Gary Lewis

I used to travel a lot for work, so understand. Have a safe trip. The modification thing isn't too expensive - if you can find the right parts from a salvage. Pretty sure the ECU wiring will be stand alone, like there's a coolant temp sensor that goes to the ECU but another that goes to the gauge. So you can convert w/o causing problems. Anyway, hope you can get the stock system working properly. As for the ball joints, you are the one feeling it, so I'm sure you are right.

Don't push too hard. Life's meant to be fun, albeit with some bumps.

Sorry. Terrible thought. But the last two trucks I've acquired, Rusty and Big Blue, both had SERIOUS problems there. It is still a very sensitive spot in my mind.

Yeah, ask they why. Tell them my battery box will never fall of. And may never even come off. Was on short time and got out there with the blue bottle. Oh bummer! So I used it. Those 10-32's will never come out. Let's hope it is the valve cover and not the rear china wall.

Man, I slept a little while and all "this" happened! But it looks like you are doing well. New thread, good posts, lots of help.

This is why procedure should show that the plunger needs to be held out (or in) for any brake bleeding aside from while working on an already full system. Oddly enough, I found a post on FTE between two guys that were in my house 10 days ago. Start with Jim/ArdWrknTrk's post from 8 years ago and read down. You'll get to Scott/Kramttocs' post and then Chris/ctubutis' posts.

Interesting that your blue Loctite is in a red tube. My red Loctite is in a blue tube. Anyway, do you think the gasket was bad? You have the cast OMC valve covers, so they shouldn't have bent like the tin ones.

No! Those scruffy-looking trucks staring out at me were making my schizophrenia act up. And mine, too. Yeah, same here.

If you can get me a good pic of the hex head fastener I'll add it to the page.

Yippee! Now you can start installing some of that fancy powder-coated hardware!

There was a lot of variability in what was used. On our page for N610939, which is the screw that holds the arm rest support to the inner door panel, I wrote: And I put this pic below that:

I agree that the original design left a bit to be desired as it is way too easy for those parts to hit. So I like your mod. Looking forward to the pics thereof.

Boy, I need to get this info onto the website - after we move the website. This is an excerpt from what the catalog is referring to as Section R: And here's what the Standard & Utility Catalog says about it:

Yes, that's the non-EGR version. The flywheel, aka flex plate, bolts to the engine. The torque converter bolts to the flywheel. The transmission's input shaft goes into the torque converter with splines. Best way is to pull the inspection plate at the bottom of the transmission in front, and turn the engine over with a 15/16" socket on the crank and find the 4 studs that come through the flywheel from the torque converter and remove their nuts, one at a time. Then, with the rear driveshaft out and the rear transmission crossmember removed, pull the transmission/engine bolts and pull the transmission back, supporting it on a transmission jack. Then you can pull the engine. However, it is easy for the torque converter to stay with the flywheel if you pull the tranny back at a slight angle, and when it disconnects from the tranny there will be a shower of ATF. So if it was me I'd drain both the transmission and the torque converter before doing this. The torque converter has a pipe plug you'll see as you are looking for the nuts that fasten it to the flywheel.

Welcome! Think you'll have enough? I'll add that Disco # to my master parts catalog for the KZ entries, meaning every place it appears. Assuming of course that they work. Then, as I figure out how to do this those entries will become part of our documentation here.

I once did a pan gasket on a 351W while it was in the truck. Never again. Another guy I knew said he'd pour gasoline on his truck and light it before he ever did it again. But your mileage may vary. So I would recommend pulling the engine, placing it on a stand, and doing the job standing up instead of on your back with dirty oil not only dripping in your face, but getting all over the gasket. And that's especially true if you are changing out the intake. Speaking of the intake, I like the Edelbrock Performer. And stick an Eddy 1406 on top of that and you have a good combo.

Several times, in fact.

Then I suggest you contact Steve83 to see about buying his valve.

Jim - I was in IT in Conoco. But I do know a bit about the chemical makeup of gasoline, so was aware that toluene is a part of it. My point was that a full tank doesn't slosh and, in my case the two liquids didn't mix. Or, didn't mix thoroughly enough. However, 2-stroke oil is sticky and toluene is thin, so it probably mixed as the gas came in.

Looking good, Bill! I've never done it, but I've read about it many times. And what I see in your pics look spot-on.

Jim - I hope things mixed as you filled that tank. I'm remembering all too well dumping the appropriate 2-stroke oil in an empty tank and then filling it up with gas. Yep, the plugs fouled immediately. Chris - If the filter stays full then I'm thinking the carb is badly plugged. If I remember correctly that carb only has idle adjusting screws in the primaries, right? If so then that simplifies things. You aren't getting into the secondaries nor the enrichment circuit, so we have a problem with the cruise circuit in the primaries. I'm not nearly as experienced on Holleys as Bill or Jim, but I'd pull the primary bowl and see what's in there. Something is plugging the metering block, or the float is stuck, or ......

The dizzy looks fine, so I doubt it is the wires.And I think it has to be fuel given the way it dies and comes back. In other words, if the ignition quit and the engine kept spinning when the ignition came back there would be lots of backfires and booms due to the extra gas in the cylinders and exhaust.In fact, it quits so cleanly I think the idle circuit is what you are running on and the main circuit is plugged. But don't ask me how that can be when you have front and rear bowls.Also, I wish you'd have included a shot of that gas filter as the engine was dying and coming back. Does it remain full?

Two gallons? I hope the tank was almost full. Guess we'll know 'bout the water soon.

And now Google is finding " CHOKE COVER CLAMP SCREW (3)", which is in the Walker document on the Carter 1bbl page, in the file itself at http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/files/theme/CarterYFandYFA.pdf and not on the Carter 1bbl page. Perhaps it'll find it on the page later?

Ok, I'm officially bummed. In an effort to see if the issue is with tabs, aka "hidden content" in the Search Engine Optimization vernacular, I put the C6 document on my test page, not in a tab, and reran the Freefind indexing. And it does find bits and pieces from that document - but not on either the test page nor the C6 page, but the document itself in the Weebly directory. And Google still hasn't found any of it, but that doesn't surprise me as I've seen that take upwards of two weeks, although three days is more normal. So the jury is still out on this.