Gary Lewis

I'll bet the guys will find something, and soon. They like a good hunt!

After I posted it is a lot of work done just did not think that at the time. I did not know SEM made that product and will have to look into it. I seen an older post (Google on dash repair was a BMW site) where the person used SEM under coat to get the texture. He may not known or SEM did not make the textured product back then. You know I will report back on what ever I use but that product looks to be what I need to use with SEM paint for the panels. As for the AC & non-AC vents leaking I cant report as I have not driven my truck, or any, with the vents but I can see your point. Now my cab was a non-AC cab but as you know added factory AC but plan to keep the non-AC vents for more air flow. I am also thinking, wishing, the truck will be on the road before I have the AC working so going to need the vents. I also have a slider rear glass that needs to be replaced because of missing seals but it should give good air flow thru the cab. I also have a flat glass I may be stuck using till I have funds to buy a slider. Dave ---- I'll await your report on the texture and the kick-panel vents.

I haven't tried Bill/Numberdummy, but will. Good idea. On the illustration not matching, I'm just concerned that I have the wrong mix of parts. But I don't think the hub has a slot for the big snap ring, although I hope to verify that this afternoon.

I was wondering what the parts looked like after sanding and painting? "My only complaint is that you can still see the boundary between the good plastic and the plastic I sanded down".I sanded down 2 sets of kick panels, AC and non-AC and washed them. I did not want to paint them till I added some texture and wondered if you did and what you used. I see you did not add texture.I seen posted that SEM makes an under coat that dries and leaves a texture that I want to try.I have also used a sand type spry paint that might also work if I can find it down here as it was up in CT I used it.Dave ----In case Dave's comment about SEM having a texture to apply to plastic gets missed, here's some info. First, it is called Texture Coating, oddly enough.And here's their video that tells about it: Dave - I sure hope you try it and let us know how it works.

That was quite a day, Dave. On the texture, I think you mentioned that SEM has something. Is their Texture Coating it? The video is interesting and it would seem to be about right to give some texture to our interior pieces. I hope you try it and report back. On the kick panels, I've often thought that even though I have A/C I'd like a pair of the non-A/C kick panels so I could get more air through. However, I also worry that they might leak and in the winter I'd have COLD air coming in right by my feet. Plus, I do have the sliding rear window. So, what has been your experience with those kick panels? And which will you use?

AFAIK, the original design used a single thick steel splined washer labelled 3B458: https://supermotors.net/getfile/72047/thumbnail/b35.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/170464/thumbnail/autolock5screw.jpg After a few years, it was revised to the 3-piece washer stack (to reduce wear/noise/harshness, I GUESS), all labelled 3B458: https://supermotors.net/getfile/757655/thumbnail/autolock8593.jpg I'm not sure which one you're talking about. What stops it? Remember that they have to design for failure modes & wear. BTW I've lost track of what make/model/year axle we're talking about... They're just as human as the rest of us. I've lost count of how many errors I've found in all the Ford (& other makers') manuals & diagrams I've used. Jim - I hadn't noticed that it is a 5-lug hub, but you are right. Steve - It is a '95 axle, and apparently it was built after March of that year or it wouldn't have had the rounded hex nut and c-clip. Lucky me. And while I've noted many mistakes in Ford's publications, typically the illustrations in the FSM are correct. But apparently not in this case. At the very least it isn't an 8-lug hub. But the Torque King illustration, and I don't know where they got it, doesn't agree with the one from Ford. However, it apears to be accurate, or at least it matches what I have. Also I've found that Warn makes a LOCKING HUB SPINDLE NUT CONVERSION KIT - 32720 that is exactly what I ordered - the inner and outer nuts with the perforated washer. No 3-piece washer kit. No extra snap rings. Exactly what I ordered from Torque King. And, speaking of snap rings, this is the one I was talking about. And why the 3-piece washer set? Ford shows those things but Torque King doesn't, and I don't have them. My concern is that perhaps the Ford-supplied 3-screw manual hub needs them, maybe because it is shorter than the Warn or MM hubs? But I carefully explained to Roy at Torque King what I have and he said the nut/washer/nut combo was all I needed. Hmmm, I think I'll call him back tomorrow and make sure I understood correctly. And, see if they remember where they got the drawing. This is puzzling!

I'm jealous! Espy looks like FUN!

