BabeTheBlueOx

Backstory: We bought our 1985 F350 with a barely-hanging on 351W in it, and swapped it out with a 1992 351W while we built a new engine. When we put the '92 351W in place, the motor mounts pushed against the oil pan to the point where it started leaking, so we did some cutting and grinding to relieve the pressure. I'm guessing the issue is the size/shape of the pan. The '85 had an external dip, the '92 had an internal dip. But I don't know this for sure. We're getting ready to drop in the engine that we built ('89 351W block, stroked to 393) and I want to replace the motor mounts. Question: Are the motor mounts specific to the engine block year, or the frame, or both (or neither!)? Thanks! (image of the interference, the oil pan sits "proud" of the block")

Yes, I think so. It's just taking up space and looking messy at this point.

Thanks for all the great information! Here's where I'm at. I got my hands on a later-model NP435 that's in good shape. It shifts very easy; I'm going to crack it open this weekend and see what I see. I've driven 7+ hours over the last two weeks chasing a T19, and honestly, I'm kind of over it. Plus I've read some opinions that the NP is the easiest shifting of the old 4 speeds, so I might just drop the synchro'd 1st gear dream and go with the NP. I'd value any experience and opinions contrasting the T19 and NP.

Turns out it is the ignition control module. After unwinding everything, it turns out it's not hooked up to anything. There's a separate MSD multi-spark unit that replaces it for (and is required for) or the MSD Pro Billet distributor. The wire I was unsure of, that came from the ICM bundle of wires and ended at the multi-spark module, is just ignition +12.

Thanks Gary and Bill, that makes me feel more confident about replacing connectors. After pulling apart the first taped-together-ratsnest-of-wires, I was happy to see that it wasn't as complicated as I thought. Just like untangling a bunch of fishing line. I put it all back together, crossed my fingers, and fired her up without any issues. I'm going to order some new connectors and some split wire conduit to do a final cleanup and routing of all the harnesses when we swap the engine out this spring.

I'm into the harness-pulling-and-checking project, it's going really well. I've got a big mess on my hands but it's been educational to pull everything apart, clean it, fix it, and put it back together. It's much less complicated than I thought. I've got some moulded connectors that have wire breaks so close to the moulded base that soldering it back together is going to be a very fragile fix. My gut tells me that replacing the connector on both sides with something new/modern is going to be far less effort than junkyard diving for a replacement. Any experience with that? Any gotchas that I'm not thinking through that could bite me?

After another bout of googling, I'm thinking you're correct. Someone installed an MSD Multiple Spark Discharge unit in the truck at some point, and I was thinking that replaced the ignition control module, but maybe that's not right.

Title says it all.. I'm digging in to some wire harness cleanup and testing after getting stranded on the side of the road with no spark, wiggling some wires, and getting moving again. I'm not sure what this is, and I'm not sure that the sticker on it came with it originally or someone slapped it on. Also, there is no tach gauge. Thanks in advance!

I answered my own question after some for searching: https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td23210

I've got a lead on a couple T19s to rebuild. One of them does not come with the shift lever. I'm finding conflicting opinions on if I could use my T18 shift handle with a T19. Anyone know for sure?

I'm very comfortable with electronics and wiring. Your "remove one wiring harness at a time" strikes a note. That would be a very controlled approach to getting everything back to standard wiring and quality. Can you point to any resources that go through wiring harness removal? I'm guessing it's probably pick a starting point, then disconnect and follow until you get an entire harness off, but I've been WAY wrong before. No that is pretty much it. Each section has it's own harness, like the Alternator Harness, left and right engine bay harness, frame-rail harness, taillight harness, and things like that. They all unplug in full sections for easier service. Even the main harness under the dash is removable, just time consuming etc. Removing the dash pad can give good access, after the A/C ducts are removed for example, if even equipped with A/C. So pick the most screwed up harness, and go from there, and work forwards/backwards etc. As for resources, this site is a really good one for help. Look at the top under documentation, then electrical for some good information. If you have questions, ask here and one of us will be able to help. Pictures also help us understand what is going on if you have a problem. One more question (until the next one). Do you have a recommended approach/parts to replace the connectors between harnesses if they need replacement?

Great advice all around so far, thank you all so much. I'm very comfortable with electronics and wiring. Your "remove one wiring harness at a time" strikes a note. That would be a very controlled approach to getting everything back to standard wiring and quality. Can you point to any resources that go through wiring harness removal? I'm guessing it's probably pick a starting point, then disconnect and follow until you get an entire harness off, but I've been WAY wrong before. The problems have all been downstream so far with wire breaks and bad grounds. But the fuse block under the dash has cut wires hanging off it, wires pressed into fuses from the top, wires spliced together with electrical tape.. everything you can imagine. So I'm kind of looking at this as a "fix it before it breaks" project so I can pick convenient times to have the truck out of service.

Hi All, The wiring on my bullnose is a mess. Someone was in it at one point and left a rat's nest of wires and inline fuses. Whenever something quits working I chase down bad grounds, wire breaks, fuses in odd places, basically all the "stuff". I was reading about relocating the fuse block in Gary's writeup, and am wondering what size lift it would be to locate a fuse block in the engine bay and rewire one circuit at a time into the new circuit block. Just bypass the existing wiring a little bit at a time until it's all gone. It can't be too complex on a carbureted engine, right? Lights, ignition, distributor, wipers, alternator, radio, a few dash indicators, etc.. etc.. It seems like it will be a lot less work than trying to trace and patch together the existing circuits. Thoughts and experience?

Thank you all, this is extremely helpful! I'm going to keep my eyes open for a 4.02 T19. They're not as readily available as I first thought, but I'm sure one will come up eventually. The engine going in will be built for low-end torque, so that might just be the ticket.

The calculator is great - thanks for pointing it out. I appreciate the NP205 information, it's invaluable to know what's original and what's not before I start trying to fix things and order parts. I've gotten burned a few times already with that scenario already.