

Apparently it was pretty nice - it sold for $8K.

They are ok, but I have 3 NOS ones I need to sell. These are $25/ea and mine are $50 ea, but better than twice as good.

Nice truck for the price.

Congrat's! It lives!!!!

I forgot: * Indicates Motorcraft Sales Part Number

Ford was really inconsistent with how they treated replacement part numbers, and this is a good example. Just do away with what had to have been an E7TZ part number and replace it in the catalog with the E9TZ. But when the F2 part came out they said "replaced by".