Gary Lewis

Yes, she is. And I forgot to say that Janey said "Do it right. Get new hubs." And with that she authorized the anticipated $300 expenditure. But she was happy that it'll probably be less than that, and that I may sell the D44HD. Oh, and the problem with JB Weld is that I don't know that it would stand up to powder coating. Perhaps I could have used it after PC'ing the rest of the hub?

Should be the right one for an '80 or '81 Custom.

I think I've worked out a buy-back from Brandon/Bruno2 of the Warn Premiums that came in the stash with Big Blue. They were marked "May be wrong size", and obviously were as they are the 38826's that are for a D60. Brandon bought them but hasn't used them, so I'll buy them back. In addition we are discussing a price on the whole D44HD front end off Big Blue.

For whatever reason the catalog says that is a starter for only an 83 or 84 diesel. Not later as they take a different part number.

I agree that it is high, but it is also a lot of truck. As I've said, if it can't be test-driven it has to be consider a parts truck. Perhaps you'll get lucky, but rarely is it any better than the seller says it is.

Correct for 1984-87 F-Series w/the 351 HO and the 1984, only Bronco with the HO. For whatever reason the 1985 and later Broncos had a different cleaner. It is unfortunate that the lid has several dings in it.

Nice!

Those are nice. Pricey but nice.

I thought those songs were "crying in my beer" songs. Diet Pepsi? That might make it better.

You are now, quite literally, on the map.

It would be a LOT of work for someone to create that. But, you can configure an '86 truck yourself by going here: Literature/1986 Literature/1986 Rapid-Spec Price List. Or, configure an '85: Literature/1985 Literature/1985 Rapid-Spec Price List. Sorry, but those are the only two price lists I have on the website at this point in time.

That's a lot of truck for $2500. (Its a lot of truck to turn around in a football field!) Wonder what engine it is? Did I miss that? But while the inside may be reddish, the outside looks to be a tan or brown.

LOL! Zip ties were few and far between in the 80's. I know 'cause I was hording them. Glad you finally found one.

Yes, welcome! David is right, the 300 was used in lots of big trucks inc aircraft tugs, many of which are still in use. You said "Houston", but is it really? We used to live in Katy but would tell people Houston if out of state as they rarely knew where Katy is. Anyway, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you give me the town. As for parts, LMC, Dennis Carpenter, and Jeff's Bronco Graveyard have interior parts, and it varies by vendor what is available. Other sources are salvages and people like us as we do sell or swap from time to time. You'll want to start a new thread about your truck in the main section to keep track of what you are doing, get input, etc. But, w/o pic's IT DIDN'T HAPPEN!

Well done! But those things are pricey!

That's the right attitude! Opportunity to learn. And I like to learn. Anyway, you'll have it running soon. Hope the carb fixes everything.

It's possible they made it, using pieces from other diagrams & some of their own. That's how I came up with this one: https://supermotors.net/getfile/933974/thumbnail/slidingbolts.jpg They market it, just like TorqueKing & everyone else. But most are made by Dana/Spicer. #17 is either drawn wrong for that location, or shown in the wrong location for how it's drawn. It should be the wide C (#19) in my diagram just above, and in the bottom center of my photo from before. https://supermotors.net/getfile/72047/thumbnail/b35.jpg The one in their diagram is drawn as the main retainer ring for the lock body in this & the NEXT pics: https://supermotors.net/getfile/881404/thumbnail/sealbridgeclip.jpg ...until it DOESN'T self-center. Then something like this will happen: https://supermotors.net/getfile/809855/thumbnail/100703xbroke.jpg Yet in the ~3 months I worked at the dealership, I submitted at least 3 corrections to the service manual and one to a safety recall. All were adopted, proving that the documentation had errors before. I think you're going OCD about it. It'll never be "sealed". It wasn't sealed when it was designed or built. Or when it left the factory. There's no reason to think you can seal it 40 years later. I'd put it together, drive the hell out of it, and follow the "severe duty" maintenance schedule. It'll be fine. Add a Teflon washer against the metal. Throw it in your powdercoat oven to melt the Teflon onto the metal semipermanently. That'll tighten up the O-ring and make it last longer. The problem is that the diagram isn't drawn to scale. 10, 12, & 13 should be larger. 10 holds 9 against 8 against 7 on 5. 12 prevents 10 from turning. 13 holds 12 against 10. 14, 15, 16, & 17 should be smaller. They hold 1 inside 4 & 5 against 2 & 3. 1's outer end is supported by the bearing inside 18. 18 is held in 8 by 19. 21 holds 20 on 8 by pulling against 18 & 19, sealing the outer end of 8. 6 seals the other end of 8 to 5. I ran MMs for years without problems. It wasn't until just before I rebuilt the Bronco (from bullnose to aero) (when I started driving it more-abusively) that they shattered a few times. I was with you about melting the Teflon until I looked up its melting point and read this in The PTFE Handbook, which sure looked familiar as I used to work for DuPont: My oven can reach 500 °F, but I doubt it can make 600 °F. So I don't think that is going to work, at least not with the oven. And while I agree the hub isn't ever going to be "sealed", right now I'm not 100% sure it would keep rain out due to the etching at that spot and the material I've removed. But, one approach I'd not considered is a heavy layer of powder on that land. I could mask the cap and shoot epoxy powder in there. Powder doesn't really flow out and "level" things, so the underlying texture is seen. But I could then machine it smooth and then put another layer of powder on top of that as a finish. Or I could buy some better lockouts and use my limited time elsewhere. I think I'll talk to my better-half about this and get her advice.

