Gary Lewis

Guys - I'm hung up on ordering ball joints and tie rods/ends. I know at least Brandon and Shaun said to stay away from Moog, but Rock Auto has them as their best sellers in the Premium category. And all the others they list have plenty of bad posts about them.However, I did find one brand, XRF, that may not have the same bad rep that the others have. Do any of you know about XRF?If those aren't good I'm about to order Moog. What's the worst that can happen?

Good choice! I like the wheels and the tire/wheel combo looks good on the truck.

I’m happy to document, but am out and about at the moment and can’t look at the catalog. Y’all discuss this and I’ll check when I can.

Soooo what your saying is if you built out a 300 and slapped an aftermarket EFI system on it like a FiTech or Holly sniper etc you could tune it to ramp up fuel delivery only when needed thus saving some MPGs, but allowing you to be silly when you wanted to. Maybe. Depends on if the EFI system supports boost. If it does you could have your cake and eat it too.

I think the same part fits both columns. Here's the whole listing from the MPC, and nothing is said about tilt or non-tilt:

Yes, it can go out the exhaust. Or down the firewall, either inside or out. Or, out under the cap, maybe on the engine side where you can't see it. I had this on Big Blue.

Tom - Several thoughts. First, we have info on the VV here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carbs, Chokes, & EFI and then 1985-86 Fuel System Adjustments Motorcraft 7200 VV As for the intake, to properly use a 4bbl carb you need a 4bbl intake. Yes, there are adapters, but I wouldn't do it. And if you are going to do it I'd recommend the Edelbrock 2181 and the Eddy 1406 carb. However, the 2181 is a non-EGR manifold, and if you are going to run EGR you'll need the 3781 intake. Concerning the computer, luckily that's a stand-alone system so you can remove it and its associated wiring and sensors/actuators. To do so you'll need a DS-II distributor, the blue-grommeted DS-II ignition box, and the associated wiring harness. Sometimes you can find the harness at the salvage or on-line used, but here's a new one that's listed in our Resources section: https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/ford-duraspark-ignition-harness?gclid=Cj0KCQiA28nfBRCDARIsANc5BFD_eKOARtxGxIk1pR2_K-UZ_RaPLfITW53XclvWK_9hQhk7J96C8c0aAvyYEALw_wcB

Gary, I took the truck to go see my folks today so I didn't get any troubleshooting done per se...BUT...on two occasions today, I was cruising along one time at maybe 45 mph and another time at 70 mph, and when I pushed the clutch in while slowing down the engine would not idle. I had to feather the throttle a bit to keep it running, and then a minute later it idled just fine again. Is that a sign of anything related to my idle issue? Only change made since yesterday was that I dialed the choke back so that it worked again. Also, I did let the truck warm up using the choke, and still nothing showing up on my AFR gauge. Not a proper test really, as it was a lower RPM choke setting, so I doubt the choke plate was closed all the way. I'll get some more tests done this week. Thanks guys. Did you have the brake on when the engine wouldn't idle? I'm wondering if the vacuum booster has a split in it. Sometimes it seals and sometimes it doesn't?

That part is the one highlighted below:

I may have an extra piece and it is yours for the shipping, but I can't get to it for at least a week.

Bill's the guru, but those plugs are awfully white. I would expect a light tan residue on most of them if properly jetted. Or, maybe I should say with the proper AFR. As for ghosts, the fact that it won't idle down below 750 RPM is not a ghost. You should be able to kill the engine by closing the throttle plates, even when the idle air/fuel mix is spot-on. That says to me that it is getting air somewhere other than the carb. And I think your new wide-band meter is telling you the same thing, although being new it is suspect. So I'd leave it out of the pic at this point and see if you can figure out if you are getting extra air and where from. Car cleaner!

WOT the whole time? Yipes! The windshield surround is the same. Do you want new, used, or well used?

