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Gary Lewis

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Everything posted by Gary Lewis

  1. I bought a crimper like this one from Amazon a few years ago for battery cables. It works great, although its die are metric and the lugs we buy are inch-sized. However, I've found that Magnalug brand lugs work well, and I use the closed-end ones. For smaller stuff I have a ratcheting crimper, but I prefer to solder. (Crimping may well be better for things with lots of vibration, but soldering has not failed me yet on a car or truck.) And then I cover either the soldered or crimped connection with adhesive-lined heat shrink as Jim suggested. At that point all of my joints are water-proof. As the others said, air bags or helper springs are the way to carry more load, not springs on the shocks. And speaking of shocks, I'm running Bilsteins on Big Blue, but Dad's truck has Monroe SensaTracks. I put those on when I got the truck and they made a huge difference in the way it rode and drove.
  2. Yes, and there's a groove in both spindles where the seal has been riding. And that's why I want a speedi-sleeve.
  3. A piece of thick-walled tubing would work. It would have to be pretty strong tubing, but if it had the right ID to be tapped to then screw onto the original end link it would be easier than starting with a rod. As for the panhard rod, I don't know when they started using them. But my reading says that w/o a track bar the frame/body moves when you try to turn, not the tires & axle. And, it is possible to get into a death wobble. But that's just what I read.
  4. Thanks. Now I know which one. Let us know what works, please.
  5. You are right, #14 is the seal. But there's another part that I don't see in the illustration. Or maybe I'm tired. I'll get a pic tomorrow and lay all the parts out in the illustration's order. I have the Timken catalog open, and it isn't showing it either.
  6. Did you get a pic of the rivet? And what are you going back with to replace it?
  7. I've just ordered most of the parts for the wheel bearings and seals - all Timken. Specifically I have ordered #'s 2, 3, 4 13, 12, 7, & 8 from the drawing below. However, I need two more parts I haven't been able to find, so need your help. First is a seal saver/speedi-sleeve/repair sleeve, meaning the thin ring that you put on a hub to correct for a groove in the hub where the seal has rubbed. The hub diameter is 2.75", but I've not found a repair sleeve to fit. Second, I need #14 in the diagram, the "grease retainer". But I haven't found it either. Help!
  8. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-F150-F350-BRONCO-NOS-BLACKDRIVERS-Side-Arm-Rest-Pad-E0TZ-1024101-A9A/372666110315?hash=item56c4a1916b:g:Gc0AAOSwG~hc0cno $60 for a NOS one doesn't seem too bad. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-FORD-BRONCO-F100-F250-ARM-REST-PAD-RIGHT-HAND-COLOR-NUTMEG-NEW-OEM/302883511132?epid=21017021747&hash=item4685439b5c:g:x0IAAOSwfntbm-jx Nutmeg https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-1980-1986-F150-Truck-Pickup-Bronco-Arm-Rest-Pad-1981-1982-1983-1984-Org/123271924688?epid=1277476769&hash=item1cb3944bd0:g:quUAAOSwL9paw-Ky Caramel https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-1980-1986-F150-Truck-Pickup-Bronco-Arm-Rest-Pad-1981-1982-1983-1984-Red/122142230787?hash=item1c703e8903:g:IyQAAOSwFV9X0x4q Red https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-FORD-BRONCO-F100-F250-ARM-REST-PAD-RIGHT-HAND-COLOR-NUTMEG-NEW-OEM/161459822449?epid=21017021747&hash=item2597c15f71:g:530AAOSwQJ5USBQT Nutmeg https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1981-1982-FORD-F100-F250-F350-ARM-REST-PAD-RH-RED/191070064569?epid=1617939509&hash=item2c7ca9cfb9:g:xYYAAMXQVT9S84b1 1980 Red LMC reproductions: https://www1.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/armrests/fd-1980-86-padded-armrest-sets
