Gary Lewis

I don't know about best pricing. And, I've not owned a diesel in these trucks so don't really know that much about proper gearing for them. However, I would ask a couple of questions. First, how does the current combo do getting a load started? Second, how fast do you tow and for what distances? I ask those because any increase in gear ratio will help get the load rolling but hurt the performance and MPG at higher speeds as well as make the engine sound very busy. So if you tow at 65 MPH plus I'd be cautious about increasing the gear ratio. But if you tow at 55 MPH and need more torque to get the load rolling, or struggle pulling it up a hill, then a gearing change might help. Ford's spec's on the Engines/IDI Diesel page show max torque at 1800 and max HP at 3300 RPM. So the engine is going to be comfortable cruising at 1800, but won't want to rev much past 3300. You can play with the calculator (Driveline/Calculators) to see what different rear axle ratios do to your RPM. But with the 3.55's you are probably turning ~2800 RPM @ 65 MPH currently running light. But when towing the torque converter in the C6 is going to be slipping more and the R's will go up slightly. If you go to 4.10 gears you'll be turning 3100 RPM at 65 MPH and the engine is close to being wound out. But at 55 MPH you'll be turning 2700 RPM, which is much more relaxed.

Sorry, I misunderstood what you mean. I thought you meant the Resources page. Anyway, we will get it done.

I agree. I replaced my factory Holley with the Holley 600 CFM, ordered jets for the elevation I’m at and it’s running great, I’m real happy with it. I'm following in Bill/85LebaronT2's footsteps and converting Big Blue to '96 CA-spec EEC-V. Then I'm converting Dad's truck to the same. One of the reasons is what Ray mentioned - altitude. I plan to drive Big Blue to some very high locations and don't want to mess with re-jetting the carb. And, there's the MPG, which has surely got to be better with MAF & SEFI than with a carb. In addition there's the ability to put a scanner on the OBD-II port and have the computer tell any mechanic what the problem is. That's a significant benefit when you are 70+ years old and expect to pass the vehicles down to offspring that don't know anything about carbs. But, I do agree - build it the way YOU want it.

Jim - If you make the items hot-links I'll copy all that over. But you said the Resource page and I was thinking the 3G swap page. So, how 'bout both? And while the links will break over time, perhaps if we choose wisely they'll last for quite a while. I hope to get some quiet time on Wednesday or Thursday when I can work on this.

Yep, that should do it nicely.

David - Your friend is now on the list. As for the hotel, you are reading my mind. Yesterday I pulled last year’s document out and gave them a call this morning. I’ll let you know when it is done.

I won’t have a need for it soon, but I like having it. Besides, who knows what I might buy. 😉

Wow! Espy looks good! (And David is right, the dog looks happy.). 👍 How much are you going to lean the Eddy up? Just rods or both rods and jets?

Jim a We probably ought to revive the other thread. Be my guest! Buggtruck - A v-belt will only support ~90 amps w/o some slippage. But just because you have an alternator rated for more doesn’t mean it will try to generate more. That depends on the state of the battery and the type of regulator. A well-charged battery would not trigger a high-current output under normal conditions. Even with a big stereo you shouldn’t be pulling that much current unless you run the stereo with the engine off for an extended period. And there are regulators available with delay built in that would slow the output’s ramp up and therefore the slippage.

Jim - I'm "with grandtwins" and it makes concentrating difficult. This whole thing appears to need concentration as it isn't clicking with me. So, when I can devote some time I'll try to get my head around it. Having said that, if you have suggested any verbiage, or upgrades thereof, for the swap page please send it on.

Ray - You are on the list. But, I really feel for you and that situation. And, for your MiL's problems. Boy, that pic says volumes about the problems with the house. Anyway, I look forward to seeing you.

I knew that's where I got it, but assumed you still had one.

Ahhhh! So there are 3 variables: body size of 135mm v/s 148 mm; ear-to-ear mounting distance of 7" or 8 1/4", which doesn't always equate to body size; and amperage, which initially started as 90A and 130A for the smaller vs larger body size. Right? If that's right then it helps significantly. I've been struggling to understand everything we have and everything I've read, and was trying to fit it all into two variables: body size/e2e mounting distance and amperage. As for Matt, I think he's changed jobs. But perhaps he still has access to a chart/listing? Bill?

Yep, the two-step. But, 2-1=1 so you are making progress. And, as Jim says, progress is good. I'd bet the caliper is stuck or the piston didn't retract properly, and probably the latter. The disk brake calipers use an intriguing mechanism. The o-ring that seals the piston is also the spring that brings it back away from the disk. And it does that because it is square cut, so when the piston is pushed out of the caliper the o-ring actually rolls or twists and then un-twists and brings the piston back when the pedal is released. But if the o-ring is hard it won't do that. Or if there's rust around the piston the spring action of the o-ring might not be enough to retract the piston, resulting in that brake dragging. However, if rust is the problem then I'd think the other side is going to be suspect. As will the rear cylinders. That three year sleep may have been the death of the brake system. So, you may need to do a full brake job.

