Jbird2200

Thanks, just confirming....wasn't certain that shape was what you were referring to when you said "cone". This truck would essentially check all the boxes except 4 wheel drive, which, based on the previous conversations, the only reasonably straight forward way to do that is with a 4x4 donor, and will require even more work depending on what that donor is. I've been tasked with Jury Duty over the past week and haven't had a chance to look at it, hopefully I can find some time this weekend. Long hiatus, after weeks of jury duty, our swimming pool collapsing and needing replacement, and a difficult time procuring the donor truck, I'm back to working on this project again. Donor truck did have the aftermarket banks system as shown before. The overdrive unit is a gear vendors unit. The reference by the seller regarding "Yukon" was in reference to aftermarket gears, but I'm not certain what ratio they are. At this time, I'm forgoing the pursuit of 4x4 and will assess that in the future if/when I determine it's worth the effort for what this truck will be used for. A slight oversight on my part, I didn't realize my clean truck was not originally an AC truck. The donor is, and I've read multiple threads on the difficulty of the swap. Not sure it's worth it at the moment, but if I decide to do so, it'll need to be done now while I have both firewalls accessible. A cab swap is not an option. For now, I'll be focusing on cleaning up the drivetrain and addressing issues more easily accessed while it's on the shop floor. I'll be cleaning up and powder coating most brackets/etc in the meantime. Then I'll be moving on to address changes needed to wiring, which I'm not looking forward to as the donor truck appears to have been modified in stages (also has an aftermarket exhaust brake to which I'm not certain how it works/is configured). The core support on the donor was in decent shape, but have a few issues to address before I can clean it up well enough for paint or powder coat. I'm almost 100% the radiator is in need of replacement, but will be calling around to price out recores in lieu of buying a cheap aftermarket unit. Other known issue for the moment is, assuming the gear vendors unit works well, I'll need to get measurements and have the driveshaft cut down once everything is bolted into place. Now just to stay focused and get to cleaning so I can assess the AC consideration.

Thanks, just confirming....wasn't certain that shape was what you were referring to when you said "cone". This truck would essentially check all the boxes except 4 wheel drive, which, based on the previous conversations, the only reasonably straight forward way to do that is with a 4x4 donor, and will require even more work depending on what that donor is. I've been tasked with Jury Duty over the past week and haven't had a chance to look at it, hopefully I can find some time this weekend.

The 86 may be able to donate some good parts... but I would think about the following: I’m not sure exactly which overdrive this is, but I’m thinking it may be the same as the Doug Nash / US Gear units? Regardless, I don’t think it is going to help you gain overdrive with a 4x4 drivetrain, at least not without some talented fabrication to adapt it to the back end of a transfer case. I have a Doug Nash that I wanted to use behind a transfer case, but even after the fabrication you run the risk of serious damage to the drivetrain without some kind of lock out to prevent engagement while in 4wd, or engaging 4x4 while in overdrive. All I am saying is evaluate whether this overdrive is actually going to help you. On the Banks turbo kit, the earlier models with the square air boxes are not all that great. They are better than no turbo, but they are non-wastegated and have a large AR exhaust housing. The cross over and up pipes were also transmission-specific, so the automatic transmission pipes for the C6 truck are not going to work out for you if you end up wanting to run a ZF5 for instance. If it is the later Banks with the cone shaped air filter, that is a far better system. That one is at least wastegated and spools much quicker. It is useable with all transmission types, and the T3 flanged up pipe is great for building a custom turbo set up later if you want better performance. The late wastegated Banks sell used for around $1,000ish. The early banks kits sell used for $300-$500ish. Just be aware of what you are buying and what it’s actual value is. Check the turbine shaft for end play as well. If it has end play or excessive axial play the unit needs rebuilt and should be valued accordingly. None of the kit turbo’s are all that spectacular, but certainly an upgrade if you are looking for an affordable bolt on to help it out a little. The truck is an ‘86 but I would not necessarily count on it being the original engine. Look at the block serial number next to the IP gear housing and see if it is a late block with bolt in piston oilers. If it’s a good runner and an early block that may not be a deal breaker, just realize that it cannot realistically be rebuilt since the oilers and tools are obsolete. They can be carefully lock-tite-d in place one more time if skillfully removed, but if the glue fails and one falls out it will ruin your engine. Not a risk I am comfortable with if rebuilding is part of the current or future plans. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n92240/B5B096AF-6EBA-49DA-8574-96978B0E1341.jpeg Great info, thanks! Regarding which banks system, earlier va later, can you tell from this pic?

