Megiddo

The PS bracket on my 351 has the "x" My pulley alignment problem is on the air conditioner, which I have not yet hooked up. The tensioner pulley witch is misaligned by the width of the pulley I'm not sure how these pictures got rotated. Sorry.

Well, Ive got the aircleaner now. I may as well try to clean it up and see if I can get it working. Its a job I'll probably save for a bad weather day if I can ever carve down the "honey-do" list. Thanks for all the input and ideas.

Happy to help.

Thats what I figure but I know a lot of junkyards on fb list that style air cleaner as coming off a 351 truck and they call it a 351HO air cleaner. I personally wouldnt use it as I would want the air to be cool air out from under the hood and that duct on the back side negates the purpose. Might as well run a open element air cleaner if you are going to have that. I myself am still looking at air cleaners but probably will just use silver solder and fix the split aluminum base of my original one and restore it and just use it. I cant justify spending $250+ for a used OE air cleaner I think, if the vacuum motor was working, that door and the hot air would only come in at or near WOT. So would more warm air be better than less cool air? Does a 351 need more airflow than can come through the snorkel at full throttle? I rarely see anything over 4000 rpm. I guess the limiting factor on air for the motor is the carb. I have a plain 4 barrel Holley at 600cfm. I know the stock 2v carb was something like 480 cfm. I'm not sure what you big motor guys have, but I don't think I've seen a truck with a double snorkel cleaner.

I think that 7 pin plug goes to your buzzer. Some of the connections are for the seatbelt and some are for headlamps. I'm pretty sure I unplugged mine.

I found this air cleaner on a Bronco at the junk yard I looks like it has a vacuum operated door on the back inside that "scoop", but the vacuum motor doesn't work. Is that door supposed to open at low vacuum (WOT) for extra airflow? If so, does anyone know where to find a new vacuum motor?

I swapped in a ZF5 instead of the NP435 behind my 351. I had 3 issues to overcome and all were because the ZF5 was about 2 inches longer. 1) I had to move the crossmember back 2 inches. To do this I had to drill new holes in the frame. I also slotted the front hole on the crossmember gussets so I could use the original back bolt hole for the relocated front bolt. 2) New drive shafts. I had the rear shaft shortened and found the correct length front shaft in a junk yard 3) Transfer case linkage. I copied the method Gary showed above of welding a couple of nuts to the linkage and then using a bolt to lengthen it. That also let me adjust the linkage easily. I did also need a transmission tunnel cover from an '87 truck (doesn't have the flat "step" of the bullnose era covers) to fit over the ZF and I cut a hole in it to fit my original transfer case shifter. I am happy with the swap.

I feel your pain. I'm sure you'll have no problem once you get rolling

Thanks, I'll check that

This came with my new camshaft I'm using the Rotella

I tried to find a new harness about 3 years ago (a full one) as my wiring was very brittle. There were no new Ford harnesses and the only kits were generic and used their own (non ford) connectors so would have been even more complicated. I ended up pulling harness out of 2 other trucks I found then, opening up the harnesses (including my original) and cherry picking the best of the 3 wires for each circuit. I was able to free the wires from most of the plastic multi-pin connectors using an eye-glass repair screw driver to depress the little tab inside the plastic connector that holds the metal connector (crimped on the wire) in place. The new, better wire then just snaps back into the plastic connector. The metal connectors on the wires are available, but I only found them in combination multi packs, which isn't an easy way to get what you want. I opted not to use new wires because I needed more than 7 colors to keep from confusing myself about what wire was which circuit. There are some connectors, especially outside the firewall (i think the ignition circuits) that are molded so the wires cannot be detached. I used new non-ford waterproof connectors to replace those.

I tracked my gauge readings (full = 100%) vs miles traveled on my odometer for 5 fill ups on each tank Miles traveled is on the vertical axis, fuel level in % is along the bottom. A perfectly linear 10 mpg is shown as the red line. This has been my consistent average for the 3 1/2 years I've had the truck My front tank is the blue line. It show a lot of movement early then "hangs out below" 1/2 tank My back tank is the green line that shows full for quite a while then quickly moves to empty In the middle of December my mileage fell way off and I had a few backfires and black residue in the exhaust. I took it in had had my catalytic converters taken off and new mufflers put on. The cats had come apart and clogged the mufflers. I thought the back pressure had to be the cause for the sudden change in "efficiency", but my mileage still hasn't recovered all the way and now I'm only getting about 8 mpg. Any thoughts on that?

My best guess at your dangler is that is connector c327. Thats the only grey 3 pin connector listed in the center of the instrument panel. Its shown on page 125 and 130 with the HVAC controls, but in both diagrams it looks like its not plugged into anything. Maybe it was just put in to be a dangler.

The left over part is the turn signal switch. A new one will have all the wires that run down the steering column about a foot or so to a curved connector (C305)

In trying to solve the dangling circuits in your pictures, can you show the plug configuration and describe the wire colors. Any stripes or dots on the wires are hard to see. Also can you tell if they are coming off your main harness or out of the EEC box/sub harness.