Jim - I have some questions that I'm hoping will help me get my head around this so I can upgrade the write-up" Can you say more about that? Why won't the alternator adjust with the 7" ear-to-ear spacing? You mentioned the 7" e2e spacing in the first quote but said "90A" in the second quote. However both were talking about the small case alternator, which has 7" e2e spacing and originally was rated at 90 amps. Right? I just want to make sure I am following. Perhaps we should refer to these as the small-case and large-case alternators in the write-up as people are selling the small case with other output ratings than 90A? And, then you gave the part numbers for a small-case alternator that was used in certain '93 - '95 F-Series pickups. Do you happen to know more specifics about the pickups, like the engine and Lester # for those part #'s? Just thinking about updating that spreadsheet. Do you know the applications for the 7765? I've googled it and find bits and pieces of info, but it would sure be nice to find a good table that shows applications by Lester #. Then we could just refer people to that or copy that and put it on the page instead of having our own.

Did you get my email? Today I think?

Yes, there are two ways to do that. The high-tech way takes the tester that Bill and I have. But the low-tech way is as explained on pages 34 & 35 here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition-gasoline-engines.html, which is from the 1985 EVTM. However, you effectively did test it. It doesn't work and the other one does, so it is bad.

Yep about $38 a can. As for 1 can I have the dash to do and the 4 kick panels, maybe some other trim parts and maybe the storage tray that goes at the top of the windshield because it is alum. right now. Latex - yes in caulk as I thought it would have worked and it may have if the cracks were deeper. When I dug it out it was not vary thick, was sitting on top of the foam. I removed some of the foam to make the filler thicker thinking it may help. I was able to use a DA air sander on the seam sealer that was on it and I used the same stuff this time but that sealer has been on guessing a year or better so it has time to setup LOL. Yes sand build up and sand some more till level then texture and then SEM color coat. All this was after hour and a half of weed whacking today. I cut the grass yesterday for 3 hours and that was after a full day at work. Dave ---- LOL! Night before last Janey and I were awakened by a loud brushing sound, but we couldn't find it. Yesterday morning it was obvious - a LARGE limb had fallen out of the tree behind the house, missing everything. So I spent quite some time with my sawzall cutting it up and taking it out back to the burn pile. Then it was a lot of weed whacking in areas of the yard I can't get the mower into, and whacking tall grass is SLOOOOOW work. Then finish the mowing that I'd started on Wednesday, before getting the mower stuck. And after that I was TOAST! So I applaud you being able to get all the truck work done after all the weed whacking, mowing, and WORK! (My impression of Maynard G. Krebs.) Anyway, I guess the jury is still out on whether seam sealer is the thing to use. I/we await your assessment.

Sounds good. You are on the list now. As for the truck, I certainly understand. Big Blue's 11 MPG is off-putting. I can only imagine how bad yours hurts.

That's not a bad idea either Gary...I was trying to think of a way to bend the mounting ears, but your suggestion might just do the trick. I can mount the hinge(s) to a bench at work and then use a bar or a piece of pipe to bend them...or at least attempt to. Dave, I thought of doing angled shims to correct them, but the only problem with that is that it would push the bottom of the gate out a little bit. It might be OK, I'm not sure. I'm going to try bending them first...if that doesn't work I'll machine them, and if that doesn't work I'll shim them;). Thanks Gentlemen! Take a measurement of how far the "nose" of the hinge needs to move to be parallel, mount it up to the bench, measure what space you have there, and then bend it to the right distance.

You can see it in these pics. One pic makes the angle look more pronounced than it is...but it's bad enough it won't work. The problem is that the stake pockets I welded on were not bent 100% perfectly on that back side. You can't tell unless you know it's there...but it is obviously causing a problem with the hinge mounting. I think I'll get the mounting flanges machined on a bit of an angle to even them back out. I'll have the spare set done first and see how it works out. I see, said the blind man. Any chance that you can bolt one down to something and bend it by placing a rod in it for leverage?

For what its worth, I've not had an exhaust leak on Big Blue with the L&L headers. Not that I'm advocating headers, but these haven't leaked. Perhaps that's due to the 1/2" thick flange.

Wow, you had a long day! So the texture is like $38/can? Yipes! I hope one can will do a lot. On the dash, when you say "latex" do you mean a latex caulk? And you think you should have used seam sealer instead? Is your seam sealer sandable? You'll sand it smooth, re-apply, sand, etc until it is level? Then the texture goes on? And the brake fluid doesn't appear to hurt the plastic on the bezels, just takes the wood grain finish off?

Those things look really good. And I can't see the angle on the hinge of which you type. Which way do they angle?

Hump? What hump? Walk this way.