Coco

do you still have one floating around? i’ve been looking for one for a while so i can put my new 4x4 trans in the truck, but all the ones at local yards are rotten or impossible to remove from the truck

oh my, these are very nice!! i’ll admit i’m pretty terrible at navigating forums and sites without my computer, my phone is too small lol. these links are much easier!

ahhh, okay so i was originally right when i removed them. the new 6.0 harness had a female 4 terminal plug that i cut off, and crimped each set to a 10ga wire and ran to the relay. part of the goal is to make my engine bay as clean and tidy as possible to make work easier (and so i can flex on my friends lol). the fuseable links all feel very old—i’d expect so from a 40 year old truck lol, would it hurt to replace them with modern fuse links? i work at “o’reallys” so they’re pretty cheap, and easier to replace should it blow later i will try to get out there tomorrow morning before work, and look at the terminals; just double check everything using the diagrams that were posted earlier. thanks for your help with that, i’ve been running around circles for days now trying to figure out how glow plug power feed wires could have possibly messed up my cab power. there’s a reason i only like wiring light bars and speakers 😂😂

those are the two wires i removed when i did gutted the factory harness. i also shortened the two wires on the opposite side of the plug which were on the relay as well but i don’t remember where they went or what they controlled

those diagrams are a godsend bro, that explains a lot!! i believe the wires i cut were the “Battery Feed” terminal on the engine harness. 10 gauge orange wire, bottom left corner in the photo. that would probably explain why i randomly lost power AFTER screwing with the wiring 🤦‍♂️ i’ll try and get some photos of my truck when i get home; but from what i’ve seen and the diagram it looks like that’s the culprit (hopefully). my next question is, if i cut the battery feed wire, where does it need to go? on the relay or straight to battery? it has been a while since my truck had the original glow plug relay, and when it did i was not messing with it lol so i don’t remember the factory routing and everything

hey everyone, hope you’re doing well! i recently switched my 6.9 IDI glow plug harness for a 6.0 Powerstroke harness. i did the 7.3 idi glow plug system conversion, which worked, it has 7.3 plugs and relay, however when i gutted the original glow plug harness to clean up the engine bay i must’ve cut the wrong wire somewhere because i have no power to my cab. custom wired courtesy lights, dash, headlights, cargo/dome lights all did nothing. batteries are brand new, and their grounds were JUST cleaned when i did my lift pump. the only wires i removed were the 2 orange 10 gauge wires that split off to each plug. the bullet connectors i originally used for the conversion loosened up and started popping off the plugs anytime they were touched by something else which is what opted the 6.0 harness in the first place. and it looks amazing in the engine lol i did try following the wires to see where they go, but can’t find anything beyond the plug. the two orange wires disappear and go into 6 or 7 other wires that all route past the A/C stuff on the passenger side into the firewall. if those orange wires ARE the power feed to the cab harness, then where should i connect them? i can’t remember if/where they were on the 7.3 GP, because the 6.0 harness has its own wires to get the signal from. any help is greatly appreciated!!

hey everyone; i need some wiring help. i don’t do a lot of wiring, although i want to learn. i recently ordered LoyoLight led headlights cuz they look sick, and they fit anything with an H6054. they’re new bronco style 6000kw leds with custom blinkers, DRL, and fancy high/low beams. trying to connect the wires for the turn signals not only broke the female connection for the turn signals on the new lights, i also straight up don’t have turn signals at all anymore? i’ve run into this problem before, turn signals worked intermittently, but this is just annoying at this point. with OEM style Sylvania’s it was fine but now idk what the hell’s going on. i rigged the wires together, so there’s a decent connection (i’m going to go back through and fix it with hands on help later) but now the little dash (that should turn orange to blink, and stay white when it’s just a normal light) is permanently orange. only the driver side has been messed with, the passenger side i just plugged in to the factory connector, so it’s still white, but still no blinker. not even factory or aftermarket blink front or rear anywhere. what the hell am i supposed to do with it? i have clamp on connectors that self splice and have quick disconnects on them for the oe wires, did i clamp it on the wrong one? (i clamped it onto the brown wire from the parking light because that’s what the chilton manual said) but i’m not sure why it’s not blinking anymore. i was hoping this would be an easy job, and a sick mod, because they do look really good on her, but it feels like any time i even touch the damn thing it breaks itself more and then i’m stuck paying another couple hundred dollars to fix 15 more problems on it. if anyone has experience wiring turn signals into aftermarket headlights or any explanation as to why it’s being weird, please help, i just keep getting frustrated and angry with it, and it’s just building up. she did have turn signals when she was running, before the fuel filter decided to crack itself open, which i haven’t gotten to fixing yet so i can’t test it to see if it’s only when she’s running vs engine off. but; i do know for a fact, that she did have turn signals both engine on and off before; i just don’t know what’s going on now.

i found one too!! took a little digging on google, but i verified that the part in my system is in fact the wrong one. we don’t carry it at all, so i’ll have to go across the street to AutoZone after work and order it from them. thank you guys so much for your help!! if this doesn’t fix the gauges, where should i start looking next?

ooh wow there’s a lot more to the LEDs than i thought. i might stick with stock lights and replace the bulbs with OEM ones instead. the lights that DO/did work are bright enough i haven’t had any issues seeing them. it’s only the panel lights that are dim; although i know that’s on every old Ford rig out there. My old ‘90 F-250 was the same way, and so is my ‘90 Ranger. i’m trying to look up the ICVR thing for the gauges though, since i’m at work at oreillys right now, but can’t pull anything up. is there a part number or something specific that it could be called anyone knows of that might help my computer pull it up?

