gtanns

Gary, how did you end up mounting that bumper? I have the same one. I went to a fab shop and he said he could make me some, but I'm wondering if purchasing these: https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/en/trucks/body/bumpers/c4tz-17787-set-rear-bumper-bracket-set-styles and then having the shop modify those, would be less hassle than making new ones outright? .. or better yet, if someone has a lead on these brackets, let me know! Got a lot of updates/progress pics for my project thread, just waiting to post them all.

Well, finally figured out the lights with the father in law last wknd. THANK You for the EVTM..The old lights had two filaments/bulbs (Hi-Beam (g/b)) & ( Lo-Beam (r/b)) running power from the dimmer switch on the floor. The new projector lights run one bulb with constant power, and the difference @ the dimmer switch is that the switch needs to operate a mechanical shutter that cuts off the light, rather than another bulb. In order to keep my high beam dash light working in order-- I swapped the low beam / hi beam wires at the light and then merged the power for the lowbeam (r/b)and constant power (r/y) at the dimmer switch. FINALLY! Didn't use the aftermarket headlight harness w relays because the LED draw so little power, just extra wiring. Next... onto oil pressure sensor and engine temp sensor! Merged the constant power (r/y) to the old low beam power (r/b) (constant power @ headlight when switch is pulled) Filled the garage with a little smoke to test Lo-Beam On: Hi-Beam On:

AWESOME build man!

Godsend w/ the EVTM manual and the insight.. THANK YOU! I actually have one of these harnesses at the house. I think it sounds like this will (hopefully) fix it. And I need to get a circuit tester of course, just hadn't had a chance to stop @ Cdn Tire so going on trial and error and ran every trial in the book I think. Got to a point last night where then the low beams would come on... on one side. Then hitting the floor dimmer switch would change the low beam to the other side (no high beams). Will update this wknd. Thank you guys

Anyone an idea why my high beams might turn off when i use the foot operated high beam switch? the high beam and side markers turn off when i use the switch on the floor. I took the switch apart and it appears to work. I have LED projector head lights, and i've changed the diodes around on there, and still nothing. kind of confused. though it must have been the foot switch, alas, it looks like it's working, as it's mechanical I can see the switch change over when I took it apart and pressed it in... Back at it tmw, just figured I put it out there in case any time savers where to turn next.. crawling through the wiring dia!

Thanks FuzzFace! That is all very useful info. So for whatever reason i discovered the front lights were working after all, just not flashing. I have figured out the issue -- I have all new LED lights, and I needed a flasher that is able to flash for the LED's. To confirm also, yes the flasher on the front of fusebox (1980) is turn signals. This is the part i ordered from LMC The four ways don't work, so I'll order another one for that, and use the cables they provide to mount it off the fusebox because it won't fit in the back. I also just installed today a Lokar throttle cable and transmission kickdown onto my Fitech unit. I took pics along the way I'll post that soon! It was raining and i don't have my wipers on yet, so haven't gone for a rip.

Hey guys! Well the truck is running, no air cleaner yet because I've got the fitech unit, the regular transmission kickdown bar doesn't fit. They'll get ya $. Anyways, I had to grab a special bracket, throttle cable and transmission kickdown cable that integrates with the fitech, then I'll get an air cleaner with the right clearance. So without this stuff on yet, and with my oil pressure and ammeter temperature gauges not wired, i haven't been driving too much, but did get a chance to do a dump run :) I'm currently working on turn signal wiring and have a little issue I was hoping I could get some guidance on: Sooo.. RE the turn signals: When I started this resto, my turn signal indicator latch was broken so the right signal wouldn't stay on. I bought a new unit and pulled the wheel and installed that during the process. Now my issue is this: - My running lights and headlights work (although the highbeam switch, when pressed, turns off the headlights completely, so I think that may be a switch issue?.. will use separate post....) - Now, when I use the turn signal, the rear signal light goes on (both sides) but does not flash... and the front signal light does not brighten or flash at all. (- I should note also, that the heater doesn't work and I think they share the same power?) - in any case, I've traced some wiring and i THINK it might be the turn signal flasher? this is all new to me though, so any pointers are very appreciated. - Front DS signal is Green w/ white stripe which runs into a double connection int he harness under the wheel, and matches the green w white stripe coming from the steering column - Front PS signal is White w/ Blue stripe and runs into a connection in the harness under the wheel and matches the white w/ blue strip coming from the steering column - Looking at the fuse box on the 15 amp turn signal fuse, in the back there is ONE purple wire going into this fuse... - Looking at the wiring diagram for this it shows a Green wire w/ red stripe, but I don't know where this leads... MY QUESTION: looking at the wiring diagrams and the wiring, am i missing anything here, or do you think it's just a flasher? And wis one of these units on the fuse box the emergency flasher and one the turn signal flasher? which is which? Also to note - when the turn signal is on, the indicator light on the bezel does NOT go on.. Any help or pointers are VERY appreciated.... THANK YOU !!! 1980 wiring Diagram, see 'C-805' is the front of the fuse box top left. Also what is the 'speed control' , is that cruise control? I don't have that... and where is the turn and emergency signal switch? In the steering column?? Front of fuse box: Back of fuse box: I think that light blue wire (see wiring dia) is part of this puzzle but i don't know how..?

