Gary Lewis

The really rare stuff is like on Rick/Fonzie's truck. It shows on the cover of the early 1985 brochure, below:

That would be awesome for logging! But the diesels, and the 460's, didn't happen until late '83, and even then they may have gone mainly to CA. So an '80 diesel doesn't compute. Someone had to have transplanted it.

Didn't ask. He just wanted to know what type of u-joints an F350 had. I answered. But I didn't tell him the type of shaft doesn't really matter if it is hitting the crossmember.

Yep, I understood. Someone on FB asked today about whether an F350 had a single or double-cardan front shaft. His hits the crossmember. Sure hope mine doesn't.

For what we are talking about, yes. However, the tail lights on yours should ground to the frame where those on an '85 come all the way back to the cab ground. That's the only difference of which I'm aware.

Good point, Shaun! I'll be right in style.

Wow! That worked very, very well.

Hate to tell you, but that's for the little Ranger or Bronco II. Not the F or U-series trucks.

I suspect you are right, Jim. And I've never gotten a part that was only partly there or had been previously installed. And I've ordered lots of parts from Amazon. So I just ordered the tie rods and tie rod ends from them. Oh, and the adjuster sleeve. So, when all of this comes in I should have everything to put the front axle under it. But I still have the front driveshaft to do. Its the double-cardon unit and I want to make sure the one I have is the right one before I put a new u-joint set in it.

That's interesting! A spider web. But it ought to work. Go for it.

Jonathan is right - the 4wd F250's front end is a mix of F150 and F350. It has the TTB of the 150 and the leaf springs of the 350. And, in my opinion, is the least desirable of front suspensions in these trucks as it has a poor ride and little articulation. There are fixes for the problem, but they are expensive. DAHIK. If you want to convert an F150 2wd to 4wd you need to find another F150 or a Bronco. Their suspensions are basically bolt-in for yours. Installing the F250's front suspension and driveline would be difficult and I don't think you'd like the results.

I recently found out why the spindles and knuckles on the '95 D60 were so hard to get apart when the ones on Dad's D44 were easy to take apart. As I was prep'ing for reinstalling the spindles I tried to put them in the knuckles, to no avail. So I put the spindles in the lathe a used sandpaper to get the rust off of the part that goes into the knuckle, and used a sandpaper drum in my drill to clean the inside of the knuckles. And they still wouldn't go easily. On closer inspection I found that someone had used a chisel when trying to remove the spindles. And instead of just prying the two pieces apart the chisel got into the spindle itself and increased the diameter slightly, but just enough to make them not want to go in. So I took a file to the offending spots and got the parts to go together nicely. I say all of that to say that I'm going to use anti-seize when they go back together. I do not want rust in there again. Anyway, Jim, I got lost on the idea of a 1/2" nut welded to the spindle socket. How does the socket hold to the spindle? I'm missing something that must be obvious.

No, the lights and the gauges are grounded together. So if your gauges are working the lights should be working as well. However, you can see the grounds here: Documentation/Electrical/EVTM's/1985 EVTM/Grounds.

Have you used the shop manual section here: Documentation/Driveline/Brakes and then the tabs on Master Cyl's & Boosters, Factory Shop Manual Sections, and then the Brake Booster - Vacuum Pump? There's a chart in there that shows how much vacuum you should have. Have you checked that? A low level of vacuum is the problem I would expect to give the symptoms you have.

I think you need a 460 or an IDI up front just to hold the wheels on the ground.

That's an excellent price. Looks like the one for a D44, but I can't tell for sure.

That truck would be interesting. Let us know what happens.

I"m not saying Rock won't accept returns, but they are much more strict than Amazon. Which is good in that you probably aren't going to get a part from Rock that's been installed. Apparently not true with Amazon.

Is there any chance that you put the wrong shoe in the right position? In other words, there's a rear shoe and a front shoe, and if you put them in the wrong place they'll self-energize and come on when they shouldn't.

Good to know, Scott.

BTTT Gary or anyone in the know for the 80/83? trucks with F O R D letters on the hood do you have the barrel nut dimensions / type for them? I have the old ones but some were bent and I got then some what straight. I also got a pack of 15 from NAPA but they are a little to big. Tthey slip on / off the pins and have not tried in the holes on the hood. I fear if I get them in and they don't fit tight to the pins I cant get them out with out hurting the paint. Thanks Dave ---- Dave - First, I'm "in the know" for the retainers for the 1982 & 3 letters: E0TZ 000000-A. (They only used the letters in '80 & '81. ) But, it isn't so easy for the 1980 & '81 trucks. That's 'cause there apparently isn't a part number in the catalog for them. As you can see below, "Incl. attaching parts" means they came with the letters: But, if you can measure the studs and give me a pic of the original retainers maybe we can figure it out?

That's funny! And, I understand. You saw the weld on Big Blue's engine crossmember. That was easy as well. WelderScott sure did a good job. Good pics, thanks.

There's always a weak link. Maybe it is good that the bumper is yours. Saves the frame.

I don't know what to say. Some of those are scary. Perhaps you meant to post them tomorrow night? They'd be very appropriate.

That was Monday. Is it on yet? If so, how's it feel?