okay, awesome thank you!! i’ll find part numbers for the dash lights today at work to cross reference on amazon for LED counterparts. one of my coworkers is super super adamant about LED swapping all lights because they’re better for the vehicle and the driver, so i’ll probably replace all the bulbs when i do the ICVR. i did see a video today where a guy was explaining how he fixed his fuel gauge, and he pulled the tank selector switch and cleaned it so the connection was good enough to carry the relay. jim, (the owner of the truck just before me) said that he’d sometimes run into an issue where the fuel tank wouldn’t switch properly, and he’d have to flip it back and then switch to the desired tank again to get the tanks to switch. should i start with replacing that switch as well, if it still has troubles with the gauges after the ICVR?

sorry for the confusion!! yes, the gauge lights work, but there are no gauges. i can confirm that windshield wipers, and radio work for sure. i don’t have a digital clock, and i haven’t had a chance to try speed control yet. i’ll plan on pulling the dash apart next week—i think for sunday i’ll just fill up the front tank again with diesel and then fill the rear to at least half, and top off on all fluids just in case. how am i going to know if the ICVR is bad, or is the only way to unplug it and ground a gauge?

some more information that might be helpful for anyone: ac control panel does have light. radio and horn both work, and the dimmer functions normally for the instrument panel light when twisted. i don’t have a dome light; im assuming the bulb burned out a long time ago, because the dome light cover is missing. i’m going to replace the bulb and see if it works when put in, but i’m really not sure what the problem could be. it isn’t fuses, and i have no idea how it could be wiring since it all worked before?

hey all, i’m stumped and i really gotta get this problem fixed asap. i had my headlight switch replaced by a mechanic a while ago, due to no headlights or dash lights. before, i had some dash lights like turn signals, seatbelt, and all gauges worked besides oil. now, i have headlights, and all exterior lights, but nothings on the dash? high beam light works now, and the seatbelt light but that’s it. i have gauge lights, albeit dim and nearly useless at night, but now no gauges work. i’ve checked the fuses and they’re all fine. i’ve replaced everything that was blown, and still nothing. i really don’t know what the problem could be, although i’ve heard from coworkers/experienced people that i might have to tear the dash apart to fix the lights, but that doesn’t explain the sudden loss of gauges. i need to have at the very least a fuel tank gauge for either front or rear tank, since i have a date this sunday with someone, and im picking her up in the truck. if anyone knows any possible fixes please let me know!! im at a complete loss rn, other than taking the truck into a different shop and seeing if they can undo whatever the previous shop did

hey guys, haven’t been active lately here but the ‘84 F-250 6.9 IDI i started back in August is almost done!! i had her driving again for the first time in 6ish years just last week before the “new” fuel filter gave out on me and now causes a rough time starting. i’ve got some light engine work to redo and fix, now that she’s been daily’d for a week and a half; but i’ve got a couple questions regarding the front end rebuild, and some electrical(?) problems. to start off; today i installed new a full new tie rod set, because the original set was stock and super super loose. i want to install a leveling kit in the front, and new coils to lift the truck, and add blocks to the rear leaves for a couple extra inches so it has a nice, semi-assertive stance, without being overly aggressive and big. im going to order the coils, kingpins, and hopefully leveling kit on thursday when i get payed; so i can hopefully have the truck put back together in time for a date on sunday. my main question with the front end is; are the leveling pucks compatible between F-Series’s models? most of what i find F-250-wise is all ‘99-present, or 4wd leaf spring suspension, which i don’t have, i have 2wd IFS. if they are, then would any puck set work, and what thread pitch do i need? secondly; after replacing the headlight switch inside the dash, i lost gauges, dash turn signals, and everything else, except speedo, backlight, high beams and seatbelt warning light. i’m not sure why, but now there’s nothing. all exterior lights work, turn signals, high beams, low beams, tail, brake, and reverse lights, but nothing on the dash besides that. these originally worked before, when the headlights and exterior lights didn’t work, although turn signals (in and out) were hit or miss. is this a normal problem, and where should i start looking for causes? i checked all the fuses when i first purchased the truck last year, and replaced all the popped ones, but should i go back through and check again or do i need to tear the entire dash apart and get behind it all to see what’s up? i am on a bit of a schedule, i’d like to have as much of this work done as possible for sunday, so if there’s any east fixes or hacks for anything they’d be greatly appreciated!! i hope you are all well and thriving!!

okay. i don’t have bushings on my latch pins either. just straight metal. i’m almost guaranteeing the issue is the hinges. the top hinges pin is bent wrong, and just needs to be replaced. i know the blue set from the junkyard are in good working order. the truck i pulled those off of open and close just as well as they did back in 1985 when that truck was made. i’m not sure what the guys at the yards do, but all of their trucks’ doors are in near mint condition, while most my friends with “older” trucks/cars always have some issue with their doors. (i say older because i have the oldest truck out of anyone i know besides my grandpa) i’ll replace the hinges and latch pin, and make sure everything is lined up and see if it closes. is there an easier way to adjust the door other than removing the fender, closing the door so it’s all lined up, and then bolting everything in?