Gary Lewis

I think being respectful and staying away from profanity probably covers it. However, I'm not sure I can be respectful when it comes to politics, so I'd hope we steer far away from that. As for religion, I don't see that as being nearly the problem of politics. And most religious people are respectful, so perhaps it won't be an issue. We can post the few rules at the top of the to-be thread, but they'll get lost very quickly so I'm not sure that will be very helpful. Let's just be nice to each other.

Jim - I had to go back to the 3G Alternator Conversion page to see the context, which is: And I do see the problem. The "and some form of circuit protection is absolutely necessary" was intended for the output wire, not the sense wire. But the way it is written it seems to be saying that circuit protection is absolutely needed for the sense wire. So I like your upgrade, but maybe it should be something like: Obviously since we've suggested that the sense wire be wrapped back to the output we don't think protection on it is necessary, much less absolutely necessary. So I'm glad you caught that.

That is great info on that trans. Definitely what you have. I'm not sure where the "Clark" part comes from...maybe somebody else will know. Somebody did mention on here not all that long ago that they thought the Clark Trans thing was a mistake. As far as I know, in the Bullnose years the manuals are New Process, Warner, and Tremec...but it could be that the Tremec is also called "Clark"??... I think parts for it should be readily available from one of the many transmission shops? My guess is that the catalog is wrong and that Tremec was supplying transmissions well before 1980. I say that because I've done some searching and found some interesting tidbits, like this one from Hanlon Motorsports regarding TREMEC: And this from Tremec Blog: So it looks to me like transmissions that had been Clarks became Tremecs. But for whatever reason Ford's documentation didn't change?

Here is part of the Transmission Identification Chart. And there is no "E5TR" in it. And no "C" for Clark. And no "7006" anything, much less 7006-AA. I'm not at all saying that the transmission wasn't used, but it is either called something else or, more likely, was omitted from this version of the catalog for some reason. Anyway, you are now on the map. But, I've been to Emmaus. We used to live in Kennett Square and a group from church went up there. It seems like we went to see a monastery or something like that. And, if I remember, it was literally just off the road, right below the road. A really old community?

I hope you are a guest in my house one of these days, Jim.

It would be mighty lonely w/o y'all. It is OUR forum. Anyway, we have a new poll: What Do We Call THE HANGOUT? THE LOUNGE?

It has been suggested that we have a stickied thread to discuss off-topic things. Back in the day things. Who knows what things. But, what to call it? That's what this poll is for. I'll suggest a few and you can either vote for one of them or suggest another. If enough of y'all seem to like one of the suggestions I'll add it to the poll. Rules are you get one vote, but you can change your vote.

Jim - Authorize? Why do I have to authorize it? This is our forum. So, What do we call it? Back In The Day? The Lounge? Whatever? Off Topic?

I love it when a plan comes together!!!!! Looking GOOD!

That and the photos both help immensely...thank you! And I agree that it's D1DZ 6261883-A, and it sure looks like it requires two, but why would it only indicate quantity 1? One per side?

Welcome! Nice truck, especially for $800 and those new parts. Then, to say it runs is a huge bonus! Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map on the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you would give me a town and state. As for the Clark tranny, I assume your transmission code is B. Unfortunately I don't yet have any info on here about it. But, I'll see what I can find.....

Boy, that one was hard to track down. But I found E4TZ 1113-B in the brake parts lists, which don't show the application. However it is part of parts lists 6, 13, & 21, which I've highlighted here:

I think it is sneakily/poorly written. It says "NOS 1980 - 1987 FORD F100 F250 TAIL GATE CHAIN & BRACKET NUTS". And apparently it is just that - the nuts for the chain and bracket. N620482-S2 (AM—24—D)—nut & washer assy. M10-r/b N800152-S2

For people that are familiar with amplifying electrical signals, the difference between a TractionLok (or other clutch-type limited slip) and a TrueTrac ( or other gear type limited slip) is that the clutch types have bias and the gear types have gain. For everyone else, clutch-types have a set amount of friction between the two sides, so they can always send that amount more torque (the torque it takes to slip the clutches in the diff) to the tire that has traction. If the right tire supports zero torque the diff can send up to zero plus the clutch friction to the left tire. Gear types multiply instead of add. In the case of a rear TrueTrac I believe the multiplier is 3.5 (2.5 for a front TrueTrac, I don't know about any other brands). So if the right tire supports zero torque a TrueTrac will send zero times 3.5 = zero to the left tire. That's why I say TrueTracs work well as long as all tires get some traction, but they aren't as effective when one tire gets very little traction. In my one winter of having it in my pickup I've found it only a little better than an automatic locker at not spinning out if you're on the gas too hard in a corner, and quite a bit less effective than an automatic locker at getting you started with one tire on ice. But it is a lot more effective than an open diff at getting you started with one tire on ice, it has no bad manners (other than being easier to step out if you're on the gas in a slippery turn), and the manners don't get worse when towing. So personally I think I prefer an automatic locker over a TrueTrac for winter driving, but I do see why many would not due to the automatic lockers manners, and I'd lean pretty strongly toward the TrueTrac for towing. Good analogy, Bob. I understand it. And I know you've not forgotten as you told me, but for the others you can bring a TrueTrac into play by touching the brake. That raises the "traction" on the spinning tire above zero so the multiplier has something to work with.