  9. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1986-Truck-Pickup-Door-Panel-Bronco-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-O/122389950881?epid=591050982&hash=item1c7f0271a1:g:XmcAAOSwCU1YtLZn $219 and it is cracked????? https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1986-Truck-Pickup-Door-Panel-Bronco-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-R/142221171692?hash=item211d0adbec:g:Gw8AAOSw44BYUxQQ E1TZ-A1B should be Blue, but it doesn't look blue. And, it the color is coming off or has been scratched off, which is unusual. So for $249 I'm sceptical. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1986-Truck-Pickup-Door-Panel-Bronco-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-B/123383295655?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D60710%26meid%3D5aa36628750d4a74975e8811e0833c38%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dpf%26sd%3D142221171692%26itm%3D123383295655%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 This is NOT an E3TZ-B5D. The catalog doesn't show what color B5D was in '83, but that doesn't matter as this thing has the cutout for the 1980-81 slide locks so clearly isn't an '83. And it is damaged. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-FORD-TRUCK-RH-DOOR-PANEL/293266921124?hash=item44481216a4:g:lcYAAOSwf9ddm1C2 Pretty!! This is an '80 panel with the pad by the arm rest. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1981-and-up-Ford-truck-door-panel-brown-driver-side-E1TZ-OEM/192420991227?hash=item2ccd2f50fb:g:5ooAAOSwuIlaUrD7 The rare Nutmeg color! The following is for medium duty trucks [F600/800] https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-FORD-TRUCK-RH-DOOR-PANEL/293266921124?hash=item44481216a4:g:lcYAAOSwf9ddm1C2 This is the same as the '80 one with the pad, two notches above.
  10. That is not an E5TZ 15044D70-K. That part number would be for: 85/86 F150/350, U150 - - w/radio, w/o clock, w/nameplate holes wood grain finish So this is in the wrong box. Or, maybe the problem is that someone wrote the wrong thing on the right box. My guess is that this is: E5TZ 15044D70-J 85/86 F150/350, U150 - - w/o radio, w/o clock - medium gray metallic finish-w/o bright bead.
  11. Correct for only some of the VV's, and what I see in the catalog doesn't agree with the advertisement. Should only be used with these carbs: Tag code E2TE-CAA.DKA Tag code E2TE-CCA,CCB,CCC Tag code E3TE-BVA Tag code E1TE-AHE Tag code E1TE-YA
  12. Scott - The instructions are already on the site: Documentation/Interior/Steering Columns and on the Instructions tab.
  13. Would the section from the factory shop manual help? I can put it on the site this evening if so.
  14. I don't know how long they've been available, but they are available via this Google search. Scotty may not know that Google will eventually find things even if you don't show them in the menu, and you have to take special precautions to ensure they aren't found. Anyway, I think sending a dizzy to him would be well worth the cost.
  15. I've been working on my list of stuff to order, like ball joints and wheel bearings. But I wanted to get something tangible done today so grabbed the engine perches and the 1/2" fastener assortment and started installing them. As it turned out I didn't have enough of the 1/2" x 1" G8 fasteners, so I put them in with what I had and will go back and replace them and torque things up when I get the right ones. Here they are from below. Think the driver's side one has enough fasteners? When I got the truck the driver's side only had two fasteners to the crossmember, and they weren't tight. And the ones to the frame were wonky. And they were small. All are being upgraded to 1/2" G8. And here's a before and after. Can you figure out what changed? Which do you like better?
  16. Your links are probably from some place he's posted them on another forum. He was happy for us to have the links. No problemo.
  17. Just talked to Scott re the distributor pages. They are on his new site, but the reason they don't show in the menu is that they are in the for-pay/member's section. However, he sometimes posts links to them on other forums to save himself from having to type in all that stuff to answer a question, so he's happy for us to have the links as well.
  18. The above is what we see. You said nothing but responded via email, which brings in all of the other "stuff". What were you wanting to say?
  19. You are responding via email but posting on the forum. To email Jim just click his "handle" and click "Send Email To ArdWrknTrk".
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