Typically the lifters are the last thing served by the oil system, although I'm not sure about the 300. So too thick of oil would slow it getting to the lifters and cause a tick. But I would have thought it would have take really thick oil to do that. Anyway, glad you got it fixed.

No, we couldn't see the pic, just the link.

Seems like it was a good day. You got lucky on the wheel coming off. And a new battery. Plus the vent windows. But on the rear window, don't the fixed and slider windows use the same seal? Are you thinking you'll need a new seal when you put the slider in?

Corey Marshall, the manager of 4wd Parts here in Tulsa has an Excursion with a Powerstroke that he overlands. Says he gets 20+ MPG on the highway.

Not sure if you had time to watch the entire video. But it is a very well though out design. I looked up the wood species they make the nails from. Its very hard. and the Fir they use in the walls is softer than the nails. There is no need for insulation. He said a 1" board has an R value of 1.4. So for a typical 8" wall, that is R11.2. Or an R14 for a 10" wall. The structure is much more air tight that a normal wall, so the heated air inside tends to stay inside. This construction technique is much more practical for my garage floor. 1st, I wouldn't have to make 6560 6" x 6" x 3" thick wood pavers. I've run the calcs based upon my standard yield for a typical 10' long log. I would get about 38 6" x 6" pavers per log. That is 172 logs!! I could easily reduce the thickness of the floor with a laminated style, 3 layer thick construction method like this one in the video. Thus reducing the total material (logs) needed. I cut 4/4 Pine boards the other day for the handrail. I believe just 2 layers of 4/4 boards would hold my lift with the biggest truck I could fit on it. Especially if I found oak or some other hardwoods to make the floor from. Also, It is much less labor to produce a bunch of 4/4 thick boards. They literally come right off the mill. I would then stack and let air dry for a couple months. Then lay the floor. It would go down much faster than a paver floor. Biggest downside: Lower layers, if they rot, its a pain to replace. I think I can engineer around this. Base = clay subsoil compacted (done), 4" gravel (done), leveling sand, vapor barrier (already have enough), then two layers of 4/4 boards, or maybe 2 layers of 3/4 boards. Total thickness somewhere around 6/4 to 8/4. Leave 2" gap around the building toe plates for expansion and contraction. I watched the vast majority of it. And I agree that slabs will be much easier than pavers - initially. But replacing them won't be. So the question becomes how often, if ever, you'll have to replace the flooring.

Check out this TSB: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/97-03-10-frame-creakingpopping.html. So far almost every truck I've checked has had a loose huck bolt.

Right, Jim. FTE doesn't share like other sites do. Anyway, have you tried the decoder here? Documentation/Specifications/Rear Axles. Or Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials. But I do think you have it figured out.

Bottom to top: Good idea on the admin from the other forum. The guy you met in September. I've talked with him about this kind of thing before, but not the specifics. I will. As for transparency in removing posts, if we get on it quickly before someone else posts it is easy and clean. Not so later, and it can become very tedious. Concerning email, if we remove the offending post then we could wait a few days before the member gets back to us. In the interim we might want to put a temp ban on so that member isn't posting on another thread and, possibly compounding the problem. Thanks.

I haven't seen that before. In fact, I'm not sure I've figured out how it works. It looks like it uses a coiled spring, maybe over a shock, to prevent the rear half of the leaf spring from opening up.

Ok, so email notification isn't going to be a good avenue via which to contact the member in question. And leaving the offending post for however long it takes for the poster to correct it isn't a good approach. So, maybe we need to immediately move the post to quarantine, which is good because when you move a post you also get the responses to it. But that requires the admins to be very involved. Keep those thoughts coming, please.

Interesting! Wood nails? No insulation?

If there are idle circuits would there not also be idle mix screws in the metering block? So, if he has the screws he has idle circuits, and if no screws no idle circuits?

I sit corrected. Obviously, Holleys are not my forte. So, Bill, are there idle circuits in the secondaries on his carb?