Jcris

You intend to fix that with an Arduino computer?Now I will definitely stay tuned for that. Sounds very cool!

Yeah that’s cool You know how this stuff usually goes. It takes more time than you expect and there are pitfalls to overcome. This forum is a good one though, kinda small but some really good guys helping out. Is your rig setup with 2 tanks now? I ask because I’m unsure how the additional pump would be added. Probably be easier if you can use all plumbing and electrical from the 2nd tank. Just curious Also, getting the pump in tank height set is a bit tricky, kinda trial and error Good luck Sent from my iPhone On May 10, 2019, at 6:51 AM, kramttocs [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Thanks. I am actually wanting to keep both tanks as everything is working as expected currently. Was just going to increase capacity if it was easy enough to get an end result where everything worked as if it was stock.Daily driver: 1986 F250 Supercab XLT Lariat 460/C6 Work truck: 1980 F350 C&C 400/T18 - Gin Pole Various parts trucks If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/38-gallon-fuel-tank-install-tp16115p27639.html To unsubscribe from 38 gallon fuel tank install, click here. NAML

If you’re running just one fuel tank take the switching valve and filter housing out completely. The valves in that housing rust and can stop flow completely. Took me awhile to get that figured out Good luck

Modifying the pump seemed fairly straight forward . When the tank was purchased we bought a kit to extend the pump and pickup. The kit was minimal as it only had some tubing and wire. I choose to use some fuel hose to make the connections to extend both pipes. And some worm drive clamps. I was going to use some compression fittings but after seeing the way the stock pump was attached with fuel hose I figured that would be easier. At first I just used an extended piece of fuel hose to determine what actual length of hard tubing to use. I did sight through the filler port with a mirror to "see" where everything ended up. After some trial and error I was able to get it pretty close. I did use some good quality butt connectors to extend the pump wiring. I wanted to just solder/and shrink wrap them but was uncertain how the fuel would affect the solder over time. That is one thing I may change when I get in there. I'm not a big fan of butt connectors, especially if the crimping tool is less than ideal. As for the fuel gauge, it does seem to track pretty well although it only shows an accurate level from half a tank to empty. With a full tank it still only shows half full. I considered installing a reed type switch to get a more accurate reading from full to empty but we decided just to use it as is for now. I will say when the gauge shows empty it is very close to empty. E means empty, no reserve. So it's getting all the fuel. As to the 38 gallon tank it seems like that should have been a stock offering back in the day. As opposed to the 2 separate tanks. That 2 tank system probably worked fine when new but down the road that set-up seemed to cause problems. Just my opinion there. Are you planning a tank install? I wish I'd taken some pics of the work to post here, As you may recall this is my brother in laws truck and they live several hours away. Otherwise I'd take some pics to be more clear. Next time I'm in town I will send some along. If any other questions should occur to you just let me know and I will be glad to help. I'm certainly no expert, far from it, but I've made this change and it seems to be working quite well. So, perhaps my knowledge has improved just a little bit. HaHa Probably won't be able to post on this again for a few weeks. I'll send some pics then Till then, take good care, Jcris

At long last the new gas tank is installed and working properly. I removed the existing side mount tank and filler, both fuel pumps and the fuel lines from the black plastic canister type filter all the way back to the new tank. The only real issues that surfaced were: The black plastic filter turned out to be clogged and the new high pressure pump (located on the frame rail) seems excessively noisy. But the truck has been starting consistently since the work was completed a couple months ago, so I'm leaving it alone until I get a chance to take a closer look. This wasn't a really tough job but did take some thinking, which seems a real struggle sometimes. haha I'm only posting in case someone has specific questions that I may be able to help with. Thanks for a great forum, Jcris

