Gary Lewis

That was Monday. Is it on yet? If so, how's it feel?

How hard was it to get in there and weld the nut? Was there plenty of room?

I don't think it is as much who pulled it from the line, but who has played with it since. In several of the Amazon reviews the box had been opened previously, and one of the u-joints had actually been installed. Another didn't have the boot. Another didn't have the grease fitting. And so on. Given Rock's less-than-friendly approach to returns I'm betting none of these have been played with since leaving the line.

Good to know, Steve. 👍 Has it been two years? Wow! Tell both girls SNS tonight. 😎

No progress on the tank. I'll get Big Blue running and then tackle that. But I will have to decide if I'm going with the engine-driven compressor or an electric one before I get to that point. The engine-driven one will require a serpentine pulley and a bracket made, and doing the bracket and mounting the compressor will be easiest before the radiator support, radiator, grille, etc are installed. As for fiberglass dust, I've killed several tools with that. It is awful!

That front bumper has been treated poorly. What are you going to do now? As for the door pocket, the carpet will keep the tape measure quieter. And the estimate pad won't care about color.

I think your post puts a different spin on the original question. At the time that was questioning whether an air compressor was needed in a shop, not a vehicle. But to your point about overlanding vehicles, I do think some form of air is a big benefit - but mainly for airing up tires and not for air tools. I say that because my battery-operated tools are more than adequate for the vast majority of tasks. In fact, it is rare that I have to turn to my air impact gun. So I'm happy to take them on my upcoming overlanding trips. But, I do want onboard air for those trips as well.

I wonder why they changed?

Well spotted. Besides, a diesel Bronco?

80/86 F100/350,U150 (RH) EOTZ 1021448-A

Heretofore I've been lucky with Amazon. But with all I read about other's problems, and the delayed delivery dates, it just wasn't worth the slight cost savings to go with Amazon over Rock Auto.

Hello, Keith! Glad you joined us. Hope you'll show us some pics of your truck.

Sounds like a good plan, Stan.

These are for 4wd 1980 - 88 F150's and Broncos. But NOT F100's, F250's, or 350's as the advert says.

Wow, details, details, details. Lots of little details. But it is coming together!

That's exactly what I did on the ball joints. And, I ordered them from Rock Auto for two reasons. First, because their delivery date was several days before Amazon's. Second, because most of the poor ratings for these ball joints were not for the ball joint itself but for Amazon or their partner. In most of those cases the parts were either the wrong thing in the right box or were missing a part, like a seal or a zerk fitting. And in most, if not all of those cases, the boxes had been previously opened. We shall see.

Adjusting the back windows sounds complicated. Glad you got them done. And breaking everything loose w/o breaking anything, or bending it, seems like a chore. Glad that went well. So, when are you painting it? And, are you doing the painting yourself?

382802-S2 (MM-173-JB)-nut-hex. lock—3/8"— 16

Check the u-joints and the splines on the driveshaft - if yours has them. The easiest way to check the splines is to try to move the driveshaft side-to-side and the joint. It shouldn't move, but those splines don't always get lubed and can wear badly.

I was gritting my teeth staring at the oil pressure gauge while I listened to that defiant lifter that sounded like it wanted to leave the truck! Ugh I hate that. I adjusted the choke the other day and really just stuck it in a random position, and low and behold it works almost perfectly where it is now. I swear I could not have set it that good if I actually attempted to make it work that good. Still, need to investigate the vacuum issue. Going to try some map gas around the carb today. Try the gas around the base of the carb awa the manifold/head interface.

You are now on the map. By the way, your last post was via email, and that works. But it also brings in a lot of "stuff" that clutters up your thread. You might want to take a look at the thread by logging in to see if you want that "stuff" in there. If not, just click on the link in the email notification you get and that will take you to the forum and post from there. No "stuff".

It sure looks GOOD!

Keith - Welcome to the forum. Please don't miss the request in the email you were sent to go to the New Members Start Here folder and read the guidelines. Those are important as abiding by them is required to be a member. I'm not up on the lift kits so will let the others answer that one. But where's home? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if you would give me a town/city.

One wheel goes a direction you are not trying to go with the truck? Shaun - I'd looked at the Dynatracs, and while they look very good, they are four times the cost of the others. And, since I'm hard put to believe none of the others are good, I'm not ready to spend that much. Jim - I agree. That's the worst, and it isn't all that bad. Janey asked how hard it is to replace them. And as I thought through it, that's a pain but not expensive. Pull the wheel, remove the shock, support the axle, and pull the ball joints. Gotta buy tonight so I can get started on the installation. Any last suggestions?