Gary Lewis

That is very thorough. Well done.

I'm pretty sure that's fiberglass. I have a piece of it in my shop that I took out of Big Blue recently, and it looks to have the fibers.

I think it would be a very helpful addition to your truck if you are going to be building your own house. But it'll be quite the project, and I'd love to see how you do it.

Welcome, Gabe! Glad you joined. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you - with your permission. Good intro, and nice truck. Seems like you've been around the Bullnose trucks quite a bit as you've owned almost as many as I have. What are the plans for the truck?

Can you crank the pressure down? As for a train horn, been there, heard that. Worked on the railroad for 16 months during summers and one winter. There's a reason why the hearing aid sales in railroad towns are booming.

I'm thinking I'll call Scott on Monday. Need to ask him what to put on the head gasket - if anything. The Fel Pro instructions aren't very helpful, saying something like "fiber faced gaskets should use a sealant, and metal faced shouldn't". What sealant? Copper Kote? Or? So, I'll call and see if he sells the ARP's. Or, has another recommendation.

How did it sound?

Actually, I was just doing that and the part numbers are shown below: 10 each C8SZ 6065-B's and E7TZ 6065-B's. But piecing a set together by part number costs 10*($4.26+$7.83)=$121.09 + shipping at Ford Parts Giant. Or, you could pay 10*($31.90+$14.21)=$451.10 from Amazon. (Yep, that's what it says! ) At $121 I'd rather pay a bit more and have the ARP's. But I'm still looking ....

If I'm using RTV on the end walls, and I always do any more, I religiously clean the block and the intake, apply the RTV, and then set the intake down level and run all of the bolts in finger tight. Then I snug them up in the torque pattern, but don't torque them down, and let it sit over night so the RTV cures. The next day I torque it down. Otherwise I'm afraid I'll squish the RTV out.

On the valve is there a way to check this off center thing? I have seen post the plunger needs to be pulled out for bleeding but it does not want to move. I am going to build a cheap pressure bleed system to see if that helps. Dave ---- If the plunger is to one end the brake warning light on the dash is supposed to be on. Does it come on when you first turn the key on? It is supposed to in order to prove the bulb is good.

Yep the "fine tuning" is all it needs now LOL I need to check the box for play, if I can remember I will look at it tomorrow. On the brakes I am going to try and build a cheap pressure bleed system as my son thinks it still has air in the system. Thing is if it did have air I would think the pedal would pump up no? Dave ---- Yes, I think the pedal would pump up, but it would be very soft as you compress the air.

LOL! The angle is such that I haven't figured out what I'm looking at. However, the front main seal where the crank comes out of the pan/block combo is a frequent point of leakage. And when it leaks the oil is thrown to the passenger's side as well as is blown back along the pan. So is the passenger's side inner fender and the alternator gooey but the driver's side is clean?

Excellent! Glad you got it going. But, did it just fail or did you have a short somewhere else?

Well done, Cory! Congrat's, Darin.

You are sure the rears are adjusted up fully? If so, and if it still feels like the front is doing most of the stopping, when either the master is bad or the brake pressure differential valve may be stuck off center.

It doesn't say where the Speedmaster studs are made. And with lots of searching I've not found anything but Taiwan or Chinese besides the ARP's. But I don't think the engine needs them. I'd be happy with stock head bolts, but I haven't found them.

OK, this is good to know! Thank you sir! So the throttle plates stop just by closing in the barrels then? The reason I started looking so closely at the fast idle cam is that it is nice and loose and moving freely until I back the idle speed screw all the way out. With the idle speed screw all the way out, there is a little drag on the fast idle cam stop screw. It looks like it could be loosened just a little bit. And, on the intake gaskets. Do you guys put a little RTV around the coolant ports or install them dry? I put RTV around the coolant ports. I agree with Bill's approach of using studs to position the intake. And the RTV on the end walls. But, I'll add that it is possible to put the intake on at an angle, and it won't always line itself up just by torquing the bolts. So do your best to get it on level.

Congrat's!!!!!!! Yes, you still have some niggles to iron out, but IT DRIVES!!!! Well done!!!!! I have no clue about king pins, but I would think that them being tight would take the "feel" out of driving and make it tough. I know that I've tried adjusting the steering box on a couple of trucks and that sure took the feel out. On the brakes it sounds like you have a bad master cylinder. But these niggles can, and will be, resolved.

Bill - Thanks. I'll try laying out all the fasteners tomorrow and get pics to ensure I know what I'm doing. Shaun - I think Scotty said something like "if they are good", and they clearly aren't. But, guys, I'm having trouble finding reasonably-priced head bolts. These ARP's are $179. Why not go with this stud kit from Speedmaster for $87?

That's what I'm thinking as well. But wanted others opinions. Ok guys, while waiting for the D60 to be re-re-worked I'm going to turn to the engine. But before I get into what I did today I need to ask some questions. First, I need to get with Totally Stainless and get the right fasteners in the works. And from what I remember I need: Water pump bolts, but those are the same for all 460's, whether carb'd or EFI'd. Right? Valve cover bolts, and I'm going to send them one of mine. Lower plenum bolts. I don't think they are special, so I just need to measure them. I think. The vertical studs for the fuel rails Is that all? Not sure I need stainless pan bolts. But, it looks to me like I need new head bolts. Scotty said to just reuse the original ones, but I started cleaning them up today and I don't like what I'm seeing. Here's a shot of some of them after blasting them: And if that's not close enough, try this shot: So I'm planning to order ARP's. However, what are your thoughts? Now for what I did today. Here's the engine coming out of the truck: And here it is on the stand in the shop:

I agree. We all have those kinds of problems, so don't hang your head. You stayed with it until you found it. And while you are waiting on the gaskets, check the throttle plates out on that carb. I think one side is closing before the other. They really should both hit at the same time so that the two sides of the engine are both running the same amount.

Don't know how bad the gasses will be, but if it were me I'd use plastic since it should be easy.

Really? Glad you told me. I had one of those days yesterday. So I understand. I think a plastic tool box with a wooden divider will work. But the wood will eventually fail due to the gases, so maybe you could find piece of plastic to use?

According to my post here in the Hydroboost Brake Conversion thread: You didn't say what the problem has been for the first two boosters you bought. But, does the above answer your question? As for AC/Delco, I think their stuff is good, and I'd buy one if it was an option.

Don't the AGM's, like a Yellowtop, produce less gas? And there are some valve-regulated lead acid (VRLA) batteries that have a vent hose. I know the Miatas have that kind of battery, and they just have a hole in the truck with a fitting in it that the hose goes onto.