Gary Lewis

I responded in your new thread on Transmissions, but for completeness I'll also respond here. From what I've read the 4R100 is the same as an E4OD with some revisions. And, most of the internal parts swap. Further, a 4R100 will bolt up where an E4OD was - except that at about the same time of the change in the transmissions the engine options changed. For instance, I don't think you can find a 4R100 for a 460 as the tranny came out the first year the 460 didn't. Also, there were a number of upgrades for the E4OD as well as the 4R100 over the years. So you'd want to upgrade any transmission with all of the mod's. I had the shop that built my E4OD for Dad's truck upgrade it with the ALL of the mod's. And, that included some for 4R100's. For instance, I tend to remember that the pan is a 4R100 pan with a factory drain plug and reusable gasket on the pan.

David - It sounds GOOD! As for Cracker Barrel's "swill", I found a way to "fix" it. They have "crafted coffees", but they are all lattes and that doesn't sound good with breakfast. However, they put a shot of espresso in those drinks, so I had the put the shot in a cup of their regular coffee. Pretty good!

I agree with your thinking. If you don't need the creeper gear of a manual, like the ZF5, then an E4OD or 4R100. And there are standalone controllers for them. US Shift has one for the E4OD and the 4R100. But, there are guys saying that you can get a Ford EEC controller for a diesel/E4OD combo and use it. Supposedly it costs less than something like the US Shift or Baumann controllers. But, the aftermarket ones also have some learning built in, and I think that would be very beneficial.

Looks great!

I'm sure you are aware of this, but if you try to take comparison pics of the different lighting you'll have to put your camera into manual mode and use the same shutter and aperture settings for all pics. Otherwise the camera will adjust the settings and try to make them all come out at the same brightness. The way I've done it is to take a gauge cluster into a dark room with the camera on a tripod. Power the cluster will 14v and take one pic on Automatic. Find the shutter and aperture settings in the picture's metadata and then dial that in on Manual mode and take the remaining pics.

I thought about mentioning it, but decided I’d wait and see if you spotted it. 😉

The 2nd cup is on hold. We are in T-town for a long-awaited doctor’s appointment for Janey. Stopping for breakfast, at Cracker Barrel where I won’t drink their swill but love the food, and then home. Then I can have that second cup and will crank the sound up and listen to that!

That sounds like a good plan.

The bolt pattern for the Windors is the same as a 300 six, so "yes" assuming that's what they are off of.

What insulation are you going to use? I'm not sure how styrofoam would handle the heat as the panels will get pretty warm. But, it does handle hot coffee well, so... But you might want to paint those panels a light or reflective color to keep them cooler. White works, as does silver. And gloss is best.

You, like me, come from a GM background where transmissions swap with ease. Not so in Fords. Transmission bolt patterns are specific to the engine series. So a tranny for a Windsor and 300 six, which share a bolt pattern, won't fit on a 460. And one from a 460 won't fit on a diesel. The AOD wasn't put in anything with more torque than a 302 or a 300. Never behind the 351W, and certainly never behind a 460 or the diesel. In stock form they can't handle much torque and are very sensitive to having their linkage adjusted correctly. But, I've been told that with the right aftermarket parts they can be pretty stout. But, they won't fit a 460 or diesel. The E4OD requires a controller. There are standalone ones for about $750 and up. Or you can do as I'm doing for Dad's truck and use Ford's EEC system to control it. But it is a good tranny and came behind all of Ford's engines. With its 4 speeds and lock-up torque converter it is much more efficient than the C6. But, at the price of those it wouldn't hurt to buy them if you have a place to put them.

Wow, 5.56 gears - if gas powered. Tow anything. And I'd forgotten the 10-lug wheels. The ZF5 is worth something as well. Assuming it works nicely that truck would do Ray's job in its sleep.

Frank - Are your rims too wide for your tires? Show us a pic of what you have. Someone may be looking for them. Jim - Why 8? I thought it just took 4, although more is better than less.

I like it! But, 4.10 gears and a C6 wouldn't work for the highway, especially with the diesel. Still, it is very well done.

Okay Gary, here is a Ford....what do ya think? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1339952016162922/ For that price you can't get hurt too badly. And, you can swap a Bullnose front clip on it. The F450 probably has 4.10 gears, and with the 7.3L could tow about anything. Or, haul whatever you can get on the flatbed. But, is the flatbed long enough? And how would you get the logs up on it?

That IS a FUN read! I like it.

Seems a bit high to me for a Chevy. But the winch and accessories should work out well.

Jim - As you know, I got your text w/the address, and I have the part boxed. Hope to get it on its way tomorrow. And does this answer the question about fasteners? It comes from Documentation/Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding.

Bummer! Did you go off the 3' dropoff????? Hang in there, you'll get these problems sorted, quickly.

