gaveasky

Here is a Pic of my junction block which is what I assume you were talking about. I think I could save this nut. Man it's ugly under there... I hope I can save this truck one day. I have to drop the tanks to put in new sending units so I might take the chance to learn how to do brake lines too...

Interesting day yesterday, I decided to go ahead with the swap of the valve first since I do not have a jack at the moment to do the wheel cylinders. Mid-way through I realized I was not going to be able to get all the lines off the old valve (stripped nuts) and that I should probably redo all the rusted out brake lines anyway. So I reconnected everything I had managed to take out of the current valve, and got in the truck to move it back to storage.... and now my brakes work. I did a vacuum hand-pump bleed and theyre super sponge but the brakes work... Now on my next day off I'm gonna try borrow a good jack from someone and get those wheel cylinders done and start thinking about brake lines which is something new to me as well.

I bought a valve from carolinaclassictrucks, I am guessing this does not qualify as OEM and the tool should work? In any case they forgot to ship me the tool so I'm wondering if there is any way to do the bleed without it.

You are right, even though their website doesnt ship to canada they sent me a paypal link and made it work. Thanks for the recommendation, especially about the bleed tool, I would have never guessed and then smashed my head in trying to work out why it wasnt bleeding properly lol. Thanks for all the information guys. ArdWrknTrk if you still have that part/thing number you used to bypass the load sensing valve I'd love to keep it documented should the prop valve not work.

Hmm yeah, this one says it works for my truck https://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/80-86-Ford-F250-F350-brake-valve.html Off the dome, do you know what I would say to the auto parts guy to get the correct adapter so this would fit? I might as well order that part anyway cause if someone else's prop valve failed, mine will too (eventually) even if it hasn't already.

It appears as though the 80-83 trucks used different prop valves to the 84-86. Searching online, one guy stated my truck would use E0TZ 28257-A . Cannot find this part online... wondering if maybe a Willwood adjustable valve might work, though I would probably lose the brake warning light.

I will definitely get some pictures, the truck is just at home and I *just left the house to work* away from home until Wednesday. Im going to come back then with as much info as possible. Its possible the PO did away with it, but the truck was braking just fine both loaded and unloaded until a couple of nights ago... Sorry for not having pics right away, and thank you for your insight.

That is one hell of a setup they got there, I just got under my truck and there are definitely two hoses leading aft from the back of the axle and (seemingly) into the frame. I wasn't able to see that scissor mechanism but I am guessing if the hoses are there, it must be hidden under my rear tank, or I didn't look well enough. What's the advice moving forward, any way to check the valve or just delete it seeing as I will never be able to find a new one? God bless you guys, I have a bunch of parts coming in soon so I will plan out what to do. When I drop the rear tank I will be easily able to get in there and check that sensing mechanism out.

I'm gonna have to test the front brake function, I am tending not to hold the brakes down very long as soon as they lock up (dont want to leave too many marks in my neighborhood) - it seems as though the rear locks up before the front does anything though. If I REALLY lightly press on the pedals there is about 0.5 inch of travel where I can stop the truck without skidding but it is extremely sensitive. The reservoirs are both full, even though the wheel cylinders have a tiny leak they have been full for 2 months. No brake fail light on the dash though, and I know it works because it was always on before I swapped the MC. Did not know about this valve, going to look into it.

I've got an 83 in the exact same configuration! That thing is in great shape and I wish mine had AC. I look forward to hearing more about it. Do the glow plugs work? Took me two days to hammer my PO's old ones out and put a push-button setup in my F250.

Hey guys, since last posting here I have been busy working a lot and fixing the truck in my free time. It's been going ok, but an intermittent problem has just become permanent and I am totally stumped. Once in a while, after starting up and getting down the street, in the first couple of times I applied the brakes I would get nothing and then sudden full rear brakes causing the rear wheels to lock up. I would then drive around the block once or just let the truck idle a few mins and the brakes would be back in business. Yesterday I purchased a couch in town and got in the truck to pick it up, and the brakes are now out of order, when I step on the pedal I get nothing for a few inches and suddenly full lockup in the rear. New master cylinder and booster a couple of months ago. I am hoping the intermittent nature of the problem (before it became permanent) can be a clue, also the fact that both wheels lock up confuses me, but I am by no means a mechanic or expert, I have just been doing what I can on the truck with the help of youtube and forums. I ordered new rear drum hardware kits and wheel cylinders (current ones are leaking a bit for a while) but again, the fact that its both brakes leads me to find it improbable that both cylinders fail at the same time? Here she is: Any ideas/knowledge greatly appreciated.

I see! If I understood correctly then, a later model master cylinder would fit directly onto my current brake booster housing and be a better option, and all I have to do is switch a couple of lines around. If this is the case and considering the specifications of my vehicle, would any of you kindly recommend which one I should buy from Rockauto? I think I will place an order for a few things incl. glow plugs since I am in Canada and it would be smart to save on shipping.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1983,f-250,6.9l+420cid+v8+diesel,1123669,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836 In my limited wisdom, I believe the CENTRIC 13065047 is the only one on that website that explicitly states 4WD and weight above 8500lb. Rockauto seems to break between above or below 8500lb, and again my truck is 8600lb according to the sticker on the door something tells me a truck considered "over 8500" would be a bit more than 200lbs heavier than the cutoff point.

Ah! my bad, I misread what you wrote. Thanks for the advice so far anyway it has been massively useful to me.

Another question which arises when searching rockauto for brake master cylinders is that they are divided by GVW over 8500lb and under 8500lb On my doorwell sticker my GVWR reads 8600lb so I assume I must find one suitable for: -4x4 -2 piston front brakes -GVW over 8500lb