ford4wd08

No sending unit in the aux tank. I was thinking something along the lines of a timer. I have also used a speed switch in the past for another application, but could hook it up to a relay to trigger the pump at a certain speed and turn off when it's below that with a manual override.

Since we are talking about fuel tanks and getting more range for a 460, I have a couple of questions about my restore/build of my grandad's truck. The truck came with only one side mount 15 gallon (or whatever it is) tank. Since it was new it's had an aux has tank mounted below the flatbed as seen in this picture. The way it was rigged up to use was having and electric pump mounted on the frame rail and pumped to the filler neck of the stock tank. It was done via manual switch that was easy to leave running. How would you guys suggest managing this type of dual tank in more of an automated solution? This tank is mounted lower than the stock tank and I would like to avoid anything like Ford's failure prone method with the switch on the dash solenoids etc.. Sorry, not trying to thread jack, just curious how one would run two tanks?

Got some more work done over the weekend. Sanded down the old paint and got it all sealed up in epoxy for now. The body work can start now. Going to try and learn some new things this time around. Hopefully I can get it all pretty straight. I also patched up a.few holes in the driver's side floor board.

Yes I know my truck came with a functional gauge. The cluster I bought is out of a '91 so I'll have to jump the resistor like mentioned. I will probably put a t in so I can monitor oil pressure with a gauge from under the hood. This will be important during break in of my new engine/cam.

Thanks for the info. Current radiator doesn't have provision for tranny cooler, but I know most replacements now do. That's not a bad idea to use the one in a radiator.

Agreed on the placement. I think a trans cooler of appropriate size would do the job needed for the power steering pump. Just put it on the discharge side of the steering box seems like it would work and give enough capacity. I would place it where an auto trans cooler would go, since I'm running a manual. Speaking of the ZF trans, what clutch and flywheel are you running Gary? Would like to replace mine for tor new torquey engine 😃

Yes to wiring for the tach. Should be plug and play. I do think have to jump a resistor to get the oil pressure gauge to be a real gauge, but not really a issue. I just think a.stacked cooler out in front of the radiator/AC condenser would do a better job at cooling then a long hose under the engine? I've got some time before I have to worry about that. Just trying to think ahead a little. I know the steering box and pump are getting replaced. They are wore out for sure.

So... Christmas came a little early 😃 I also ordered my L and L headers and my alternator bracket from them today. Been trying to do a little work on the body. Got my replacement hood sanded down and got some epoxy primer on it for now. Have a lot of body work to get done before I circle back to paint. Also found a cluster with a tach in a junk yard, should be a good addition to my truck. I do have one question for you guys, the return line for the power steering pump looks to be long and goes from the pump back around the engine crossmember and back in loops. Was this length required for power steering capacity fluid capacity or for cooling? Wondering if I can eliminate the long length and just install a stacked plate cooler for power steering?

I'm debating on rubber or poly for cab mount. Honest only my core support ones have to be replaced. I can always come back to it and change them out later. Not sure yet. Looks like rubber is out of stock at the moment for the few outlets I've looked at it.

So.... switching gears on this a little bit. Waiting on engine parts to get in, so I am going to get back to planning and working on the body. When I removed my core support, the passenger side below the battery was rotted out. To remove the core support I cut through the bolts with a sawzall just because the mounts and bolts were just too far gone. I am going to have replace the mounts and bolts. I've already ordered a replacement core support. So, while I'm having to add find new core support body mounts, is it worthwhile to upgrade to polyurethane? I'm torn on whether it will give a harsher ride or anything like that. I know my leaf springs could use new bushings too, I came across this kit and giving it some thought too. https://www.suspension.com/packagedeal053#reviews Has anyone upgraded from the OEM rubber mounts on suspension and body?

0.030" over bore and 0.010" on the crank for my rebuild. Not bad. Talked to Scotty today and got my engine kit on order. What a great resource to us 460 guys 👍

Got the 460 block loaded up on my home made pallet tonight from scrap wood I had in the garage. Turned out pretty good I think. This was the best way I could think to transport it.

Off to the machine shop on Tuesday. The guy I'm using is highly recommended and seems to know his stuff. I spoke to him for a bit on Friday. Might be a little slow, but doing it right is worth the wait.

Thanks for the info. I'll likely use the same on mine and eliminate the pipe. Seems unnecessary.

Thanks for the info. There are a couple of 94 and 95 trucks on the lot. I do plan to use a PMGR because of my upped compression when I'm done with the engine build and it's size because I'm running headers.