Gary Lewis

Bummer! None near me either. Big Blue's hood is bent down in the middle, so for $75 I'd pick up another one for the time when he gets painted. But, all of these are a looooong way from me. And some are a lot more than $75.

Since Ford, or maybe Dana, eliminated it some time between '86 and '95 I guess that proves it isn't necessary.

There always is I have (gasp) the last bit of dreaded body work and think I have enough paint to paint the under side of the hood so I can get it on before I paint the cab. I also have the door panels that a PO spray painted black. I have a qt. of old brake fluid I want to try and see if it will lift the paint but not hurt the panel. If that works out I can then use SEM to paint them and the other parts for inside the cab to match the dash I have already painted. And speaking of dash I have the pad I started to repair that I should also finish some day but I don't think it is the one I will use as I have a pad topper to used. Dave ---- Looks like you have plenty to keep you busy w/o spending money.

The outer ring is the primary thing that holds the lock body in the hub. The one on the axle stub shaft is what holds the U-joint in-line between the ball joints/king pins. AFAIK, all stubs have an outer groove, but most with auto hub locks use a different snap ring at the inboard end of the splines to retain the stub & keep the U-joint in-line. It's the "C" at the bottom center of this pic: https://supermotors.net/getfile/72047/thumbnail/b35.jpg Shaun - I think you are looking at the wrong FSM. Look at the one on the tab labeled Ball Joint, which has the '95 FSM, and on Page 2 you'll see this illustration which shows no snap ring. And also note that it shows the outer and inner lock nuts and lock washer, but not the wonky rounded-hex nut and c-clip. (Now you see why I'm ) And my stub doesn't have a groove for a snap ring:

Mine have already been converted, luckily. Good! 👍

It's a 95+ but I have no way of knowing the exact year since I bought it from somebody who had 10 of them and the axle tag is gone. Shaun - Just check to make sure that you have the right nuts on yours. Not the rounded-hex ones with the tapered shoulder on them.

So are you going to get the standard spindle nuts and put those on in place of the rounded hex nut and c-clip retainer to use with your manual hubs? Yep. I ordered the nuts and special washers as well as the o-rings from Torque King 4x4. I’ll sand/file the dings out of the hubs, media-blast them, and then powder coat them Safety Red. 🤪

Well, I just figured out what I have and how I'm going to fix it/them. Called Torque King 4x4 and talked to Roy. I explained what I have and he explained that the '95 from which the axle came originally had automatic locking hubs. He knows this because that's the only thing that came with the rounded-hex nut and c-clip retainer. So, since my hubs are manual-locking ones then someone has pulled the auto hubs and bolted on the manuals. However, according to Roy that is a ticking time bomb and 9 times out of 10 it goes off. That's because the auto hubs held the keeper in, but the manual hubs don't. So the c-clip falls out and the driver's side nut tightens up and the bearings seize, and the passenger's side unscrews and the hub falls off. As for how the auto hubs work, we surmised that the weird outer part of the nut serves as a clutch or synchro against the hub, and spins something in the hub to cause it to engage. And that fits with the description in the '95 shop manual: So I have yet another couple parts to clean up, blast, and powder coat.

On my friend's '17 F150, most of the nav functions are locked out when the truck is moving over ~3mph. I know Baldrick used that a few times, but I thought Lord Blackadder came up with it, after killing the king. I think I still have these: https://supermotors.net/getfile/71707/thumbnail/hublocks-f250.jpg I've watched all of the Blackadder series (three?), but I forget who first came up with the catch phrase. So, I'll bet you are right. On the nav system, you can't input a destination while moving on mine, but you can pan and zoom. However, it is a really clunky system. By FAR the worst nav system I've ever used. Most have a joy stick to let you pan or zoom, but not this one. You have to drag to pan, and there's a noticeable delay which makes it awkward. And after two minutes it reverts to where you are. So you can't use my trick of placing the cursor on the intersection where you are to turn as it will revert back before you get there. Anyway, on those hubs and locks, I'm glad to see that they can be smooth. I had a few minutes watching the g-twins bike so took these outside and cleaned and lubed them. The main drag appears to be the o-rings on the dials/knobs themselves, one if which is cracked. And I lost one of the large o-rings that goes between the cap and the hub. Plus, the cap's bore is corroded a little bit at one spot where the knob's o-ring rides. It'll probably clean up, but then it'll probably corrode again since the chrome has been penetrated. In any event, I did get them to be free enough that I can turn them fairly easily. Given that, one of two things needs to be done. The cheaper solution would be to find a rebuild kit for these caps to get the o-rings, and then smooth, blast and powder coat these. That would fix the bore so it wouldn't corrode, and would hide the bumps and bruises on them. The much more expensive solution would be to replace the nuts & washer as well as the lockouts. That's looking like several hundred dollars so I'm leaning to the repair & powder coat approach. Thoughts?