Lookin' good gtanns! Please do post up some glamour shots when it's all fired up and rollin'! Hey guys !! Well finally started the engine up a couple days ago !! Gosh what a feeling.. Life going a million miles a minute, right now, I'm getting married Oct 12, and doing my best to get this thing rolling full forse! Got the lights loosely wired up last night and slugged er along to the alignment shop today, to the transmission shop to put in the kickdown bar thing tmw.. One thing I'm missing is this: Ford part 22023 - the key lock retainer for both sides. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble-td1084i20 You guys were chatting about it in here, but any idea where I can buy one of these?? Is it the same retainer on any model 1980-86? EX, can i just pull one at the wrecker? Any ASAP input very appreciated, trying to get this sorted ASAP so i can lock the truck in public. Thanks keep you guys posted.. truck sounds awesome

Yeah, that colour is VERY sharp Rembrant! Really like that. Will be nice to see it on the road, of course. I was in Amherst area for a wedding in the summer and I don't know where you live, but i kept hoping i'd see your stepside cruisin past somewhere

COOLING: I bought a 3 row aluminum rad from Rock Auto that fit the old brackets for the original stock rad. I also put in new tranny fluid (and yes loaded the B&M torque converter with fluid too when we put that in!) and then had another radiator laying around, so used that and mounted it in front of the big rad on the PS. Also, i picked up a power steering rad from an old HD F250 and installed that on the DS. I don't have a photo of the shroud/fans right now, but i've got two electric fans in there, and mounted a thermostat switch in the radiator to trigger the fans. Project was taking too long at these guys barn, so for the last part here, I've had it towed to a shop that is going to get everything tight and hopefully have this puppy purring within a couple weeks!