After long last the 86 bullnose is running. The latest test was no fuel pressure. Turns out there’s a black plastic fuel filter bolted on the frame that was clogged. There are 2 return and 2 pressure hoses going through this filter. There are what appear to be check valves in this housing that were rusted closed. I’m guessing those are there to prevent fuel surge but I’m not sure. I removed the spring and rubber diaphragm of both to clear the clogs. Is it a mistake to leave them out? I suspect any related issues won’t occur until rpms are increased but again I’m not sure. These do not look serviceable. Other than replacing the entire filter housing. What do you folks think? Also, is there a link to look up tuning specs for this 302? Thanks so much for a great forum Jcris

Hey thanks guy's, The Ebay part looks good but were trying to just re-use what we have. That flare side bed really looks to be in great condition. Those pic's are very helpful. At least it gives me a birds eye view of what I'm up against. From those pic's I'm convinced the bed needs to come off entirely and thoroughly inspected. We are not going for a 100% original resto. Were just trying to get it back to reliable. Not all that concerned about how it looks, as bad as that may sound. These things can change as we go along but for now the goal is get er runnin. Thanks guys, Jcris

Since I'm probably a year from using them I'm thinking I'd better wait. But, I also found this, and since I have two sets of 8 injectors, maybe I can get them "matched": Yeah I'd wait as well. Regarding flow matching, ideally they would all flow the exact same amount as I'm sure you are aware. Rebuilding them will get you closer but as stated by Cruzin , matching all 8 exactly would more than likely involve more injectors. I wonder how well matched injectors are brand new? I guess if you're dealing with a high end product the performance of each injector would be identical. But, I think for our purposes getting them "closer" is all we really need. BTW, this is an excellent community of enthusiasts. Jcris

Hello Gary, If you haven't sent your injectors out yet, here's another place to look at:http://cruzinperformance.com When I was into BMW's RC and Cruzin were well known and very reputable. Cruzin is $20 per injector where as RC is $24. Not a lot but it all adds up. Regards, Jcris

Yeah I'm quickly beginning to see the need to be creative to repair this bed. I like the idea of the metal bed but my brother-in-law seems reluctant. At this point I'm trying to get him to do more while I'm not around. We really need to get the old bed apart further to figure out a plan. Thanks for the pic's. Jcris

Good tip on mcmaster, I'd forgotten about those folks. And yes it's a flareside. Hey Gary, sure appreciate the offer but I'm looking to replace all the bolts that anchor the bed to the frame as well as those that hold the plywood to the sills, cross supports and entire perimeter of bed. Don't worry about those dimensions I'll figure them out. Not looking for exact stuff, just hardware that will work. Thanks again, Jcris

All the bed hardware on our 86' was so rusted it had to be cut out. I'm trying to figure out if I can replace it more affordably rather than buying one of the kits from MAR-K or similar venders. Where can I find a list that details the specifics? Thanks, Jcris

Thanks for the links guy's. Much appreciated! Jcris

There are a few swap meets in my area (northern California) that may prove helpful but they don't happen till summer mostly. I'd really like to have this truck more sorted by then. We are just looking to get it on the road to begin figuring out what else will be needed to make it reliable. Then we can address those as they come along. The motor and trans run and seem OK but running them consistently, getting them up to temp and really starting to use them is where I think any additional needs will begin to show. I'm looking for new bed rails, the ones that hold the wood in place and both the front and rear sills. Any suggestions on where to get these things would be greatly appreciated. When the sills are removed I'll be able to MAYBE come up with a plan to fabricate them. Budget is an issue so a used part in decent shape would be fine. I realize a used part in usable condition is most likely non existent but I have to try. We are not returning this truck to a pristine condition. It will only be used occasionally and is more a sentimental tie for my brother-in-law. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Jcris

The plywood definitely looks like a better choice. It looks like you went with 3 pieces of ply and left the seems open? Am I seeing that right? I'd rather not use those "rails" to hold the bed in place. The old ones were in pretty bad shape. Were the front and rear sill supports in bad shape. We need to fab something up to replace those with. If I could find a affordable solution I'd just buy something but budget is a concern. This bed had the diamond plate down all the sides as well. I just hope when I get it apart the bed isn't rusted out. Thanks for the pic, it looks great! Jcris