Gary Lewis

Good luck. Some of the older guys/shops should know that carb well.

Not sure, but I probably have the valance panel. And maybe some other things. Check it out next week. As for the tires, they may round out, but may not. Only time will tell.

Alex - Name's not Bill, it is Gary. Guess I should put that in my sig? On the 2150, while it isn't technically a thread, we do have a page on that carb: Fuel Systems/Carb's, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150. And Bill has some tips in there. Bill - Anything you want to add to the tips tab just let me know. Your expertise is invaluable.

Yes Gary. Been a good time. Honestly, I cant wait to get my garage finished out, so I can start a Bull nose truck club. I will have to include the brick nose guys too though. There are about 10 bricknose trucks within 1/2 mile of me. 6 of those are sitting two doors down in 1 guys yard. Another guy just a couple doors down has two extended cab brick noses. I also have spotted a bullnose f250 just like big blue, same colors, sitting in a guys front yard about a mile from me. I saw another bullnose sitting in the weeds a couple doors down in the neighborhood on the other side of my back yard. This will be fun...... Before you decide you want the F250 think about the ride. If it is 4wd it will be awful. Then think about the cost of making it what it ought to be w/a D60 straight axle. And then buy an F350 instead.

I'd hate to think what the engine looked like after that. Did the rings fail and the oil made it into the cylinders? How much oil was left for the bearings? Yipes!!!

Bullnos-aholic. I have a feeling I will have three or four before this is all over with. I get so many compliments on little blue. People out here in the sticks love the crap out of it, especially with 32s on it. Three or four? Only 3 or 4? Slackard! At your age you should have higher aspirations. I'm antiquated and I've had six whole trucks and several partials. And, you meet the nicest people in a Ford. Or, maybe that's searching for Ford parts? Or maybe searching for Ford help? Seriously though, w/o Fords we wouldn't have met. So, it has all been worth it.

It is very possible that it is a gummed up carb. I recently pulled a carb apart that has been sitting for 12 years or so and there was varnish in the bottom of the bowls. If yours has that it could have glued the float down to the bottom of the bowl and, therefore, no gas can get in. Can the shop pull the carb apart? It isn't terribly difficult to do.

After tearing into the truck, I found that the doors have previously been replaced with Bullnose doors for whatever reason (That's probably why the truck is now Maroon rather than white). Because of that, I have no way of knowing whether these doors originally had map pockets, and whether the Bricknose pockets were even installed correctly. But the area behind the vent is just the regular sheet metal and I don't really plan to make the vents functional. Ok, I guess that didn't prove anything. Thanks.

Nice truck. But I'm not sure I like it $9,500 worth.

Yep. Big Blue already has them all the way around, but the ones that Sky sells, the 5100 series, are specifically for lifted applications using stock mounts.

Yes, I'd bet they just double up. I'm happy to go with singles as I think they'll get the job done w/o being harsh.

Got more done today, inc: Pulled the wheel bearings and races out of the hubs, removed a can-worth of awful grease, and then washed the hubs Pressed out the ball joints on the 2nd knuckle, and washed both knuckles Measured the ball joints for my search, and discovered that Vernon had sent the right lower units. Oh, and I pressed the needle bearings out of the spindles. Yes, pressed them out. See below.

If you are so inclined, you could pull it down yourself using the instructions here: Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Carter YFA 1bbl.

I'd bet the needle is stuck to the seat in the carb, which prevents gas from coming in. Sometimes you can fix that with a rap on the carb with a plastic-tipped hammer or even a screwdriver handle. Tap down on the carb and then see if gas flows. May take a few tries, but it does work sometimes. And yes, it can be from a few years of sitting. The gas turns to varnish and causes things to stick.

POR, or any paint for that matter, will stick better if it has "tooth" to grab. So a quick scuffing of the paint with a sanding pad will help - but only after the floor is CLEAN. Otherwise you be embedding the yuk into the grooves left by the sandpaper and you'll not get the paint to stick.

According to the master parts catalog, you are correct. Go here: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Manual Transmission Applications and go to the Sorted By Transmission tab - and wait until it loads. That shows that the first 5-speed was '88 and that was what Ford called the T.K., with the ZF not coming until '89.

Buy them from Sky. Yes, but at $238 for the brackets and another $190 for shocks we are talking about real money. And I seriously doubt I'll be doing anything with the truck that will warrant that much shock. In fact, it might hurt the ride. Also, what shocks? I know that when I bought shocks for Dad's truck the tech at Monroe said that their set for the quad shock applications has different valving for the front shock vs the rear shock. Does anyone have that for an F350? I did look at the quad shock arrangement on Sky and their picture, below, seems to show the same shock front & rear as both part #'s end with "52". So it looks like they are just doubling up.

It is really starting to look like a truck! Although one that doesn't know if it is an animal or a building block. Seriously though, I didn't know that the Brick map pockets fit that well. Do all of the holes line up? And, does the vent go into the main opening of the door, or is it blocked off by the door's inner skin?

Jarek - You'll find that here: Suspension & Steering/Alignment.

I'm glad the linkage fit so well. It didn't on my ZF5 swap, and I had to make the linkage longer to put the lever in the proper position. How I did that is explained here: Driveline/Transfer Cases and on the Linkage tab and then the Adjustable Linkage tab. And I'm glad that the original transmission cover worked. Again, it didn't in my swap, but I'm happy for you. As for the u-joint, I'm thrilled for you on that one.

Cool! I hadn't seen that.

It will stick fairly well to cured paint, just not as well as it will to rusty metal or bare metal etched with the treatment. I wouldn't strip what you have. Just clean it all with the prep, etch any bare metal, and paint.

Man, that is a bear to figure out what it fits. If anyone NEEDS to know I'll see what I can do. But otherwise I'll pass.

I'll see if I can get the 9" writeup from the FSM up on the website.

Infinity and beyond! Well said. I had the same spring do the same thing the other day. But I don't think it made it to infinity as it is somewhere in the shop. Anyway, did the pump fit well? And how does the truck run?