I'm going to have to get back to you on the pistons and camshaft. I know they were Silv-o-lite pistons and a comp cam flat tappet. (I thought i was getting a roller cam, so i was kinda choked about that). Gosh does this ever take a while lol..been non-stop on this thing. I was expecting some hiccups, but yeah.. there are always more than you anticipate! I'm getting married Oct 12th so REALLY doing my best to get this thing rolling by then! Here are a string of updates: HEADERS: Hooker 6916HKR - I had some trouble fitting these as the pipe was touching the frame on PS and also very close to the oilpan on DS. After three rounds of heating and banging around, they fit! Wrapped them in DEI Titanium header wrap. EXHAUST: Dual side dump exhaust routed quite nicely actually. I was all stressed about where to route these the way I wanted, then had an aha moment and they routed very nicely ! Magnaflow 12256 I think and 304 stainless 2.5" pipe. I just polished the tips. Also not seen in the pic, the DS exhaust has the FiTech oxygen sensor mounted near the front INTERIOR VINYL: Used this stuff called Rapper Xtreme. it's 4-way stretch snowmobile vinyl rated for like -40. And I got this contact adhesive called DAP Weldwood Contact Adhesive. Couldn't find it in Canada so i ordered to my American mailbox and brought it over. It is top notch. Highly recommend! For the doors do a rough trace and then start from the middle out. The vinyl stretches nice, but don't over stretch it, or you will be left with a ripple at the end. After one part sticks, map it out with your hands and use a sharpie to mark the underside some points where to spread the glue for the next part, and so on. With the headliner, i had the advantage of having the back window out so i used clamps to hold up the vinyl while i marked it with a sharpie. I made guideline marks and then did the same thing and glued one section at a time. i put painters around the edges so that the contact cement wouldn't glue down on the edges. The interior plastic trim finishes about 1/4" off the ceiling. The vinyl is not that thick, so I cut pieces of an old headliner and then glued them around the edges at the end to finish it (you can see this in the photo of the interior light). Behind the seat same idea.. i put some relief cuts in that series of dimples across the back EXTERIOR VINYL WRAP: I bought 3M Satin Black vinyl, and hired this guy to come out and do it. Unforuntately, there were some delays getting him to come out to finish so it put the project behind a month, but it's finished now and the work is good. I used black plastidip to spray parts of that piece between the hood and the windshield (i took this from a 1987 so instead of the straight holes, it's a LOT of perforations) GASTANK & REAR WINDOW: Tank is in and I used this pump and this sending unit and have 3/8 PTFE braided line with an inline 100 micron filter. Got the charcoal filter line plumbed in and then have another air vent line that will thread into the side of the filler neck. After the vinyl was done, I could put in the back window. Got the lightest tint available from CR Laurence for the window. Stretched the new rubber around it and then took a 1/8" string and ran it along the inside of the rubber. Had some helpers hold it in place and i worked the rubber in starting in the bottom middle and towards the corners pulling the string. Of course the string broke a couple times. There was a lot of sweat and swearing during this process, and blood actually from inadvertently punching myself in the head when the string broke, but with the help of additional hands and a plastic wedge, we were able to get it in. I put Black auto adhesive in the corners just to secure any potential gaps... thought i had it covered, but then unforuntately noticed a bit of water along the bottom DS section of the window after a rainstorm...will investigate further later, but it's good for now!

two 12" electric rad fans with mounts and temp controller Chrome exterior 12 V 80 W By Performance World (Mopac)

Hey guys, I ordered these from LMC, but didn't like them, so went with the originals. They retail on LMC for $ 149 usd which was crazy.... If someone wants them for $60 usd plus shipping, please let me know! THANKS !!

So I went to see a guy this morning that has nothing but pre-97 F truck parts. He's only about an hour away, but I had never been there before as he mostly has 87-96 stuff, and he never really had any of the previous items I was on the hunt for. However, he does still have some Bullnose trucks kickin' around, and he said he had the swaybar parts that I wanted. I got a front crossmember with the mounts still intact, and a swaybar with the ends cut off. It has 86 written on it, so it may very well have come off a Bullnose. I didn't need the crossmember, but it came as a package deal. A little surface rust, but otherwise good condition. A complete front swaybar I believe out of an '87-'91 F150. You can see that the coil spring isolators are the white plastic ones, and not the flat rubber disks like on my '84. With a little sand blasting and fresh paint they should clean up OK. And finally, a complete rear swaybar that is supposed to be for an F150 with an 8.8 rear end. Again, a little surface rust, but in good condition otherwise. Sand blast and paint and it will look like new. I'm hoping this stuff all fits OK. It was cheap enough, and I'll get new end links and rubber bushings, etc. If this stuff doesn't tighten the old girl up, nothing will. I'm looking for a front sway bar for my 1980 f150 4x4 ... have you installed the front sway bar ? Did it fit??

Some late night updates! Time is goin fast now and its coming together quick. Ripped out the inside firewall stuff and everything, dynamat and insulation on the floor. thought i had a leak but ended up when you dump a lot of water on the windsheild the volume is too much flow for the little air vent in the door by the highbeam switch. cleaned out some muck that had been stuck in there years. Engine in and headers on; 2000 b&m torque converter Ps header is touching the frame, just. on the one pipe, gonna take it off and nudge it over/make it fit here with a 2x4 maybe, it touches between a crossmember on the frame. Ds header is pretty close to the oilpan, going to do the same here. There are some pretty great heatshield companies out there, so probably use some here also with some air clearance. the ds header had to take out the drive shaft, and will have to take off the dipstick tube also and then snake it back to the pan. I just bent the tube enough to mock up the ds header first. Going to run side dump 2.5 exhaust on both ds adn ps and route them under, and then along the outside frame with a flex join and then 45 in front of the rear wheels Comin along though! That's it for today