Gary Lewis

Do you need the feedback carb to meet emissions testing? Otherwise I'd consider going with a non-feedback carb. Having said that, do you have the EEC-III system? If so you'll not have a vacuum advance on the distributor if it is the EEC-III system. And, back to the carb, have you checked to see if you have fuel in the bowl? You can do that by looking down the throat of the carb and opening the throttle briskly - with the engine off. You should see fuel squirt into the carb.

Yep, it is ready! And we almost have enough onion layers to have a Bloomin' Onion. Jim - That's a funny video. Cool. And it shows why I didn't want to attempt that. I did get all of the parts clean save for the spindles and hubs/rotors. And I got the ball joints out of one knuckle. Had to make a new 3" "receiver" for my ball joint press as well as find some big washers as spacers to push with. Maybe I need to make a spacer as a pusher? I'm not too impressed with the Harbor Freight press kit as so far I've had to make a part or improvise one on every vehicle. Maybe tomorrow I'll get the hubs and spindles clean and take the rotors in to be turned.

Shaun - The 9" continued through '86:

It's actually much more complicated TO DO CORRECTLY than most people realize... The pinion bearing preload is critical, and it takes an inch-pound torque wrench (which is a rare beast) to measure or set it. Before removing the pinion nut, the preload should be measured (which is a process in itself) so that the nut can be re-installed to the same setting later. This is NOT the torque on the nut (which is over 200 lb-ft). Yes, many people skip all that & just tighten the hell out of it. And some of them even get substantial life out of the axle afterward. But it's not likely. Absolutely. Looks like I need to add that section to the website.

I think one or more of the rims are bent. That bronco had a hard life laying on its side, hitting rocks etc. I get some significant wobble now. I like the black rims and beauty rings more than the old rims though, so I won't be putting old rims back on. I may have these balanced and checked to see if they are bent. My bud says they are the factory bronco rims. Are they? I don't know Maybe I can just replace one if its bent. Ray - If those are Ford-issued wheels they'll have ID codes stamped near the valve stems, as shown on the Identification Codes tab here: Driveline/Wheels. That way you can find out what the width is.

Mid-day report: The D60 is loaded in Blue for its trip to Boomer's garage on Thursday. And cleaning of the shop and parts has started. Most of the tools have been put away, the parts washer is up to temp, the floor's been swept once but needs it a few more times, etc. Here's a few shots of the loading. First, I have the axle on the shop crane lengthwise thinking I'd have to put it in at an angle. But, as you'll see in the next pic, it can go side-to-side, which would have made for an easier connection on the crane. Here's the axle chained to the rear and strapped to the front, and sitting on the pallet: Last, here 'tis with the tonneau closed as it is supposed to rain on Thursday. However, I have the vent capped and the ends of the axle taped up, just in case.

Looks GREAT, Ray! I now like the tires. They just had to grow on me a bit.

I was wondering how hard it would be to make quad brackets for an F250/350.

I've always thought it wonderful that the English language has a whole word dedicated to just that one odd concept. I couldn't find a word meaning to throw something in through a window, though, so I made that one up on my own. Makes sense to me: Defenestration is out Enfenestration is in

The 1356 has a bit different shift lever arrangement. Like the lever is up instead of down, or vice versa. And the linkage for them comes out of the side of the transmission bulge instead of through the transmission cover. Anyway, I'm told that you can adapt the link for an NP208 or BW1345 to the 1356, and I'll have to learn how as I have a 1356 in Dad's truck. But it isn't bolt-in. So you dodged a bullet. Or a pellet. On the u-joint, I've not used the crossover ones, but I've read about them.

And both sides, which is important as that stuff is hard, if not impossible, to replace.

If it is just the u-bolt, and surely the u-joint cap, they make crossover u-joints with larger caps on one side. But maybe the pinion is also longer and you need a shorter driveshaft?

So Nov - Jan is the time to come to FL?

Ooooh, there's a new word for me! The act of throwing something or someone out of a window. [from c. 17th c.] (Britain) The high-profile removal of a person from an organization. (computing, humorous) The act of removing the Microsoft Windows operating system from a computer in order to install an alternative one.

