Gary Lewis

Good plan, Stan.

YIPES!!!!

I've not looked at that spot on a supercab, but surely they would have seam sealer there. I can't imagine them not having it, and can't see why installing it would be a problem.

And the locking hood latch that Kyle sent me worked with Dad's ignition key. I wonder if the hood latches have a more generic lock that only uses a few of the tumblers?

If you don't have to meet emissions testing then it is probably time to convert to DS-II. And I think you have the right list: Distributor: You can either go with a DS-II dizzy or a one-wire unit. But either way it should be one with either an adjustable vacuum advance or one set up for use w/o EGR as the Performer RPM intake doesn't have provisions for EGR - assuming you use the one you have. There's a discussion of one-wire advantages and disadvantages on the One-Wire tab here: Documentation/Ignition. Ignition box: If you go with a DS-II distributor then you need a blue-grommet ignition box. If so, I prefer a Motorcraft box. Wiring: If going DS-II then you'll need the harness that plugs into the wiring coming from the cab. But those are hard to find used, so perhaps pick one up from Painless, although those aren't cheap. But if you go one-wire you'll need a relay and you can make your own harness. As for the intake manifold, you don't have to go with a 4bbl. In fact, the 2150 you have would probably work, or you could pick up one that doesn't have the feedback function in it. But if you want to go to a 4bbl then you can use the Performer RPM. However it is biased toward high RPM instead of low RPM, which is not usually what trucks need. On the other hand, the 570 CFM Holley isn't a bad choice. Perhaps you should do the ignition conversion as well as remove the emissions stuff and then see if you want to upgrade to a 4bbl?

Got the frame boxes welded into the frame today. First, here's one of the welds. Sometimes you get lucky. And here are the boxes welded on. As previously said, I used a zinc-based weld-through primer before welding, and then touched it up afterward.

Excellent! Good news, Scott. $40 for a kit isn't bad at all.

I have something like that laying around here somewhere. But as the cigar lighter is always on, mine was always drawing current. Perhaps it isn't enough to be a problem?

David said Proverbs 11:22, which says: Like a gold ring in a pig’s snout is a beautiful woman who shows no discretion. Hmmmm, is a bull's snout about the same? Perhaps that would be about a man with no discretion? Grumpin - Worked on mine as well. Jim - It was EASY! We could probably put any pic in the center, although the bull's nose seems appropriate.

Welcome!!! Glad you joined! Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I had a town/city. Nice truck! I'll bet it is fun to drive. But I'm curious - is the front air bagged? But, I don't think you want to ask your technical questions here. Instead I'd open a thread in the main section where you'll get more exposure to others. Maybe start a thread about the truck. Does it have a name?

The bullnosebible domain is now forwarded to garysgaragemahal. In other words, if you type in www.bullnosebible.com you'll be taken the forum. So you can now use that URL on a business card.

I think Ron's suggestion of taking the tank off has a lot of merit. However, you may run into problems getting the nuts off the bed bolts, in which case it is possible to remove the tank by yourself. First, the tank has to be as empty as you can possibly get it. At about 8 lbs/gallon it doesn't take much gas to make the tank very heavy. Edit: David has pointed out that gasoline only weighs 6 lbs/gallon. Thanks, David! Second, you will need to lower the tank to the ground in a controlled fashion. That's because any gas that's in the tank, and there WILL be some, will rush to one end and make the tank almost impossible to hold if you try to man-handle it. Don't ask. The best approach I've seen used is multiple ratchet straps. Use two ratchet straps to hold it after you get to the end of the all-thread that is through the metal straps, and take out the metal straps. Then position two more ratchet straps so they will catch the tank and try to gently release the original ratchet straps. Keep alternating back and forth until you get it on the ground.

Hmmm? I believe that arrived about 3 or 4 years ago. Right, Gary? Steve - Keith Perry gave me that. And I'm chagrined that it still isn't up in the shop. What are you doing today? Want to hang it? Long story short, I was with Conoco and he with DuPont when DuPont bought Conoco. We worked together in the combined Telecommunications organization in Houston from '88 to '94, when I transfered to Wilmington and changed over to DuPont. Later DuPont spun Conoco off and Keith went with it. Then Conoco and Phillps merged and he was transferred to B'ville. Meanwhile I retired and we moved to town. First Sunday at church it was announced that Gary & Janey Lewis were visting and this guy gets up from what is now my seat and comes back to where I was sitting, which is now Glenn Reynolds' seat, and sticks out his hand. Hadn't seen him in 10 years, but I said "Hi, Keith!" David - You are probably right.