Yes, that's what I'm thinking as well.

Don't know that I'd ever heard that one before. That's a sad song!

Gary, Remember the DSO discussion?.... I happened to come across one while looking at trucks for sale, and it had the 6 digit DSO code. I don't know if we discussed it previously or not, but something I noticed on this particular certification label is that there is no factory paint color indicated in the usual spot...it is just blank. I read through this thread again and I see where Jonathan posted a picture of a cert label above with a 6 digit DSO code, and it too appears to be blank where the factory paint code would be. The certification label above is from a truck that is a weird orange color...so I'm assuming it was a custom order of some kind...company truck or whatever. Otherwise there's nothing unusual about it. Anyway...I was just killin' time....carry on;). Interesting observation, Cory. B6 would be Western Canada, and the 6361 I'd bet is tied to some company.

I'm having a hard time getting to where you are. I've included the drawing again, albeit reduced a bit in size, so I can try to get my head around it. And, here goes: Parts 11, 12, & 13 are the nuts and washers that go on the spindle, so don't touch the axle. Parts 14, 15, & 16 are said to be "thrust washers", with 14 & 16 steel and 15 plastic. And, 16 is splined so it must engage the splines on the axle. So depending on the ID of the washers they either take up the space between the end of the spindle or the outer nut of the nut/washer/nut combo and snap ring #17. But in either case, the "thrust" is when the axle tries to come in and those washers prevent that. So, I AGREE! The washers and inner snap ring hold the axle out. Dad's truck has Mile Markers, which I just rebuilt - and powder coated. I wasn't overly impressed with them, but they work fine. Big Blue has Warn Premiums and they work well. I can't say they are easy to turn, but even on the truck they are far easier to turn than just these 3-bolt caps from the Dana 60 are, and that's w/o the caps being on the hubs. As for the chrome, you may have gotten ones that weren't done well as the Warns on BB look great after 2 1/2 years I've had the truck plus whatever Vernon had them. All in all I think I'm leaning heavily to the Warn Premiums. But keep those cards and letters coming, please.

Yippee! I'm hearing "On the road again, just can't wait to be on the road again, ...."

You just needed to find a 95+ axle that was already converted the right way. Although I do wonder if mine was really done the "right" way. I would just replace the lockouts, but others showed their concerns with the Warn Standards (OEM plastic dial) so I would look into the Warn Premiums if you're already going to spend the money. Yep, that's the way I'm leaning - Warn 38826 Premium. These have a 9/10-turn dial, and y'all have said they are the way to go. Amazon has them at $291 & free shipping, but Torque King has them at $284 + shipping. And, since I have the 0-rings to return to them I might just buy them there. However, that gives me a good intro into a conversation with them tomorrow. They sell both of the Warns as well as the Mile Marker, which is only $160. So which would they recommend? And, where'd their diagram come from? Having said that, the MM's only have 1/4 turn, and I don't like that as I believe it makes the dial harder to turn. Which comes back to the Warn's.

I've emailed ND Bill. Let's see what he has to say. But, here's a pic of my stub shaft, w/o any snap-ring grooves and with the conical nut that I think was part of the synchronizer that brought the hub into play. And, there is a place where a large snap-ring could go, just inside of the splines in the hub. But that would put it about 1/4" inside of the backside of the lockout and I can't imagine what it would be holding in. Also, I've done some work on cleaning up the lockout caps and I'm about to come to the conclusion they aren't going to work. Here's a pic of one of them and you can see the corrosion on the land where the dial's o-ring is supposed to ride. And this is after I chucked it in the lathe and cleaned it up with the boring bar as well as sandpaper. And here's a closeup of the corrosion that's in about the 5:00 position in the above pic. I hate to spend another $250 or so on new hubs, but it is looking like I'm going to have to if I want them sealed. That's 'cause I can't take any more material out of that land to clean it up since the dial hits on the inside end already and there won't be any pressure on the o-ring if I do. Thoughts?

That looks MUCH better! And I think it'll lay down nicely with the bags, heat, and feet.