I agree, and honestly the only things on that list that absolutely have to be bullnose are the core support, and instrument cluster and perhaps battery tray. As already brought up, the core support can be fabricated from a brick or aeronose one, and the cluster can certainly be sourced separately. Basically it’s the tach. If I were looking at donors I would be giving much more consideration to a truck that has a 4x4 overdrive transmission than one that is bullnose. Even if the front axle conversion had to wait, getting the transmission with the engine will really help the overall price of the project. With that being said, what year trucks would you be looking for in my situation? I'm still planning on going to look at the 86' 2wd I mentioned, mostly because the aftermarket components it's already got peaked my interest. I just found out today that I have to serve jury duty for the next one to three weeks, so that's going to slow things down, but I'd like to get the other truck bought within the next couple weeks.

Haha, sorry Gary. Updated avatar and forgot about sig. I'm going to try to look at an 86' 6.9/C6 2wd single cab this week. Truck has banks turbo and yukon over/under drive. Will consider this truck for possible swapping of drivetrain instead of body swap, as I'm considering the "phase 2" approach of waiting on a different solution in the future for 4 wheel drive.

Someone correct me if I’m wrong... but I think this topic has come up before and the consensus is that Ford did not make any F350 Supercabs with 4x4. There are a few random picks of such running about the internet but the assumption is that they were conversions. I’m not here to start an argument about whether Ford did or didn’t offer it, but if they did... they are that rare. This includes the Bricknose and Aeronose years as well, so I think you are unlikely to find a 155” wheelbase 4x4 chassis with a mono-beam front axle unless someone swapped it. If having a straight axle is a hill to die on for you, consider an RSK. If it isn’t, then consider a F250 TTB donor chassis with the right engine. That would make perfectly good sense as to why I have not seen a single one in the past year of searching locally, and currently can't find one nationwide. Thanks for saving me a few hours of internet boredom!

Thanks guys. I understand a 86' F350 SRW 4x4 6.9 Extended Cab truck would be the unicorn for this project, but I've yet to see one. Gary, if you don't mind me asking, all other things considered, and knowing that the 86' described above will be VERY difficult to find, are there any glaring differences I'm not thinking of that would limit my search to any more restrictive than 86-94.5? The bricknose option, while requiring more work, is likely going to be what is readily available. Going back to the need to keep the current interior, I'm not sure if there were any glaring differences among bricknose F-350s that would make any years better than others. As far as the dash goes, I've emailed a couple of the previously mentioned companies that make retrofitted gauges and haven't received a response. I'll be calling this week to try to get more info. I get what you're all saying regarding scope creep and having a project bleed me dry and appreciate the advice.

Thanks for that. I don't doubt for one second that the RKS setup and SD axle conversion is a superior option, but for my purposes, and what this truck will be used for, I don't know that it is a reasonable option to me at this moment. And again, if I'm wrong there, the worst case scenario would be I have a "phase II" of my project and do a RKS on a bricknose. The difference in cost would be at the cost of the donor I'm searching for now, and I don't think its a matter of cost as much as it is just finding the right truck/configuration.

Thanks Gary. The more I think about it, parts alone are probably going to be well north of the $2k I was originally thinking just for a conversion. If I truly want 4x4, I think I need to buy the 4x4 donor and do the body swap. I just missed out last week on an 85' F250 6.9 T19 4x4 Ext Cab. That would have made this easier, but still no OD.

If I'm looking at the right kit from Sky, it's around $600. I doubt I come by a SD axles for less than $500. So....am I safe to assume a 4x4 conversion is going to be roughly $2k in parts? Honestly, that seems reasonable, and would provide more benefit over just the 4x4 (ride, etc. as you mention). However, if I'm ok with the ride and design of a bricknose chassis 4x4, wouldn't it be a much more cost effective way to approach it just to swap the body? I'd still retain the option to do a shackle kit upgrade and axle upgrade in the future in the event I really did hate the ride that much. Please correct me if my thinking is wrong here. Thanks again!

Good to hear that the dash/gauge issues are at least resolvable. Yes, definitely two strikes, both of which are caused by my own personal preference. In all honesty, I did quite a bit of reading prior to purchasing the truck I have, but didn't quite take into considerations the issues of maintaining the original interior as much as possible. I'm not against custom gauges like I mentioned before, knowing that they aren't a cheap option, but if it means retaining the original interior as much as possible, so be it. I'm simply not a fan of the newer interiors. I bought the current truck because after a year of searching, anything with even remotely close body condition/paint/interior was selling for anywhere from $7-16k, and still weren't exactly the truck I wanted, so I figured I'd buy this one, and make what I want. Regarding emissions/diesel VIN...non-issue, thanks to good ole' fashion Missouri ways. Regarding the core support, I've seen a couple examples elsewhere where a bricknose core support was ultimately used with some massaging. I'll be looking more into that. I have not explored the option of the RSK option...I'll look more into that tonight. I wouldn't necessarily be opposed to this being a two-part build, with the first being a drivetrain swap from a bricknose IDI ZF5 truck, then later an RSK for the 4x4 component. I would also retain the well preserved frame by going that route.