New valves, guides, and seals. No porting as he only does aluminum now. But he did back-cut the valves and did a 5-angle job.

Yes, it is curved to miss the firewall. But the heads were certainly swapped as they are the later F3's. And I'm really happy with that 'cause here's what Scotty said:

There will certainly be a redirect as there are probably lots of bookmarks pointing to garysgaragemahal and we don't want to break them. But I think having my name in the URL to the site is ...... ostentatious. And, it doesn't tell the user anything about what's within. I didn't think about that when this whole thing started. In fact, when I got the URL I didn't own a Bullnose truck. The site was all about my shop - the garagemahal. However, as I got into these trucks and the need for a documentation site grew apparent, I pressed the garagemahal URL into service for that. And now we have a forum, and a truck show, and..... So I do want to use the bullnosebible URL. But if you print using that the people won't be able to find it. Hmmm, I wonder if I need to redirect that to here? Then you could use that and it would work. As for the "s", I don't know. But I'm happy for there to be a redesign of the card, including a QR code somewhere on it - which is a cool idea. (Is there a way to make a QR code that looks like a bullnose truck?)

Jim - Here's the one I currently have. The first one, which is the one I printed, is a pdf. The second one is a doc. But when I reprint them they'll be different. It'll probably be bullnose bible. And by then I hope we are using bullnosebible.com. Anyway, you can download this one using the option in the dropdown on the lower right. You know, if someone wanted to design a really slick business card..... As for a single point of view, I've explained to many people the benefits of having a discussion on here. I certainly don't know much and get things wrong, so it helps a bunch to have a number of people chime in.

Jim - I don't know about where it bolts as this is the only pic I seem to have that shows it. But I'm thinking it does.

Are you wanting another of those to have a pair?

Id be interested in buying that 300. Also, would like to know your exhaust setup, as I have a true split exhaust header also. I also upgraded to a Chevy HEI. Be careful calling the duraspark ignition "crap"....im being light hearted, but just a warning, someone is likely argue with you about the ford ignition being crap.....with that said.....I run Petronix in other cars too. I dont do duraspark, its unneccessarily complicated in my humble opinion. HEI is drop in, run a 12v switched from the battery and set the timing, walk away and never think about it again.I'm not a purist that thinks that a Ford vehicle has to have a Ford ignition system. But there is one thing a DS-II does that HEI doesn't - retard the timing when cranking. The white wire signals to the ignition module that the starter is engaged, and the box is supposed to retard the timing slightly. But not all DS-II boxes have that functionality. When I got Big Blue his 460 was hard to start when hot. In fact, it kicked back pretty badly. But I remembered that some boxes don't have that feature and swapped to a Motorcraft box. From that point on the engine never kicked back when starting.

Dad would have said "If that's a compliment then I thank you." Seriously though, ND is a friend of mine and has been in my home. But more specific to the charge, he taught me all I know about the MPC. So to be compared to him is an honor. However, he's forgotten more than I know.

Bill - Interesting question. And one I tried to answer earlier today. The ID # on that strap is E7TE 17A084-CB. But that doesn't show up in the cross reference book. Nor does 17A084 show up in the catalog. And one of the many mentions of "strap" in the catalog have anything to do with lifting an engine. Further, a Google search for E7TE 17A084-CB turns up nothing. But that ID# shows that it is a Ford part. But that strap was on the back of the head on Huck, the 1990 F250. And yours was on the front? Does it have a number on it? Nor do the illustrations in the MPC show exactly that part. However, as shown below, there is a lifting point shown on the driver's side exhaust manifold on other engines, but not the 460. And even then there's no # for it. ENGINE ASSY. - TYPICAL1980/ 8 CYL. 255 (4.2L), 302 (5.0L), 351M (5.8L), 351W (5.8L) and 400 (6.6L)

Yes, he is. He did mine as well. And since I'll use that on Big Blue I'll have to have him do another for Dad's truck.