James191145

Just something to check out while your in there...... There is a small ground wire (maybe 12gauge) near the battery that HAS to be connected to ground. This probably isnt your problem but it is crucial and no pump will run without it.

I got it, it was in my junk mail. Will get it packed up when i get home from work.

Ahh, this Part...... Pay for postage and it's yours. shouldn't be much.

Is this what you are asking for?

On the c series , it is a single plane manifold. Doesnt matter which orientation on that one. The dual plane requires throttle toward firewall.

The carb is oriented where electric choke is facing radiator and throttle lever towards firewall. This orientation is for the 6019DP manifold.

I wouldn't call these bed rails durable at all. I have always treated them very lightly. No way I would put a ratchet strap on them. I tie tarps down for dump runs and that's about it. Bungee cords and ropes only and even then I wouldn't trust them to hold anything with weight. I consider them decorations. Will they hold your bedliner down, probably but the bases are made specifically to the contour of the bed so they probably wouldn't sit right and be even less durable.

Yes it is an 8ft bed. It has been a while since i have had them off and cant remember exactly how they mount. I am pretty sure a big slotted screwdriver is all thats needed to remove them so i assume it would have to be some sort of expanding retainer.

Wondering if anyone has any interest in these nice original bed rails. If your in my area (Greenbrier , TN 37073) make an offer. I don't think shipping is a good idea. Will trade also.

Chris, The door I received took #6 nylon lock Nuts. # 8 would bust the plastic.

Since I have the old broken door, I might as well post pictures of it.

Looks good gary, the difference is only where the screwdriver points. That got me too. "Did i take the same picture twice?" the second one points to the lower cluster screws but the screwdriver blended right in so you barely see it. I will have to add, I had no part in designing that door. I am only a "beta tester" of sorts. Chris sent me one at cost to install and work out bugs. There were no bugs at all. Everything lined up perfectly. Our only real concern was fitment in different trucks and it being able to handle the heat. I will admit I fell short on including pictures of the door itself. When I got to that point I was so excited I buzzed right into reassembly and forgot pictures. I am planning on buying another from chris and doing one of my other trucks as they all suffer from this problem. When I do that I will try to take some pictures of the box/door itself. I did send chris a couple videos of operation before and after. It might be possible to snag a screenshot from the video. BTW, I experienced frustration too trying to get them all rotated right. I wrote the entire post and then previewed and they were 90 degrees off. I simply used my image viewer to rotate them all the way around and saved them then erased the image src code from the post and re uploaded images. I did a little research and it seems to be some sort of code apple embeds in the images for rotation that this sight doesn't recognize. I can send you original pictures if that will help. Also feel free to re-word if I didn't explain well or if you have anything to add.

Absolutely Yes!, I knew this wasn't the best place to post but I wanted it attached to chris's door project somehow. Thanks Gary!

Chris's newly engineered door has been installed and I will have to say it was a very smooth install. Everything went in great! The hardest part was getting those old pesky rivets drilled out of the old door. I took a bunch of pictures showcasing the fasteners that have to be removed to do this job properly. I know a lot of the bullnose members can do this blind folded so this is for the intimidated and inexperienced. First I removed the Instrument Panel Bezel. There are three screws securing this bezel and two knobs for the headlights and Windshield Wipers. Remove the three screws in a row above the instrument cluster. (diesels also have a connector for the "wait to start" indicator that will need to be unplugged) There is a notch in the knobs to provide access to the retention clips. Insert a small straight blade screwdriver into notch and pull the screwdriver towards you. This should release the knob fairly easily. Now You can remove the Cluster Bezel. You will have to twist the bezel a little where it goes around the column to remove. Be careful , it's 40 years old! Remove the Phillips screws around the perimeter of the instrument cluster. Reach around the left side and remove speedometer cable. Sometimes it can be difficult. Pinch and pull the cable until it releases. Now reach to the right side and unplug the wiring connector from the cluster. It is a wide rectangular connector. Squeeze the left and right side of the connector until it releases. Be gentle the foil circuit on the back of the cluster can easily be damaged. Remove the knee Bolster by removing two screws. Remove the Radio Bezel. Two screws in top. It tilts back and pulls up and out. You should also take the time to remove your radio. I was able to leave mine installed but you may not be able too depending on wire routing and lengths. Remove the 4 screws holding the A/C - Heat control Panel. Do not remove the A/C control, It will stay in place. Remove the four upper dash cap screws located at the defrost vents. Remove ONLY the two lower dash cap screws shown in the pictures. CAREFULLY remove dash cap. Left Side Right Side Remove the two center support screws. Remove the left and right kick panels. The first door sill plate screw will need to be removed. The kick panels have one screw each in the middle below the dash. Slide the bottom of the kick panel out from under the sill plate and pull the bottom towards you. There is a plastic "christmas tree" retainer that may be difficult to get loose if yours have never been removed so be careful. 40 year old truck. Remove the glove box liner. There are 5 screws including the ones on the small cables. Now we need to drop the steering column. using a 9/16 socket or wrench remove the two mounting bolts and drop column allowing steering wheel to rest on seat. There is one screw that needs to be removed that was above column. Remove One Emergency brake screw and the Hood release. Remove the lower Dash Brace bolt. it is on the passenger side to the left of glove box. There are four bolts on each corner of the dash that need to be removed. The two upper ones are near the intersection of windshield and pillar post on each side. The two lower ones are inserted from the side. The passenger side is behind the glove box door. When you remove these four your dash should be free so be ready! Let the dash roll toward the floor until you have enough room to service your broken door. You will Need to remove two rivets two screws and the actuator arm pin to get the old broken door out.

So you plan on using a surface grinder? I would be weary of machining with a shell mill or flycutter on a mag chuck.