philbobaggins52

Thanks Bill!! I'm not sure about the manufacturer of the alternator, but it seems to be well described by your comment on GM examples! ::))

Hi Jim! I reckon I've answered your queries in my (lengthy) reply today to Gary's posts ::))

Hi again Gary. Here's what I know about this F100: On the air cleaner box it says date of manufacture was July 1986. It seems the truck (or cab/chassis) was at least partially assemble in Australia (I vaguely recall someone once said these motors were made in Canada - no idea if true). One of the regular stumbling blocks has been that I have yet to find a set of wiring diagrams which truly reflect the colour scheme in my harnesses. The nearest I have got to this is a set which is meant to cover 1984-1986 F-Series/Bronco by Haynes. I suspect that Ford Australia supplied the harnesses, using their own colour schemes and switch components (Bosch Australia is stamped on most electrical components from memory). What I have been doing so far is using a mixture of clues from the Haynes manual, from tracing wires on the original harnesses, from diagrams such as the ones you originally posted to help me, and now I have Kwikwire's scheme plus the new EFI harness I made using colours as close as I could source here. I do plan to draw up a set of wiring diagrams to describe what I have done, for the times when understanding what is what becomes necessary. Wish me luck! I'll take a photo of the dash cluster and post it to you - there's a +/- gauge to show charging/discharging and a charge light. The alternator is a two wire one with internal regulation - so, the B+ connector and the exciter connector. Right now, I think we'll be connecting the bulbs and the cluster into the harness, in part to make sure the oil pressure is ok and to monitor temperature, but also to hopefully solve this won't stop issue. I will post again once we've done this :)

Hi Jim, thanks for your input! I reckon I'll transplant the globes and wires from the old harness to the new, plus get onto finishing wiring to the cluster. If this solves the no-stop problem, we can move on! I'll see if the old harness has a resistor too ::)). I'll let everyone know how this goes :)

Hi again Gary! After a week where life got in the way and a mild bout of food poisoning, I have some preliminary feedback on the issue :). My son and I followed your clues re coil voltages, without finding a cause of the symptom. We were suspicious that maybe somehow the alternator was holding up whichever circuits had latched on while the engine was running (because even disconnecting the battery wouldn't stop it). We found that disconnecting the exciter wire enabled the engine to shut down instantly by turning the key to off! A little bit of internet searching on alternator circuitry suggested that it was indeed possible to have this non-stopping sequence if something is missing from the circuit (likely in my case because I am adapting a Kwikwire harness to EFI control). So, I put a 6 amp diode between the exciter wire and the alternator. Like magic, the engine now turns on and off correctly! What I also discovered on the original Ford harness were two light bulbs in the exciter circuit which I had omitted from the rewire. Does it seem likely that these bulbs (they look like dash display plug-ins) are essential for correct running of the alternator? I have not yet completed wiring in the instrument cluster, so there are no connections to the cluster as yet (and no gauges like oil pressure/charge etc). I do wonder will the alternator function properly as wired - can you please make some observations about all this? Again, many thanks for your support! ::)) PS - please feel free to add my location to your map :)

Thanks Dane! I can tell there is kind help aplenty in this Forum! Good to be here :) Kind Regards, Phil

Thank you Jim for taking the time to help - very much appreciated! :) Kind Regards, Phil

Hi Gary! Thank you so much for such a speedy and helpful reply! It feels as though a load has already been lifted :). I will study your words and diagrams asap and hopefully find the mistake(s) in my wiring - I expect the answer will be obvious as soon as I know it! I will give you feedback on progress as it happens. FWIW, I had the engine running for a good five minutes this morning and it sounds mechanically sweet and with a steady exhaust note (I have to time it accurately next). All very promising! Again, many thanks :) Kind Regards, Phil

Hi all! Phil here, Adelaide in Australia. Over the last 4 years I have been restoring a 1986 F100 302 4WD C6 which spent it's first 20 years as an ambulance in country NSW. Over the last few months I have been rewiring it, virtually from scratch. I have installed a Kwikwire 22 circuit wiring harness. Because the engine uses EFI, I decided to open up and copy the relevant parts of the EEC IV harness and connect them to a new 60 pin connector and sensors etc, and overlay this harness onto the Kwikwire job. Long story short, the engine starts readily (both EEC and fuel cut-off relays obviously work fine, along with an unknown list of sensors). The problem is, when I turn the ignition switch to off, the engine keeps happily running. I suspect the ignition switch wiring but my limited understanding of the start-run-stop process means I don't know where to look to resolve this issue. FWIW, I put a toggle switch in line of the pin 30 power feed relay to the high pressure fuel pump, which does cause the engine to stop when switched. My main difficulty is that I have been unable to find any references to the start-stop sequences when you have the ecu controlling ignition and fuel delivery etc. I mean, if I knew the sequence, that should give me clues where to look for whatever is latching the fuel delivery and ignition circuitry to "on"". So, can anyone please point me towards a resource that describes this sequence? Any thoughts would be very much appreciated! :)