Well done! Yes, you could sell those. When you need some you need some.

Well, we have a nice page on this: Interior/Interior Trim. And if you look at the illustrations you'll see that the part in question is 03598. Unfortunately the yoyo that created the page hasn't seen fit to include all of the part numbers. So, here they are, and there is a different one for with and without headliner. Having said that, Big Blue came with a headliner but I've pulled it out and I'm still using the same trim.

And, to confirm that, here are shots of the springs on Dad's seat:

Let's see if this new page helps: Interior/Seats & Seat Tracks. And I think you need D1DZ 6261883-A, but see what you think. Looks to me like it is the same spring both sides.

I can check the catalog later. Am out and about at the mo

Good point, Jim. 👍 We are out and about with the grandtwins today, so I certainly appreciate you staying on top of this. They may be going elsewhere tomorrow so I might have a chance to work on the page then. Or Thursday or Friday.

That’s an excellent buy in “flawless condition”. 👍

Yes. The trucks are the same from 1980 through ‘86, and F100 through F350’s.

I don't disagree with anything Gary said about gear ratio, but if you want to know what Ford said, the GCWR for a 6.9L diesel with auto trans and 3.55 gears in 1985 (according to the pages from the owners manual that Gary has filed for us ) is 12,000 lbs. Going to 4.10s ups it to 14,000 lbs. So if you care about ratings, taking 6000 - 7000 lbs (a guess) off for the weight of the truck, 3.55 gears are rated for a 5,000 - 6,000 lb trailer, and 4.10s a 7,000 - 8,000 lb trailer. As far as diff goes, if you drive in snow (and depending on where in Canada you are from I'd guess that's likely) I would strongly discourage you from going with a clutch-type limited slip (like the Eaton positraction that GM mostly used, or Fords TractionLok). Any time you go around a corner the tire traction needs to overcome the friction in the diff, otherwise the tires will skid. It can make you spin out even when coasting slowly around a corner. A stock open differential is the most stable driving on ice and snow, but obviously the worst at getting you started. If you think you need more traction there are options that won't hurt stability as much as a clutch-type limited slip (and likely will help traction even more). If you don't want an open diff, my first choice for a truck that will tow would probably be a TrueTrac (or other gear-type limited slip, there are a few other brands out now as well, but that's the best known). It doesn't have clutches to wear out and it doesn't try to drag tires around corners like a TractionLok. It doesn't help a LOT when one tire gets really bad traction (it's easy to spin one tire if starting with that tire on ice, but it does usually get you moving even then), and it will make it easier to spin out if you get on the gas too hard. But overall it's a really good compromise between street manners and traction. (I have one in the rear axle of my F-250) A selectable locker is another option. ARB is the best known, but OX and e-locker and probably a few others are also out there. They give you an open diff most of the time, but lock the two tires together with the flip of a switch (or pull of a lever). That gives you the best on road manners and the best traction when you need it. But they are more expensive and a little more complicated to install. And you need to engage and disengage them as required for traction and turning. (I have one of these in the front of my Bronco). An automatic locker is another option. Detroit is the best known, but Grizzly arguably has a stronger product, and there are lots of others as well, including "lunchbox lockers" that don't require a gear set-up to install. They offer great traction with no need to mess with engaging and disengaging. However they have the worst manners on the street of these three, and will spin you out very quickly if you get on the gas too hard on in a slippery corner. They also only drive one tire when you are turning (allowing the other to roll ahead faster). This is the source of the bad manners, and it's particularly an issue when towing, especially with a lighter tongue weight. Personally I don't mind the on-road manners that much (I've driven them through several Minnesota winters), so if I value the performance I'm very willing to live with them. But personally I wouldn't choose it for a truck that is primarily for towing, but I know there are others who still think it's great for that. (I have this in the rear of my Bronco, and had them in the rear of a CJ5 and an F-150). Bob - Good thoughts. On the TrueTrac, as you know I have them in both the front and back of Big Blue. And I've towed a bunch with it and never had a problem. In fact, the only problem I had was too much gas on a wet corner, which caused the rear to step out. But I've put down 4 patches of perfectly-matched rubber on the concrete when trying to pull down a tree, so they do work well. As for the towing specs, here they are. And for the first time ever I see that a manual transmission has a slightly higher tow rating than an auto.

And yet the Buggtruck thread continues to have good info added to it. Anyway, I hope to copy and consolidate some of that info into this thread soon so we can cuss and discuss it. Then I can add to our 3G page.

Bummer! I've wondered about placing some JB Weld on the end of an Allen wrench and placing it in the screw to be removed and letting it set up. Granted you'd have to figure out a way to keep it in place until it sets up, but might it bond to the screw well enough to get it out? Otherwise a left-handed drill bit or an EZ Out.