Ok, I sidetracked us, which is no problemo. But, I now want to get back on the mainline and ask a question of y'all.I'm still puzzling on the differences in the stub axles. From what I see: Before April '95: Had the 3-piece locknut/washer/locknut and a snap-ring on the shaft After March '95 according to the '95 FSM: Had the 3-piece locknut/washer/locknut, a steel/plastic/splined thrust washer pack, and a large snap ring inside of the lockouts 1995-97 according to Torque King: Had the 3-piece locknut/washer/locknut combo like the before-April '95 had, but didn't have the small snap-ring on the shaftIs that the way you see it? If so, why the steel/plastic/splined thrust washer pack and a large snap ring inside of the lockouts? Is the '95-97 manual hub/lockout, which I apparently have, shorter and therefore require the thrust washers? And why the large snap ring? Here are the illustrations again for your viewing pleasure:

Thanks! It's amazing what can be done when you RTFM and then actually follow it. Meanwhile, I'm not quite there yet on the flooring: The sacks of dirt did a pretty good job of flattening down the folds and creases, but even after letting it sit overnight and into the hottest part of the day, the fit around the transmission tunnel is terrible. I got to wondering if maybe I accidentally ordered the floor for the 4x4 cab, but I checked and my order was 4x2, as it should be. The other possibility seems (to me) to be that I need to trim material from the front of the floor, not the rear as I've been doing. This flooring is molded to the shape of the cab floor, and the transmission hump (obviously) gets larger the farther forward you go. If there's substantial excess at the front of the mat, then aligning the mat to the front edge of the cab is going to give me a too-big vinyl hump along the entire length of the floor, which might look like the picture above. So...anyone who has done this before want to weigh in before I start cutting again? I probably get one more substantial cut in the fore-aft direction before it's too late. My father would have said "That fits like a sock on a rooster." I've never seen that in real life, but have imagined it - both what it would look like as well as installing it. Neither is good in my imagination. Any chance you can move the thing forward w/o cutting it just to see how it would fit?

Wow! You got that for $700 and it runs?

Welcome! The 300 six is considered by many to be one of the best truck engines ever made, so you'll enjoy that one. And, for $700 if it runs you got a good deal. But, where are the pics? And, where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town and a state/province. Edit: I forgot. For body panels look to Tabco. They make the panels here in the US, and my paint/body man said they are the best he's used.

Matthew - The cover looks great. Well done! As for the color difference between that and the door panel, I find it amazing what the camera sometimes shows. Things that look the same to the eye don't to the camera, and vice versa. I'm not really sure why that is.

Even for $20 you got a steal! Well done!

The era of great customer service and knowledgeable sales people is coming to an end and it's getting hard to find companies like TK. I agree, it is definitely worth the extra price for the peace of mind that what you've ordered will be correct. We are doing it to ourselves by asking questions one place and then buying where it is cheaper. That's why I'm willing to pay both Sky and TK for their help. But I fear that you and I are in the minority.

You got the tailgate for $30? If so, that was a steal! Was the stainless trim panel included? Those go for lots more usually. Anyway, looking good!

Yes, it is frustrating. I ordered the '95 FSM to have the official word on the axle, only to find out that mine doesn't match what it says. But I was pleasantly surprised when I talked to the people at Torque King. They really knew what they were talking about and had the parts I needed available. The o-rings, the nuts, the washers, the socket, etc. And while their prices may be a bit higher than other places I've seen, I'm happy to pay it for the consulting.

That's good to know. I assumed that the straps broke.

Well done, Dane! Thanks. Jim - I do have the FSM procedure on the hydraulic clutch linkage, inc the slave cylinder, here: Driveline/Clutch Linkage. I'd forgotten. Anyway, it talks about "shipping straps". Are those the "retaining straps" of which you speak?

On the other arm, oil leaks make for messy repairs. The other day when I was installing the left-out bolts to Big Blue's engine perch my arms came out absolutely BLACK. I had to use hand cleaner on them several times in the process.

Don't think I have all those sections posted yet, but will try to get the torque values tomorrow morn if no one beats me to it.

I think that's an excellent use for those bags. I'll bet tomorrow afternoon things will be very pliable. Good luck to you.

95-97 FSM makes no difference here, since my axle has been converted to an older style setup that would have the snap ring according to the older FSM's. My question was whether that snap ring is necessary on a manual lockout setup since it isn't there on the auto due to the reasons provided by Steve. The illustration you provided is misleading in this situation since although it shows the axle shaft, it does not show the lockout end of the hub which is where this snap ring would be located. For that we need section 5-03C which AFAIK is not posted in the Tech section as of yet. I think that section is what will clear up your confusion on the auto VS manual hubs for the 95-97 trucks because it should show your funky auto spindle nut. But Steve basically answered my question, since the large outer lock ring is what really keeps the lockout body in the hub. I posted the lockout illustrations earlier, but they didn't have the part list. So let me do that again, with the parts list.Having said that, mine won't match the after March of '95 illustration. But it will match the Torque King 4x4 illustration. Here's the early, prior to March '95, illustration and it includes the snap ring:

Good job! I can't tell it has been modified.

Looking good! Summer is gonna be fun.