Jump to content
Bullnose Forum

Gary Lewis

Administrators
  • Posts

    40,729
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. Its the same configuration. Drivers side forward output shaft.
  2. You are now on the map. Hadn't heard of Somonauk, even though we used to live in Elgin. Anyway, now worries about not being good at tech, we'll help you through.
  3. I don't know the answer to the question, but have one of my own: Which side does the transfer case sit on the Chevy? Last I remember it is on the right and Ford's are on the left. If so, that's a bit of a problem.
  4. You emailed "NOS"? There's a company called NOS? That stands for New Old Stock, meaning new parts that have been in someone's stock forever, but I didn't know there's a company called that. If they don't, the guys on here sometimes turn up individual sections of it, but not a whole kit. So you'd be faced with piecing it together and hoping you'll finally find all the pieces. It isn't going to be easy - I think Rick said he spent years getting all of the pieces. You may never get a full set and yet have a chunk of money tied up in what pieces you find. Plus, if you were to get a whole set pieced together you wouldn't be able to replace a section if there was an accident. I fought that fight to get trim for Dad's truck, although it is different than yours. I got what is the last usable piece of 8' trim for the bed, and it was twisted. My paint/body man said he thinks he can straighten it, but it'll never be "right". Then I acquired Big Blue and he came with a perfect NOS piece of that trim so it'll go on Dad's truck when the time comes. But replacing it probably will never happen. I say all of that to say you should think about what trim you want to put on your truck. It is a long term effort to collect all the pieces needed, and you never know if you are going to get all of them. And if Rick is right, you won't.
  5. WelderScott has a '78 F150 and he's had it over to the shop several times. And while I've noticed a huge difference in size of the parts and thickness in metal, I can't say I've noticed a difference in quality. But, on the parts, just one example - his tie rods are the size of Big Blue's, and are much bigger than those on Dad's truck.
  6. In case Rick doesn't get right back, his truck had that trim originally, but when he had it repainted he found what he thinks is the last set of that trim NOS. And it is rare as it was originally offered in early '85 and then apparently dropped as an option. You can see the "early" and "late" 1985 brochures here (Documentation/Literature/1985 Literature) and the early has it on the cover and the late doesn't.
  7. Glad your wife found us. To find the map, on a phone the menu will be the three stacked bars, probably in the upper left. Click that, then click Bullnose Forum, then scroll down to Member's Map. I just made it easy for you by making that a hot link. However, I wanted you to know how to use the menu as you'll need it to get to all the documentation, and there are about 550 web pages of documentation, some of which have documents on them that are many pages long. Anyway, you can't add yourself to the map. But I can. Just give me a city (we don't use actual addresses so people can stalk us) and I'll add you.
  8. It's worth grabbing if the Bronco has it. Only takes 5 mins to remove. I took one out of a 1991 F250 for my truck but haven't installed it yet. If it has delay, there's a little black module up in the dash just above in the wiper switch. And you can tell because the wiper switch will turn one notch ccw of off, which is the delay position. At least that's the way I remember it.
  9. How did the seat belt turn out? If I remember correctly it was grossly dirty.
  10. Can you link this TSB (either my copy or yours) to that page? https://supermotors.net/getfile/491917/thumbnail/cruisetroubleshooting.jpg It's very important for any Ford vacuum cruise control. Steve - It isn't, but I'll make it so. Thanks!
  11. Try a lower gear when it does that. A gas problem usually is worse in a lower gear as it takes more gas then. But an ignition problem is better in a lower gear as it lowers the cylinder pressure.
  12. Dave - That plastic through the firewall has bitten me before as well. Glad you found it and fixed it. And I like the approach on the dash cover. Doing it out of the truck has to be better then in. Keep on keeping on!!!
  13. That should be Part # E0TZ 16720-CA and not E0TB-16B114-CB. The latter is an ID #, and if anyone is interested I can cross-ref the ID to PN. But it does look like the right one. And it is CHEAP!
  14. Dean - Welcome! Glad you joined. As for where we've been, we are only just over two years old. And we are now just over 500 users. So, where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to add you if you'd give me the city where you live. And '85 F250 w/a 460 sounds familiar. Where'd I hear about one of those? Oh yes! I was just working on one!!!!
  15. Dean - Welcome! Glad you joined. Oops, you've just run into the dumbness of this forum - it doesn't read the metadata in a pic and reorient the pic correctly. You'll have to open your pic in an editing app and then save it. Most apps read the metadata, reorient, and when you save it the new orientation gets saved with it. Sorry. As for where we've been, we are only just over two years old. And we are now just over 500 users. So, where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to add you if you'd give me the city where you live. And '85 F250 w/a 460 sounds familiar. Where'd I hear about one of those? Oh yes! I was just working on one!!!!
  16. Today I cleaned, primed and painted the frame horns, the welded-in frame boxes, and the engine crossmember. (The latter isn't really part of the SORD project, but since it had been repaired by welding a patch in it needed to be painted as well.) Plus I primed/painted the bolt holes both in the frame horns as well as where the rear spring hangers bolt on. I'd said I was going to use POR15 for this, but I realized today that there was a lot of paint left on and wasn't sure POR would adhere to that. Plus, there was essentially no rust, which it likes to bond to. So I just used rattle can primer and satin black paint. Maybe tomorrow I can get the SORD crossmember powder coated and then I can start the installation of all the bits and pieces.
  17. Welcome! Glad you joined. And, I'm sure you are worried about letting your 15 year old son on the internet, but this is a family-friendly forum. So after you get to know us you may decide to let him come on as well. Where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd love to put you on. Who knows, you may be a neighbor to one of us. On the 460, they didn't have a lot of "stuff" to take off. So you are going to need most, if not all of the electrical system. You can use the stock distributor as it was/is a DS-II system with no computer. And you will want the vacuum advance. However, if you aren't going to have EGR then you'll want to adjust that vacuum advance. The reason is that the inert gas introduced into the air/fuel mix via the EGR system slows the combustion process. Since that is only done during periods of high vacuum they dial up a lot of advance through that system. But w/o EGR you will probably have too much advance at part throttle and may get pinging. Some of the Ford vacuum advance units are adjustable by inserting a really small Allen wrench in via the vacuum port. But if yours isn't Crane makes one that is. And it comes with instructions on how to adjust it.
  18. Got the engine crossmember and frame horns cleaned up, primed, and painted today. Oh, and I got the areas where the rear spring hangers bolt on painted as well since they'd been banged up a bit in getting the old hangers off. Plus there were bare holes in the frame. Decided to just go with a good metal primer and semi-gloss black, both from rattle cans, to do this instead of POR15. There just wasn't enough to warrant the POR15, and no real rust for the POR to adhere to. So this made the job faster and easier.
  19. Bolt (Spare Wheel) 80/82 F100/350 — in box carrier EOTZ 1408-L l/2"-13 x 5" - use with all 15" & 16" tires and with 8.00" x 16.5" tires
  20. Actually, there was a truck almost identical to Rick's that sold recently, and I believe it was in the Southeast somewhere also...SC or GA maybe. Did anybody see this one? It was even red too... I don't know how I could even find it now, but I'm pretty sure it sold... Another reason for the "sales historian" - being able to find the info when we need it.
  21. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=D6A59E4A8552531DE8FC03680EA642B8D5FB2D6C&thid=OIP.ySvBCEkOYjdnus4EpZGWfgHaFN&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.stangtv.com%2Ffiles%2F2011%2F02%2Fd6al.jpg&exph=450&expw=640&q=msd+6al+wiring+diagram&selectedindex=2&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6 Thanks, David.
×
×
  • Create New...