Gary Lewis

For the '87 and later: Battery Carrier or Tray: E7TZ 10732-A r/b F4TZ 10732-B Clamp: E7TZ 10718-B (Perhaps not "rubber") Brace (Battery Tray) E7TZ 10N697-A And here's a better snag of the illustration to include the brace part #: And here's a shot of Big Blue's current battery tray on the left, and the to-be battery tray on the right. Note that the Bricknose tray will use the same bottom two bolts as the Bullnose, and will just take another hole in the fender for the brace However, it is close to the relay so that probably ought to move.

1987 and later. They mount as shown below with a brace that goes up to the fender. And, they secure the battery at the bottom with a rubber clamp instead of the piece at the top that always corrodes. But, the brace goes VERY near the starter relay, so that probably needs to be moved. Or eliminated by using a PMGR starter and a HD Bosch-style relay, which is what I plan to do.

Oh, two other things. First, I won't have a 302 bracket. Second, here's another illustration of the parts of which we type:

Are you referring to the 3C511 bracket in the picture below? I believe it is different between the 351w and the 302. As far as I know, the cast aluminum 3A372 bracket is the same on all of them (and a zillion other Fords), but that steel bracket varies. Gary will correct me if I'm wrong. Here's a picture of my 302. You can see that the steel plate on mine wouldn't work on a 351w when the bolt hole in the head moves up by 1/2". (At least I don't think it would). Cory - I think you are right. 3C511 is different between 302 and 351W. In the snippet below you can see that the little Windsors, the 255 and 302, take E2BZ 3C511-A. And the "B" indicates it came from a car not a truck. But the 351W takes E4TZ 3C511-C. So the question to Darin is which bracket, or brackets, do you need? Both?

Cory - My reading, and very limited experience, shows that 38 - 42 degrees is about right on a small-block Ford - for the initial and centrifugal together. But, as Jim said, Bill's the guru on this. But if what you are looking for is more low-end torque and a bit better MPG, then it isn't really the total advance that needs to change, but the rate at which it comes in. I say that because most systems will have the total in by something like 2600 R's. But that's not "low-end". So what you want is to have it come in faster - and maybe farther. However, the Ford dizzy is a pain to change the advance curve on, so if you are in there changing anything, change both the rate as well as the total. Jim's favorite instructions, and mine as well, are these from Crane. They show you the order in which to dial in your advance, meaning intial/centrifugal/vacuum, as well as how to do it. And they have some suggestions on how much and how fast.

The wiring for the aux battery is best shown on these Charge & Power Distribution - Gas Engines pages of the 1985 EVTM. You'll want to see the illustrations on Page 14, and then the main wiring is on Page 15. But the aux battery itself as well as the relay is shown on Page 20. As you'll see, they used a large yellow wire that is probably already in your truck. It ends below the steering column in the engine compartment. Then you'll need a relay, but the wiring to pull it in is probably already there as well. But the aux battery tray won't be there. It is shown on this page in Documentation/Fasteners & Illustrations/Front Clip/Fenders & Aprons. And that's on the driver's side. But the later battery holders are much stronger, as Jim points out. I'm going with at least one of those on Big Blue's transformation. But, since I will have an air cleaner box and power distribution box to fill the left fender, I may have to move the aux battery to the right side. Hopefully two of the latter battery trays can be used for that.

I guess I just haven't run into it.

Darin - I'll look tomorrow as I might have one. But it looks like that is part number D8AZ 38732-A. So that means you should be able to find it in a '78 or '79 truck as well as any 1982 or later truck with a Windsor.

Now that it is running well I'd leave it. And if you start having problems you should look for a cracked vacuum hose. As you know, you have 4.3 miles of it under the hood, and all of it is OLD! By the way, that is a GREAT LOOKING truck!

Scott - Good questions. Was just wondering that yesterday as I took off the ground cable on Big Blue and thought "That's not very big." And if I have to move the aux battery to the passenger's side I'll have to have new cables. How are you going to make them? I have a 16 ton hydraulic crimper and it works great if you feed it the good Magnalugs. I made all new battery cables for both batteries on our boat and used 2-0 marine cable. They came out great, and I might consider using that size for my cables. On the isolator for the aux battery, that circuitry is best shown in the 1985 EVTM on the Charge & Power Distribution - Gas Engine pages. There's even a depiction of the stud you talked about as well as the relay. But there's no true fuse, just a fusible link. On the grounds, don't forget the one from the engine to the firewall. And while you are at it, you might add grounds from the fenders to the radiator support and from the cab to the fenders. I think Ford did that in later years, but Jim or Bill might tell us different.

Looks like you are going to get it done. But I've not seen a production use of a u-joint with different sized caps. In fact, the snippet from the master parts catalog, below, seems to say Ford didn't use u-joints with differing cap sizes. Otherwise they'd have to have "D1" and "D2". I'm wondering if someone has installed a larger axle in that truck. As for the splined joint, I had to put a chain through the u-joint eyes and put the other end around my lift's leg, place the differential on a cart, and roll the cart hard several times to get the stub shaft out of the diff on Dad's truck. But you may find something in the section from the factory shop manual on the Front Drive Axle in Documentation/Driveline and then the Front Axles/Instructions/Dana 44 tabs.

