CDLong

I found one in Texas at a transmission shop. $150, I searched google for days before I found it. I should have just changed out the panel to a newer one.

Thanks for the info. I intend to get my parts from them too.

Thanks, I'll know later today. Guess I'll look at the rear sway bar too.

Got everything torqued down, test drive today.

Geat catch, thanks Pete. You were right on the money. Flipped it and no issues gettin' the bolts in the connecting links. I tried to install it the way it came off, so God only know what the 4 POs have done to the ole girl. Now to get the crossmember in and sway bar bolted up. Excellent! Glad it was something that simple. You and me both Pete!

Geat catch, thanks Pete. You were right on the money. Flipped it and no issues gettin' the bolts in the connecting links. I tried to install it the way it came off, so God only know what the 4 POs have done to the ole girl. Now to get the crossmember in and sway bar bolted up.

Thanks Jim, I'll get it installed today. Think I'm onna have issues gettin' the crossmember in, but we'll see.

Thanks, that the diagram I'm using.

Thanks, looks like I have the connectors on the correct sides.

From a previous thread, some know the crossmember the sway bar mounts onto was bent. I straightened it as best I could and bolted it back up. Yesterday after torquing the passenger's side radius arm bracket I tried to install the sway bar. The bushings didn't come anywhere near fitting to be bolted to the brackets on the crossmember. I got them roughly in place and then the sway bar couldn't be moved to the connector links. I had to remove the crossmember to connect the sway bar to the links. I think I have the connector links on the correct sides. I had the originals links on the correct side, but my wife told my Granddaughter to pick up papaw's parts and put them in a box. I did swap the connector links side to side and it was worse. The passenger's side isn't tight, I just threaded the nuts on until they stopped at the nylon insert. The driver's side has space and I can't push it over to bolt it up. Should I use a ratchet strap to pull it over? Or, God forbid, do I have more problems? The last picture I'm holding the sway bar roughly where it would be bolted to the crossmember.

I will check them, thanks Matt! LMC has the bracket, bushings and all the hardware. A few things I would have done differently. I wouldn't have taken both sides down at once. The driver's side gave me a lot of headaches. I completed the driver's side, mounted wheel and tire, and when I assembled the passenger's side. All I had to do was jack the radius arm up and the holes were alined. No fighting the bracket. I wouldn't have tried to just replace the radius arm bushings, I would have left the wheels and tires on and ground off the rivets and removed the brackets. I would have used flanged lock nuts on the bracket bolts, Then after I had them tight, I may not have needed a backup wrench. Backup wrench can be a PITA to get off once torque is reached. You guys get ready for a new thread, brakes are next.

Back on all fours. Have to torque the 4 bolts securing the radius arm bracket to 70 ft lbs., install sway bar with new bushings, locks and connecting links, then pull forward at least 10 feet and torque radius arm nuts to 100 ft lbs. Played the devil gettin' the nuts on the bracket inside the frame because the Cat was in the way. Finally used a long extension, swivel joint, short socket with grease in it to hold the nut.

Thanks Jeff.

I did find this: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/fd-1980-96-body-mounting But it says radiator support?

While assembling the passenger's side, I found another issue. The bracket that the right front fender bolts to is rotted out. Can anyone give me the proper name of the bracket so I can try to find one? Looks like my rivet grindin' days ain't over.