I have used dish soap for dusty parts like door & kick panels but for greasy parts in my parts cleaner Zep Purple industrial degreaser. I have also been known to use old gas to degrease a motor & trany. For rust I have used Electrolysis in a 5 gal. bucket as a test then moved to a home built pool on large parts, fenders & hoods and it worked pretty good on rust & removing paint. Paint stripping & rust removal on panels I use stripping pads from Eastwood, gray pads work the best. I have also soaked smaller rusty parts in Evap-O-Rust and it does ok. No blasting or case hardening here. Electrolysis pool with fender & bumper backets. Eastwood pad on an air grinder, 3/4 of hood done. Dave ---- Sorry that I'm late to the party, but I use a Graymills parts washer for cleaning parts. It is made to use Simple Green, but since it heats the solution you really don't want to use the scented stuff as it'll run you out of the shop. When I first got the washer I did try the evergreen Simple Green and got lots of complaints from the other family members as the washer was in the attached garage. So I called Simple Green and talked to the owner and told him what I had and what I was doing. He suggested using Simple Green Crystal that doesn't have the scent, and not to take the temp over 130 degrees. So that's what I use. However, the filtration system took a bit of learning as well. There's a coarse screen to prevent tools or small parts from falling in, then there's a fine screen to catch stand, gravel, etc. And then there's a string filter like used for water systems. Originally it used short string filters, but those were hard to find so I upgraded to a 10" filter. And I thought that something like a 2 micron filter would be good, but soon discovered that it plugged pretty quickly. So over the course of several years I've gradually gone to less and less fine filters and have now arrived at 50 micron units, which work pretty well and last for many uses. How does it work? Very well! I've probably only had to replace the Simple Green three or four times in the maybe 15 years I've had it. But with the stuff up to temp it'll cut through grease and oil very well, although I do use brushes to clean things. And when the part is clean you can rinse the part in hot water and dry it with a towel.

Hmmmm, if the Queen is happy, there is peace in the kingdom! Yep, David. As for what I did today, I was going to put the new caster/camber eccentrics in and install the ball joints. But Amazon changed their promised delivery date from today to tomorrow. So I put new u-joints in the front axle shafts. But, that makes it sound easier than it was. First was the removal of the old joints. Some might ask why I always replace parts like u-joints when I have things apart. Does this answer the question? Then with the old u-joints out I took things to the parts washer as they were covered with goo and crust. Once they were clean I examined the eyes where the u-joints go. Some were clean and some weren't so I cleaned things up, and found a ding that had to be taken out w/a round file. That done I turned to the new Spicer SPL55 u-joints. These are the high-dollar sealed-for-life joints with a corrosion proof coating. However, they were corroded in the package from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Bummer! I took #600 sandpaper and cleaned them up, but it sure didn't endear me to JBM. Then I put it all back together, which was almost as easy as it sounds. In fact, the hardest part of it was getting the well-sealed caps off the cross on the u-joints. Man, those things are sealed and the vacuum you generate by pulling the caps off is hard to overcome. But, I got them off and it all back together and ready for a family picture.

Well, looks like the auction on this truck hit my predicted price with 4 days to go! I'm not throwing in the towel just yet however. Most of the trucks on Ebay usually run up in price and then just sit there for the last 3 days at the max bid, or close to the max bid. This truck might be a little different. Wait and see. I don't think it'll go to $10k, but I'm guessing over $9K.

Well, I sit corrected. It is Bluemont Hill, not Blue Hill. It is now a "scenic overlook", and you are there. As for the hub opening on the wheels, I measure 4 7/8" on the spare to Big Blue. And it would be the same front and rear. But, the size of the hub itself depend on which one you have. You say D44, and mine measures 3.875" on the hub. But the same wheels fit the D50 and the D60, and the D60 hub I'm installing on Big Blue measures 4.865". Concerning wheel width, the thing I recommend is going to TireRack.com and comparing the exact tires you are considering. Here's a link that might work to the 285/75R16's. And if you then select 3 or 4 of them and hit Compare you'll see the info on the tires side by side. Then if you Click Detailed Specifications you see the nitty gritty details. And on the tires I have the wheels should be 7.5 - 9" wide.

Thanks, David. No, that's the power-washed sidewalk you see. One of the downsides of buying a power washer for cleaning up trucks is that someone might want you to use it on mundane things like sidewalks and driveways. But, we are to have rain in a couple of days and then a hard freeze. So it looks like we might get snow this year.

Matt - Welcome! Good to meet you. Glad you joined. Don't miss the request to add a signature that tells us about your truck. It helps us give you the right answers if we know what it is. Manhattan, huh? Spent a couple of years there back in the late 60's. Used to go up on Blue Hill, if I remember correctly. Speaking of Manhattan, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you with your permission. As for the truck, that sure looks nice. But I'm not sure what you mean by "hub size". Are you asking for the size where the hub locks go in? Or where the hub go through the wheel? Or? And 33" tires work nicely on Big Blue. In fact, I'm running LT285/75-R16's with no lift. (I'm actually doing a SAS/RSK installation, which will lift it some, but the tires worked nicely prior to that.)