Quarterwave

Well, so much for Edelbrock. They were unable to provide a solution.

Ok, thanks Pete. I'm going to call Edelbrock and ask them WTF is this an issue for $1,000-a-piece heads!

I doubt you can find a PCV valve that is set up to go to a hose. Don't think I've seen one, but maybe. Or you may get a PCV valve to go into a hose - I've not tried. But the best would be if your valve cover has a grommet in it where the breather valve is to put a PCV valve in the grommet. Then a hose to the back of the carb. And just having the breather on the other valve cover is fine. The vacuum from the carb will pull fresh air into the on the side with the breather cap and that air will go down through the sump and out the PCV valve taking oil fumes with it. Hmmm ok - I'll need to call Edelbrock to see what they recommend, as I can't be the only guy to have this issue. This is what I've found so far - at Amazon of all places: Valve cover breather: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN52TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 PCV Valve: https://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-3593-PCV-Valve-Fitting/dp/B003EP2SGM/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M3H593DCLQ30&keywords=edelbrock+valve+cover+breather+pcv+valve&qid=1568993782&s=automotive&sprefix=edelbrock+valve%2Cautomotive%2C162&sr=1-6

Interesting, thanks Pete. Why the heck do they use them if they are garbage?

Hi Pete, Thanks for the info as always. The truck does get started and brought up to temperature once a week, and I do drive it usually on Saturday's and Sundays' when running errands or picking up lumber. Would that make a difference? The heads are Edelbrock RPM type - would they have these "umbrella" seals? I can't find any specific reference online. Man, this truck... Gary - no PCV valve - only the vented cap on either rocker cover. So, I imagine I need a valve cover cap with the angled elbow (do I need just the one on the passenger side?), clamp a hose to that, run the PCV valve inline(?) and then run the hose from that into the PCV valve port on the carb... which is currently being used to run a vacuum line to the trans for shifting. It's interesting - when I read the manual for the carburetor, I noticed the "mechanic" had connected the PCV port to the trans vacuum line, and so I changed it to the port on the back of the carburetor, as that was what it was supposed to be for... I then blocked the PCV port on the carb and the truck started smoking and running really bad. Changed it all back, and the idle evened out, no more smoke etc...

Ok will do - and I appreciate the help. It'll have to wait a few days as I get home from work after dark these days!

Thanks everyone. I'll have to take a look on the weekend when I have time and might reach out to Edelbrock to see what options are available, as the heads have less than 100 miles on them from brand new, out of the box. Gary - with them being so new, is a valve issue likely?

It looks like I have some bluish smoke coming from cylinder 6 on my 351 W. Admittedly, the block is original so it might be time for me to suck it up and put in a decent short block, but the engine makes good power and pulls strong. When idling in my driveway, the smoke comes and goes intermittently from where the exhaust header buttons up to the exhaust port on the head. When driving, some comes out of the tail pipes when under moderate to heavy acceleration, and after coming to a stop and needing to wait a few minutes for lights to change, some smoke will exit the exhaust upon accelerating away from the intersection (slow or fast acceleration does not matter). After diving under the truck, it looks like one of the joints on the left bank exhaust is showing a little black discoloration. The engine idle is good although I think it's starting to foul the plug as I got a very occasional miss this past weekend when under 1/2 to 3/4 acceleration, but that cleared up after a couple of minutes run time. After researching online, other 351W posts recommend changing the PVC valve, but my headers/intake/carburetor/rocker covers are all Edelbrock aftermarket and AFAIK, the PVC was eliminated when they were installed (I took it to a shop to have the work done as I didn't have time to do it - that was a bad decision, I know). Any help would be appreciated.

I used the lighter version on the roof and the vertical panels of the cab. The floor was the only part that received the "regular" Xmat. The stuff for the roof is kind of spongy and is really light (but way more expensive), whereas the regular stuff is like an asphalt sheet with the aluminum backing. The asphalt stuff is fairly heavy for what it is, but with a sharp Stanley knife and some good scissors, it's easy to manage. Some tips: Sharp scissors Stanley knife with new blade Work gloves - the aluminum on the sheets can be sharp Buy the aluminum tape to seal the Xmat joints on the floor. Otherwise the asphalt material can ooze/spread a bit Buy the hard plastic/rubber roller - it really helps to push the stuff down in the valleys and crevices of the cabin - esp. when applying to the door skins Remember to cut out the Xmat where the seat and seatbelt mounting points are I used two rolls of the roof insulation, which covered the roof of my Supercab, along with the rear panel behind the rear seat and both sides of the CABIN (not the doors). I could have used another roll for the door skins, but ended up using the regular Xmat asphalt material, which has worked out good so far. Fiddly to get in as it's sticky and only has a small amount of room, but it can be done (cut up into about 3 medium-sized pieces, place in the door cavity and then peel away the backing as you stick it to the door skin). I ordered 3 of the large boxes of Xmat flooring material (I believe they had about 8 or 9 large sheets folded over in each box), but only used a bit less than 2 boxes for the floor (Supercab) and the doors. I sold the other box to a guy working on an OBS Bronco. If you feel inclined, so much of the interior has to come out, you might like to consider re-dying the plastic pieces. If you do, LMC has the paint and an adhesion promoter that so far, has been good in my application. You'll also need to order some of the plastic clips as they are brittle and mine tended to break when prying off the panels (I was using a trim removal tool). I got some replacement clips from Amazon for a few bucks per pack (there were about 10 in each pack if I recall correctly) Hope this helps!

No, it was all good.

Hi Kramttocs, Yes, I re-used the jute as it was in ok condition. I figured the more insulation the better. Even with twin mufflers (I used to run straight pipes), it's still LOUD and shakes the cabin! This sound clip is how it sounds now... The headliner itself was the fabric kind, that had the bonded foam type of material attached to it. Apparently, the issue with the headliners sagging is actually the foam breaking down, not the material. I took the headliner backing board out (there are some creases in the board that bend to help remove it from the cabin) and after removing what I could of the fabric, I used a combination of sandpaper and a plastic drywall putty knife to scrape the foam off. I think next time, I'll just use a wire brush attachment on a drill as that would be quicker. NOTE - mine was a messy job, so you might want to do it outside where its not too windy.

Hi Rembrandt, I used a mounting kit from Crutchfield. I actually sold them some time ago. LMK if you need any info on the install and if so, I'll write it all up here for future reference for other users as there were a few challenges along the way.

Thanks Emunder! The wheel is a Grant steering wheel that was un-varnished. I took a couple of weeks to build up around 5 coats of marine varnish - the hardest part was keeping dust out of the finish long enough so it could dry. A standard wheel-puller took off the old wheel - and it works for the Grant - but the setup on the Grant is a little different, where a three-prong puller would be better. The adapter is also from Grant but they have a really weird way of getting the horn to work, so unfortunately, mine is not at the moment (the wiring and horn work, just not connected to the horn on the wheel). I think all up it was about $220 plus my time to prep and paint the varnish.

Gary - excuse my ignorance - what are "TTB's" and "TIB's"?

OMG - tell me about the heat! Earlier this week we had a big storm hit while I was at work, and it took out approx. 20 ft of a 35 ft tall tree in my backyard. I came home and there were branches and leaves everywhere (incl. a 5 ft chunk of the trunk where it had sheared off the other part of the tree). So, today was my turn to cut it all up into manageable pieces and move it out for collection. I think I went through half a gallon of water and two pairs of yard clothes in about 3 hours. It had to be almost 100 and I had no shade to work in. This heat is crazy right now.