AFAIK, Warn has always made all factory hub locks for all 3 US makes (actually for Dana, which sells axles to all 3 US makers). The guts of the locks need airspace so the mechanisms can move. Filling them with grease effectively hydraulics (hydrolocks) them; manual OR auto. Mine work fine in all weather. I'm more-familiar with 1/2-ton axles, but I don't think Dana designed a different hub based on what type of lock goes in. I wouldn't use it inside the lock. Maybe outside the cap, under the knob. I think it can be very confusing have 7~8 identical switches in a row. Especially if you need to hit THE RIGHT one quickly; either in the dark, or when you can't take your eyes off where you're going. That's why I used several very-different switches on my dash - it's impossible to confuse them (even though I still haven't labelled them). https://supermotors.net/getfile/988712/thumbnail/38clusterr.jpg That space is designed to be dry, so rain can keep it clean. I'd disassemble the plastic knob from the metal cap, clean & polish both, and see how it works without lube. Dana makes the hubs; Warn makes the locks. Jim - I don't think there's any chance these locks are going to magically turn out of or into Lock. At least unless I find something seriously jamming them that can be cleared up. I've never seen locks this tight. Steve - You make a good point about the switches. But one thing you didn't really say, although you implied it, is that the tighter the switches are packed in the harder it will be to get the right one. Even though I'll have the D60 with SD springs and an RSK, it'll still ride rather stiffly. One of the dumb things Ford did on my F150 is to make the nav system's input via the touch screen. Granted it is an F150, but it is still a truck, and if you don't rest your hand on something for steadying it is very difficult to hit the right "button". So packing the switches in tightly is probably not the best idea. However, I didn't fully convey my thinking on how to differentiate the switches. First, the lever itself is available in black, gray, white, and red. And, it is available with two rows of raised bumps, like the OX switch, or three indented lines. Then the lens is available in clear, white, amber, green, red, and blue. So there's plenty of options to make them appear different. However, I also have a plan (a cunning plan to borrow Dogsbody's phrase) to illuminate them at night. The LED in them is a separate circuit, so if I use a resistor from the dash lighting circuit and a diode to each switch the LED's can glow at night. And if I have different colored lenses and perhaps legends they should be distinguishable even at night.

Thanks! Your axle is a '90?

Bummer! Are there things you can do to the truck w/o spending money?

Once you have the dead, chalky plastic off you don't have to go any farther. But I like to use a #60 grit paper so things aren't dead smooth 'cause they weren't from the factory. And in my experience, #60 will load up pretty quickly if you don't keep it wet. Anyway, if the paint pretty well matches your door panels then it should work out good. Ford used way too much red in most of these trucks in my book, so I like going with maroon.

Automatic hubs require different spindle nuts than manual hubs (or at least, than most manual hubs). The auto hubs need to have a "ground," somehing that doesn't turn with either the axle or the wheel hub. The spindle nut is the closest thing to the auto hub that isn't moving, so they used that. But the spindle nuts for auto hubs gets in the way of (at least most) manual hubs. So if you have the auto hub spindle nuts you need to replace them with standard spindle nuts to put (at least most) manual hubs on. Warn sells a "conversion kit" to do this, but it's just normal Spicer spindle nuts on a piece of cardboard that has a big red "W" on it. You can go to your favorite auto parts store and get the same things cheaper. And I keep saying "at least most" manual hubs. As far as I know, all manual hubs work with the standard spindle nuts and none work with the special ones required for auto hubs. Which would mean if you took any manual hub off you could put any other manual hub on. However, I wouldn't put it past Ford to get a special manual hub that can be used with the automatic hub spindle nuts so they don't have to stock two different types of spindle nuts. If that's what they did you would need the normal spindle nuts to put any other manual hubs on it. Still, Ford doesn't generally seem like the kind of company to use a slightly more expensive part when they could use a cheaper one, even if that would mean stocking fewer parts. And I also don't think they make their own hubs, so that's another reason I think their manual hubs would require the same spindle nuts as all the others. So while I can't say for sure, my bet is that any manual hubs will work on that axle with the spindle nuts you have. First, I think I've confused things. I have no idea if the hubs themselves work. What I'm having trouble turning are the knobs in the caps. They are not terribly dirty, and one's been lubed with silicone spray, and yet both of them are just about all I want to turn when they are off the axle in my hands. I'll clean them, hopefully soon, and then lube them to see if they can be made to turn reasonably easily. Ok, and now for the puzzler. I got the '95 FSM and have looked at the illustrations therein, and mine doesn't match any of them. I've put the illustrations below, but mine matches the one from Torque King 4x4 in the lower right. And in it I have parts 13 & 14. So I'm quite confused. Bob - You said: I think you are right - I think these manual caps & hubs work with the rounded-hex nut, but I won't know that for sure for some time. However, the hubs themselves have six screw positions, so in theory I could go for the earlier caps that use six screws. And, if the hubs work properly with the rounded-hex nut and the existing caps then why wouldn't they work with the rounded-hex nuts and six-screw caps? All the cap does is push the hub in, right?