I've added two pages: • TSB 90-25-12 Speed Control: It is in Documentation/TSB's/Electrical/Climate Control/Starting/Charging. • Tape And Decal Application: David found Ford's instructions on how to properly apply decals and tape stripes. It is in Documentation/Exterior/Tape And Decal Application. And I added a link to the new TSB on the Speed Control page.

Jim - How are you going to "address" that? Weld? Ahhh! Got it. I'll bet that'll work.

Ok, I was WRONG!!!! Anyway, here are the transmission covers through '88:

Same with my stripper '84. The rubber mat basically ends just past the front bolts for the bench seat. I do plan to replace mine at some point, but since I have the 5spd swapped in, I'll need a rubber floor from a 1988-1996 truck. My 81 custom was the same, firewall to front bolts on seat. Now I thought the floors were different if auto (flat hump) or stick (high hump)? I think for that price & no padding I would go with carpet & padding and be able to hear myself think LOL Dave ----- I think the floors were the same height. The tall hump, or transmission cover, came after the Bullnose era when the ZF5 came along. (Like the one Shaun sent me years ago.)

This I gotta see! Did you cut things out with a sawzall and then put a brace across the hole? Pics or I'll think the worst.

Eric - Glad you are here. This is a Bullnose site, but we don't discriminate. In fact, several on here either don't have a Bullnose or have converted there's to something later. Or converted something later to a Bullnose. Glad you told us where you live. Would you like to be on our map? Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. I can add you. So this was your grandfather's truck. Cool! I have grandkids that I hope will take care of what I pass down to them, so I like the story. But I have to ask - how can you have 2 1/2 dogs?

By the way, there's a salvage near me that is closing its doors and I've been planning to go spend the day soon. I'll put those brackets on the "take" list if I find them.

And today I media blasted the SORD crossmember and powder coated it. Then I installed it as well as the two rear shackle hangers and torqued all the fasteners. I was hoping to get the springs hung today, but I discovered that I've missed powder coating a couple of parts, and I ran out of time anyway. So maybe tomorrow I can get that done and then, maybe hook up to the D60.

It isn't safe to say that if the pump gets power the sending unit will. Those are sourced by two different wires and different contacts in the switch. So the pump could be bad. But it is very possible the selector valve isn't working. Those things are notorious for that. If it were me, I'd pull the line from the front tank where it goes into the selector valve and see if the pump is working. If so, it is the selector valve.

There you go and welcome to the forum. Dave ---- Good job, Dave!

Eric - Welcome! This is an interesting project. Several things. First, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to put you on if I had a city. Second, it helps us help you if you'll create a signature that tells a bit about yourself and your truck. We like calling each other by name as that makes it feel more friendly, so having "Eric" in the sig will help us do that. And, by having info on your truck it'll help us answer the questions you ask more accurately. And, most people introduce themselves in the New Members Start Here folder. While that's not a requirement it helps us get to know you. Last, it helps us know about your truck if you put the pics in the post. I'll do one for you, but if you just put your cursor on the links you sent above and copy the link address you can then click "Insert Image" and paste the link where the http is and chose "Big" and hit "Insert Image".

Dean - No problem, it happens a lot. I've moved the posts over here. This way you'll have the history in your own thread. As for your mirrors, I think they are swing locks. But you should confirm that yourself. Go to Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Mirrors , scroll down on the Types tab and you'll see that you have Type 9 mirros. (Don't sweat that yours are rounded and those in the illustration are rectangular. The illustration is of the early ones and you have the later ones.) Then go to the Part #'s tab and scroll down to Type 9's and you'll see they are "swing locks".

Dean - Several things. First, you are asking questions about your truck in Rick's thread. I'd like to move it to your 1985 F250, 4x4, 460 - 2nd Owner! thread, if that's ok with you. Second, you are responding via email so it brings in lots of extra stuff, so I'll have to strip that out when I quote it. Not sure if you are aware of the difference between posting in the forum vs responding via email. Anyway, here's your post w/the extraneous stuff stripped out: And here's the info from the master parts catalog. Looks to me like you have it right, assuming you have an 8' bed. As for your question about the mirrors, your picture in the first post of the thread is so small I can't tell. And when I try to blow that pic up it is so blurry I still can't tell. Do you have a better pic?

It is always less expensive to pick up a project with lots of parts in it, or even a finished project, than it is to create it yourself. In my guestimation the best people get is 50% of what they spent. And that's usually when the project is completed. But far less than 50% if the project is in pieces. And a truck with all those goodies is gonna be fun! You just have to peel the onion, cry, peel, cry, etc. But some day you'll have a Bloomin' Onion!! As for the Gear Vendors OD, that was not an option from the factory. Doesn't show in any of the catalogs or brochures. So that badge is from GV, not Ford. On the wiring, YUK!!!!! I hate quick splices. To me the only way to properly join wires in a vehicle is to solder them and cover the joint with adhesive-lined heat shrink. (I do acknowledge that the proper crimper can make a good solderless joint, but few have the proper crimpers. Nor do they use the good connectors.)