Lot of truck for the price.

I don't know how hard the pin striping is to apply, but I'm going to guess that having it done would be best. And, I'll bet that a pro will put the stripes on with paint instead of tape. As for Don Thornton, he no longer sells Fords. Perhaps because of what you've seen? He now sells Audi, Caddy, Jag, Land Rover, Lexus, and VW.

That's THE best way to do it. Otherwise the front of the crossmember and the oil pan are in the way and what you learned from watching MacGyver comes into play. Amen, brother! I read and watched Youtubes about D60 SAS's until I was blue in the face. But everything I found said DO IT WITH THE ENGINE OUT!!!! One guy explained how to slip narrow end wrenches between the pan and the cross member, and down into the little valleys where the bolts are for the TTB brackets. But, while he did get the nuts and the brackets off, he couldn't get the bolts out. And that is what convinced me to do the D60 conversion while the engine was out, and not later.

That's funny! And gross!

It is looking good. I really like ticking the box on my to-do list, so I recommend having one. And. glad you found one for that price. Good job.

I think it does! Battery -Ve to passenger side frame and then on to the block, right? So that is all there and looks in good shape, but maybe it is time to pull that all apart... I added an 8AWG cable (crimped and heat shrinked) from the battery to the VR and now it is performing well. Took the mutt to starbucks for a "puppy-ccino" I kid you not, it is a thing... Still need to check the grounds. Still need a 3G! But there are some more serious issues to deal with, like the rear diff needs a new pinion seal and rear cover seal, Radiator still needs replacing.. I have had that part since September! Thanks for all the help! She is running again, the sun is shining and I will use her to go to soccer tonight! :) Congrats!!! Well done.

Good idea! I'll give that a try. Thanks.

Well, although I was in the chair for 4 1/2 hours, I got home at 12:30 and went out to the shop as I felt pretty good. However, Jim has already pointed out that whatever anesthetic they used probably hasn't worn off, so I may hit a wall later. And I called OX and talked to Chip. He suggested that I should go with a 48" cable as that's what they sell to most of the Ford guys. But, if I want a longer, like 58", or shorter, like 36", then I can return that one to get the other if it hasn't been used. However, he thinks it'll be a lot easier to figure out where to put the shift unit if I have it in my hand. Then I set up delivery of the D60 to Boom's Garage for Thursday morning. That means I have to get everything off the frame and it as well as all the parts out of the way and then load the D60 in Blue. Steve/FoxFord33 is coming over Wednesday and will help me load it. So that means I have to get a few things done. Given that, I drilled and chiseled the rivets out of the LH sway bar bracket. Then I turned to the recalcitrant rear spring eye bolt, but that didn't go well as even though the ball joint press was able to move the bolt some I couldn't get it to come out. I suspect the metal sleeve, to which the bolt is rusted, is folding up inside the rubber bushing. So in the end I removed the two bolts and drilled out the four rivets holding the rear spring perch to the frame and got the spring off. And if I need it in the future I'll set the rubber bushing on fire and get it out that way. Anyway, everything that I think I could possibly want, with the exception of the patch out of the cross member, is off the frame at this point. And here's what the shop looks like - a mess. Tomorrow is clean-up time!

Gsmblue - The early trucks, including your '82, had sketchy grounds. For instance, the tail lights ground to the bed, but the bed only grounds through its 8 bolts to the frame. By '85 they'd changed that such that the tail lights et al came all the way back into the cab to ground. And by '95, like the front clip I'm working on, they'd gone way beyond that. To the point that the cab mounts have ground wires around the bushings. So you can't go wrong by adding grounds. Jim - I hadn't thought about whatever they used to deaden my mouth wearing off. And here I thought I was doing well.

If you can measure 120 ohms with a DVM then when the current starts flowing you'll have an even bigger problem. Fix that and I think you'll be golden - until the next "please give me a 3G" beg comes. And, you may not have the body grounded. Jim - Thanks. I'm just on Advil and feeling pretty good - as long as I don't think about it. But 4 1/2 hours in the chair was looooooooong.

Yes, the truck wants a 3G!