todd121

See thats the thing it doesn't mention but I was watching stacey davids show on YouTube where he did a general talk about converting from drum to disk and he mentioned you would use a different master cylinder as well as a different proportioning valve,

I was looking at this conversion kit, https://lugnut4x4.com/product/dana-60-single-rear-wheel-brake-kit/#choose-your-rotors The Dana 60 HD is still solid under the truck so I don't think I want to go with a rear end swap.

Interesting, By the looks of this thing you never would've thought someone took the time to have that put in/ installed it. But it was new at one time. With all the rusted hardware Im leaning towards the master hardware kit for the body panels. My update for today is getting the front clip off less the passenger side inner wheel well because I want to document in photos how the vacuum system is plumbed ( I know there are schematics but if I can see it in person on what im working on putting it back together I find is easier.) Thats going to do it for the front end for now until I find a deal on an engine stand I trust to hold the old 4.9. Gonna drop the fuel tank this week and clean up the skid plate. next before really digging into cleaning the frame rails full force. Looks like it's been hit in the front end and theres a cracked core support mount however it looks like everything else is good as far at the frame goes. I'm hopeful the core support doesn't have to be replaced but there is a ton of rust around the passengers side mount on the core support itself so once I can get it disassembled well see. Thankfully all the trim looks to be good around the grill just needs to be polished up. The grill is in good shape too. The drivers side headlight bezel seems to be cracked in half and I think im better off replacing it rather than fixing the broken plastic. The more I get into this truck though the more im leaning towards rewiring the whole thing because all the old wiring is so brittle and dry rotted. Im not sure ive notated it here but im strongly considering doing a disk brake swap in the back since the brakes need a complete over haul but like ive been telling my dad who's been helping out some "its gotta run right before it needs to stop"

Some paint brands will not work with Ospho unless it is neutralized—those brands will clearly state it in their instruction sheets. The local autobody paint shop will be aware of which ones need it. MINE I bought did not need it…but Ospho left a gummy black on the body panels, and so I elected to neutralize it anyway to get rid of the sticky goo. That goo can cause the paint to bubble. There are many threads on this noted on the web. If you look at the OSPHO instructions Gary shared, you will see that Ospho recommends some sort of cleaning after whether that is by mineral spirits or soapy water—that is essentially neutralizing. How for the frame and powder coating, or some other paint restore for that, there may be no neutralization needed. For body paint, I would absolutely neutralize, espcially if Ospho does not turn to a white powder, and instead leave a black gooey residue. Thanks for the info, I picked up some Ospho this week to try out on the frame, It did turn black and gooey so im going to clean it as much as possible, However haven't ordered my Chasis saver paint yet. On an unrelated note, does anyone know if a steering stabilizer was standard on the dana 44hds? I just noticed it had one while ive been removing the front end over the last few days. will have some more updated pictures once I get this last pesky core support bolt out tonight after work.

Finally feel like I'm making headway with the truck, The bed is off so now to start dealing with the surface rust on the frame. Everything looks really solid and not a ton of pitting on the frame rails. Hoping to get the pressure washer our and degrease to see how much is Georgia clay and how much is surface rust. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Today's update, second picture my girlfriend took Saturday, it's the best picture I have of the truck in the barn. Today I had to get the cutoff wheel back out because the bumper was so bent and the bolts were so seized they just spun but I got it off. hoping to get the passenger silde fender out from under the door next so I can access the passenger side.

Well after way too many hours with a cutoff wheel I got the bed free today at about 7. didn't get a chance to get the bed off but should have it off this weekend to start cleaning up the frame and prep it for the rust converter.

I was thinking about that, Yes basically put space between the bed and the frame, Just something where I can get in and get a better angle on the bolt itself to cut it off.

So I got the nut splitter, I think it's going to work but I didn't have a ton of time to work on it when I got home tonight. I got the head to pull through where I cut off the head with the angle grinder yesterday but they were still to big to pull through the frame, What im thinking is if I can't get them all to bust I can get all of the bolts to pull through to give a little more room on the bottom side to get in there with a grinder/ saws all. I also considered pulling all of the bolts through then jacking up the bed a little bit to hit the nuts in-between the frame rails and the bottom of the bed as to not worry about the clearance issues of the sas all/angle grinder. Thoughts?

I will have to check the door code, I don't know much about that truck other than im going to pirate the bed from it.

Ah I didn't even know a nut splitter was a thing, im going to pick one up after work hopefully I can get most of them off with that, I know space it a little tight on the frame so I may still have to grind those once I get a new cut off wheel.

Oh forgot to add on this my zip is 30656 for the map

The doors are replacements but the cuts for the slide locks are still there. Its a Canadian built truck Door code is dated at 01/81

Sadly it's the going rate for them. Every time I see one on Ebay, they're always for sale at $350-$500 not including shipping. I wonder if the layer of paint on this one will help keep it from cracking. Wait, do the 89 bell housings go for this much? I have a parts truck in the yard with it just sitting there.