Big6John

Rough country sells lift kits for the factory front axel. I'm planing on using one of their kits on my truck.

Thanks everyone!! I think I got it pretty much figured out now.

Its a factory 4 SPD. I thinks the column was swapped because he wanted tilt.

Is the cruise control harness separate or part of the main harness. And will intermittent wiper attach to a regular harness with out the intermittent wipers?

Thanks everyone for the info. I’m stripping the truck all the way down and keeping anything I might need to get my truck going. I all ready have all the brackets off a newer inline 6 with a/c so I’ll convert mine to the serp system. I’m keeping the engine for a later project with all the hardware and brackets. Last night I pulled the dash frame and all the interior pieces so today I’m going to pull the wire harness. I think I’m going to swap the harness into mine because the one in the parts truck has the a/c harness and the cruise control harness. Unless the cruise is another harness that will clip into the one I got. When I’m all done I’ll cut the firewall out. Is there much of a market for factory 4x4 front axels?

Maybe someone changed the column at on time. Is there quite a difference in the firewall? Has anyone converted a non a/c truck to have a/c?

I picked up a 1985 f150 300 inline 6 4spd yesterday for only $300. It’s extremely rusty and has been off the road since 2017. The engine is extremely locked up and won’t budge. I plan on swapping the a/c and cruise into my truck. Is it factory for a manual truck to have a automatic column so it has cruise? Also was the double wheel well trim an option?

Good luck on your project! That engine looks beautiful 👍

I didn’t do much to my truck but I did go to a junk yard and load up on some parts. I got there just in time because they were about 5 minutes away from crushing the truck I needed parts off of. I got a pristine dash pad, a pillar plastic, serp kit off a 1990 inline 6, dash bezels, some a/c parts, and a bunch of little things all for a grand total of $50!

It really depends on why you want the clear coat. They sell a glossy one and a matte one. If you are wanting to increase or decrease the sheen, then yes, clear coat is the thing to do. If you have a bunch of parts with different amount of sheen and you want them to match, clear coating everything will help. If you are just wanting to add protection then skip it. My experience is somewhat limited, but the pieces that I painted black for my ‘81 have held up amazingly well. It’s been six years and lots of abuse by grandkids and dogs yet it still wipes down and cleans up just as nice as when I painted it. This was the Autozone Duplicolor brand vinyl prep and paint, and SEM ‘sand free’ prep on the hard plastics. Thanks everyone for your input!

What are your guys thoughts on SEM clear coat over the paint/dye?

Everything is red except the dash which is tan. I’m either going with fire thorn red or Napa red. I did some calling around and a gallon is very hard to get and it would cost $800! I can get cans from my local paint shop for $25 a pop. I talked to sem and he said a gallon is around 32 cans. I’ll probably pick up four cans to start with.

Thanks Gary We have all the tools to do it. I’ll have to give them a call.

This is excellent, and I swear by SEM. Use it per instructions--and use the prep, adhesion promoter, etc. before the paint. You will not go wrong. There is a bit of this on my thread, but, you will use more cans than you think on the larger pieces. Some may need more than one coat. They also sell a gallon of the color I’m going to use. Would I need one or two? Thanks

It a standard cab with no headliner. I’ll be doing the door panels, dash pad, dash frame, a pillar trim, and the trim down by the vents. I’ll check the instructions out. Thanks