I did my stander cab flare side without one. No money or head room for a lift in my garage. I was able to lift the cab, stripped other than windshield, off the frame my self. I had plastic horses I could kick under the cab once I lifted it up 1 side at a time. I had to pull the rear axle to clear the horses so I could pull it out from under the cab. On a crew cab it may be a little heavy so a crew to help lift would be of help. Or maybe you can set up a engine crane and a jig made to fit the top to lift the cab off the frame? Guys make a wood jig to fit across the door openings so not to mark the cab roof that fits the crane. I did not care as this cab was toast when I bought the truck, roll over. Dave ---- Thanks Dave, I do have a fairly large engine hoist, and have also considered installing a trolley style hoist in the rafters of my shop, for moderate loads. Either of those would probably suffice.

Thank you to all of you. The information provided will certainly save me much time, money, and aggravation. I've pretty well scrapped the idea of the powerstroke. While those trucks seem to be much more available in my area and the power is much desired, I don't want this to be a 5 year project either, and the benefits just don't seem to be worth the effort/cost. I will primarily be using this truck as a weekend warrior. Towing, but not necessarily heavy loads will be roughly once a month. A few more questions that after some searching, I'm still uncertain of. I'm starting to narrow down the options. I'll be buying a complete donor truck regardless. I think I've narrowed it down to either an 87-91 IDI 5 (ZF) speed 4x4 extended cab, or an 89-91 IDI E40D 4x4 extended cab. Not going to be exactly easy to find, but I'll travel (if anyone happens to know where one might be). Couple questions: 1. Going to an E40D, the above things previously mentioned in other posts are required. What about the shift patter for the sake of the dash? My 84' is a C6 auto truck originally. From what I can tell there are the same number of shift points for display/shifter purposes. C6 = PRND21 and E40D = PRN(OD)21. For the sake of wanting to maintain the original interior I have, is the E40D a much better option? 2. I'll be cutting into the floor of the truck regardless as I'm going to 4x4. Can anyone confirm ZF5 vs E40D fitment in an extended cab bullnose? I'm assuming the ZF5 just require replacement/cut of current tunnel/cover and sounds like E40D might? require modification? 3. After some consideration, I don't know that the option of swapping everything into this truck and then converting to 4x4 is such a great idea. I'd literally have to swap everything...I only have a clean interior and body on a pretty bare frame. There is some wiring, which appears complete. I need to reassess exactly what all is still there. But, am I going about this the most effecient way (Body swap vs. entire drivetrain swap and then 4x4 conversion?). Thoughts/opinions are very much welcomed. The guy I bought this from had mentioned he had superduty axles for it as well that he'd sell as he was planning to build up new radius arms and mount those, but that sounds like more fab work that I'm likely comfortable with, and I'd have to hire that work out. 4. For anyone who has swapped cabs/beds, is it worth it to have a post-style lift? I've considered buying one for a few years now, how much easier would it make this whole endeavor? Regarding my "improved' comment regarding other drivetrain options other than the 460/c6 option, it just seems to me that that is definitely the least efficient option (mpg), and possibly performing option. The only thing I gain by going that route is maintaining the original drivetrain, and thus ease of retaining interior components. Thanks again for all the comments, much appreciated.

Not sure why I hadn't considered it, but I've found a 85' 460 4x4 manual transmission option for fairly cheap. I've not heard great things about the 460/C6 combo.....is the manual much improved?

ArdWrknTrk, Thanks, yes, that is all things to consider. I anticipate the PS swap will probably be much more work than I intend to tackle, despite that it would be an awesome build. I think the 460/C6 combo is something I overall want to avoid. Which lands me closer to an IDI option. Either (6.9 or 7.3) would allow the ability to retain the majority of the truck I have, despite the fact that I would need to source some components like those you've mentioned (still need glow plug light solution (should be fairly simple), fuel switch (thanks, I didn't realize that), or just a 80-86 gauge cluster and various associated dash pieces. Before I totally disregard the PS option though, I think I'm going to contact some vendors that provide custom gauge builds that will fit into the 85' dash (https://newvintageusallc.mybigcommerce.com/80-86-ford-truck-f-s/ might be an option). The PSOM would come from the donor truck (plan would be to buy a complete runner regardless of which truck I buy next), it would just be a matter of making it work with a gauge cluster. I did realize, but forgot to mention that steering column would be different, and I would have to find a solution to at least get a appropriate looking steering wheel to match the 85' interior. I'm not a huge fan of the really skinny stock wheel as it is, so that would be a welcome upgrade.