Shankles McBullnose

I think I did it as I was jacking the trans up and it was being pressed against the firewall. I do have the part and Ill take the welding path into consideration thanks! I have a lift and a place I can marry the two outside of the truck so I will definitely do that soon. As of late, I have been getting back into bringing this thing back to life and realizing the variety of parts I have. Lot of research to make sure I have what I need and know what to do to avoid rookie mistakes like this going forward...

81 F150 with a 460 here. Slowly working on the truck and was attempting to put the engine and tranny back together when I ended up snapping the right wing on the c6 Bellhousing. Bolt hole up top had already been broken when I bought so now it's down two places to mount. Is it pretty much scrap at this point or could it be sold or something? I have had my mind set on doing a zf5 switch to manual possibly but just to trying to see if anyr could be done with this c6 now that this happened. Any thoughts appreciated!

Mat if it helps any, the drive couldn't have been more than 5-10 miles. I had my radiator fans on the entire time. Lots of stop and go at lights. Was just trying to get it home I did notice oil on a few of the plugs. I thought it may have been gasoline but a few days later and they are still wet. Whatever I find, I will keep you all posted

The radiator was too small from the beginning. That was something that was on the list of things to fix it initially so it was kind of the catalyst. But yes. And at the time it was only water so I shouldn't say coolant

Electric choke has never been connected since I've had it. But I will connect if it means more consistent starts

The electric choke is currently disconnected. Also, I'm in Florida and it is not cold currently. No fuel shooting out. The fuel is just under the sight glass of the bowl and isn't going above it when I crank it. It did when it warmed up which I thought may have been from vapor lock. It would only overflow once the truck was off.

Still working through the harness....been dealing with some other glaring issues first. Frankie is sitting in the driveway currently unable to start. I've had a few issues since I rebuilt my carb and I'm a bit concerned that maybe my carb works a bit too well since I did. Even if I almost completely close the adjustment screws I just can't get it to fire up. I've replaced the ignition coil and wires (may need to trim them) and I am getting 12v at the coil so I don't think its that. It cranks but shows no signs of firing up. The last time I drove it I barely made it home because it overheated and shot water out of the radiator (running rich then too). That prompted me to get a bigger radiator and fans since the ones that were installed were a bit small but I've been unable to test them out. I've dealt with fuel spitting out of the carb, backfiring, pretty much any issues you can have and they all kinda point to too much fuel. Would smaller jets help maybe? Power valve is same size as original. It just seems like no matter what I do I still get too much fuel. Could the carb just be failing? I know there's a few things I need to check but I guess I just am brainstorming out loud....any thoughts on anything I could also check that maybe I haven't considered. Spark plugs are brand new. As is my ignition module.

I was just looking and the digital gauge cluster I got from intellitronix has a voltmeter that just pulls the voltage from the board itself so it has no hook up for an ammeter. I'll probably get an aftermarket one later. I'm not even ready to hook up the panel yet

I am I just like to understand what and why something is the way it is

Do these two behave any differently?

One other question for the alternator. I've seen the a terminal connects to the b+ post, so the yellow wire is connected back to the alternator. I've also seen where that yellow wire goes directly to the a post on the relay. Any reason behind that?

I have wired the pgmr and the alternator is connected to that ignition wire. Does the "I" terminal on the relay stay empty?

Would probably help to add the photo I'm talking about.

Just installed a pgmr starter and a 3g alternator and could use some clarification on some things pertaining to the ignition connection pictured. Is the junction circled in green necessary? I assume the alternator takes over the ignition once it's on. If it is, do I need any kind of diode to prevent any back feed? Is that junction The ignition switch connector? Do I also still need to utilize the I terminal on the relay?? I have so many questions The haynes manual takes into account the stock wiring so I can only go so far with that. There are so many different ways to go about this I've had a hard time finding one source that has done both pgmr and 3g upgrade. I've kind of had to work through what makes the most sense in terms of wiring and electricity flow.

I've been combing the forum and many like it asking the same Duraspark II questions in reference to wiring. Was close to purchasing a ballast resistor but stumbled on something in reference to my particular coil. The previous owner must have just given up and installed a push button ignition to overcome the wiring of the hot in start. Basically I have to turn my key to start and then ignite the truck with the button underneath the steering wheel. For the most part I have the original wiring for now but I want to redo it all for my sanity. The first question I have is, I have an Edelbrock Max Fire coil, which has an internal resistor of 1.4 ohms, which from my understanding is what the ballast resistor is used for to limit that constant 12v from frying a stock coil. So I don't need another resistor essentially? I think the pink resistance wire may still be present also. I'm trying to eliminate the push button so it just fires from the key. I have a 4 terminal solenoid. I have seen and read many different ways to go about wiring the Duraspark II. I noticed my red/green wire was hooked up to the white wire on the module, and the white/blue to the red, which I also read this line was "backwards" . I guess I'm just trying confirm where I put that bypass so it works solely from the key. I attempted last night and was pretty sure the starter continued to run so that was probably wrong lol