Did this problem start with the replacement of the starter? Once you check the flywheel/flexplate then you may want to make sure the starter is the right one and is good.

Bob - I think that if I want to go with the earlier lockouts I'll have to change everything, meaning the hubs. But there's something I read that said the later style hub, with the rounded hex lock nut, requires a different lockout. Hmmm.... Jim - Dry Teflon might be the way to go. I'm catching an hour here and an hour there while the grandtwins are here, but I might get one of the lockouts cleaned and lubed in a day or two to see if it'll rotate easily. I think I have some Teflon lube for bicycle chains that flows in and then dries, leaving the Teflon, so I'll try it. All - Speaking of catching time when I can, I've been thinking about the switches on the dash. The OX locker comes with a lighted switch, and I'll also want switches for the air compressor, battery parallel, fast idle for winching, etc. And in order to have a place to put them I asked David if he could find me an F600 radio bezel since those came with the switch positions. However, I've never seen one with more then two positions, so would need to graft others in. But, he came up with what I think is "the" answer - Dennis Carpenter has a repop F600 bezel, as shown below, for $60. Assuming that it is very similar to the Bullnose bezels there's ~8 1/2" side-to-side and 2 1/4" up/down for the switches. And, it has a continuous slot of maybe 1" into which I can put a readout from the Arduino to give info on battery voltage, air pressure, driving lights, camping lights, etc. So that got me to thinking about what switches to use, and I asked the guy at OX what theirs is. He said it is a Carling. Below the OX switch is shown on the left and what I think is the right Carling is on the right, and it is a V1D1B60B-ARC00-000 Contura II. But they have many different lenses for them, including one that shows a light. The dimensions are 1.950" vertical and .940" wide, so I think that six will fit easily. In fact, seven should fit and eight might fit. So once I get the D60 back from Boom's Garage I'll have one of those switches and can play with how/if that switch would fit on a Bullnose bezel. But, if someone has an F600 bezel and can measure things for me that would really help. Thoughts?

Jim - What were you epoxy coating? Looks like a learning process. All - I think I've figured out what the deal is with the locking hubs. I bought the 1995 factory shop manual so I'd have the illustrations, torque values, etc as I'm re-installing things. And, in doing so I ran across these two illustrations that 'splain what the deal is with the hubs. Looks like I "lucked out" as I have the later ones. Notice that the early hubs have 6 screws and the later hubs, like mine, have 3 screws. And the early hubs have a 7/8 turn engagement where the later hubs have 1/3 turn engagement. And the latter has me a bit concerned as just turning the lockout dials with the hubs off is tough to do, much less with them installed. I've sprayed silicone on one of them and it didn't help. Perhaps if I pull it apart, clean and lube it it'll get better.

Wow! At $31.51 and free shipping that is a nice price.

I was just searching the forum and came across this. My 1991 F250 extended cab parts truck has those rear jump seats factory. Not sure how common of an option it is on the extended cab trucks, but it is the only extended cab I have seen with those seats. Good to know. It confirms what Steve was saying.

Good price: 80/81 F100/350.U150 E1TZ 16700-A

Nice price: 80/82 F-U100/350 EOTZ 18552-A

The listing is correct - diesel w/o ambulance package.

That's a PIPE (MUFFLER INLET), which we would call a y-pipe or exhaust pipe. But what it fits isn't easily said. One application is an '82 351W with no cat.

I'm not sure "experience" is the same as "knowledge". I've PC'd hundreds, if not thousands, of parts. But to say I have knowledge might be a stretch. However, I've had some serious failures and those have been the times when I've learned more than on the successes. Here are some of those failures: Lack of grease removal: My original thinking was that media-blasting would remove grease, so I blasted dirty parts. But all that did was to contaminate the media and embed dirt and grease in the part. Then, when in the oven, the grease turns liquid and runs out of the pores and seriously messes up the powder. The only thing that works for me is to make the part CLEAN before blasting, then rinse it with brake cleaner after blasting. Out-gassing: Aluminum is bad about harboring crud on the surface. Whether that's in pores or cracks or whatever, it is there and unless it is removed when the part gets up to temp it'll out-gas and blow the powder off. So aluminum parts have to be brought up to temp, ~400 degrees, and held there for at least 20 minutes to burn off the crud. I have an air cleaner cover that has fish eyes all over it. 2nd Coat: Many of the powders are supposed to have a 2nd coat on them to protect them, like primers and metallic powders. But since powder is applied via electrostatic attraction and the 1st coat insulates the part, getting a second coat on is difficult. However, if you put the 2nd coat on when the part is hot, like when you pull the part from the oven on the 1st pass, the powder will stick to the hot part very well. But, it is then very easy to get too much powder. Orientation: If the part has cavities that can hold powder you might want to orient the cavities down when applying the powder. Ask Brandon/Bruno2 what his timing cover looked like.

Oh, and the process will be to spray the chemical on the calipers and keep them wet for at least 20 minutes. I've tried heating the part before spraying it, but that usually creates a layer that has to be washed off, so just keeping it wet works well.