Squirlye

Yes I would love that information. I was going to buy everything at once, then take a weekend and replace everything. But I think I'll replace the master cylinder first.

Thanks guys for all of your advice. I plan on redoing whole brake system. I'll start with the master cylinder for now, that way I'll be safe out on the road. My goal for the truck is to have a new old truck. Completely as reliable as possible. I'm not a fan of these new computer controlled vehicles.

It's been awhile since I've posted, but I've kept an eye on the forum the best I could. I still have a ton of work to go on this truck. Slow going, but i have been using it as my daily driver for a while now. So now for my problem. The brake pedal will almost go to the floor when stopping. The weird thing is, when down shifting the pedal becomes firmer with the higher rpm's. Then fade when I'm at a complete stop. At first I just thought I just needed the brakes to be bled. So I had the wife help out. The fluid was definitely bad, it was very dirty almost black. She did the best she could, the brake pedal was still a little softer than I'd like. A couple days later the pedal was really soft again. When you start it up, if you have pressure on the pedal it will go almost to the floor. I'm not leaking brake fluid anywhere. Any ideas or suggestions?

Go ahead and add me please.

So it's been almost a month since posting about my overheating issue. I didn't get to it until 2 days ago. So I picked up a combustion leak detector. And everything checked out. So no leaking head gasket, or it's not detecting it. The weird thing is after I checked it. I drove it to another town 31 miles away, and no problems. As a matter of fact, when the gauge got to the far side of the "N" the thermostat opened and it went back down. I'm wondering if it had an air pocket, and when I used the leak detector it removed the trapped air. I also checked the lower hose and it does not have a spring. I was going to flush out my cooling system in the future and replace all of the hoses. So I checked my new lower hose and it doesn't have a spring inside either. I guess I will have to drive it around on the freeway and see if it happens again.

It would fit easily, those are very small turbos. You would probably have to give up your A/C, and run a serpentine belt setup. Definitely modify the radiator core support to fit the intercooler. If it was just for racing you wouldn't have to modify very much. Because you can eliminate power steering, alternator etc. My SN95 Mustang friends put these in their cars all of the time. If you've seen the engine bay from one of these cars you would cringe. The modular motors are wider than the 460-429's especially the Dbl overhead cam version's. As a matter of fact I've seen 460's installed in these car's as well. And they are taller, but they do have to use a different hood. If you were going keep everything ie A/C and power steering. That would definitely take some some creative engineering, and serious fabrication skills.

Thanks guys, I'll try to check all of these thing this weekend if I get the chance. I actually have a combustion leak tester, so I'll use that to see if it's a head gasket. And while I'm at it I'll will check my compression in each cylinder. I've been wanting to do that for awhile. And I'll check for vacuum leaks as well. I will use a vacuum gauge to see if it's pulling the correct amount of vacuum. I've heard about the smoke test before, but I don't like cigars or cigarettes. So I will have to make a smoker of some kind. And I have already tried spraying carb cleaner to check for leaks. Ive never heard a change in the idle. But I'll try again. And while I'm at it, I'll pull the carb and give it a good once over. Hell I might even change the oil, it's probably getting close to that time anyway. Also I might have forgotten to mention that when i installed the HEI I deleted the whole computer system. So thanks again for the help. I will report back with my findings this weekend.

I will have to check the radiator hose to see if the spring is there. It idles good but not smooth. Plug #5 is a bit oil fouled. I'm pretty sure it has a bad valve seal. It only smokes at start up and when idling. It starts up just as good as my 96 Mustang. Except in the cold mornings, the choke doesn't work. I think that it needs to be messed with. As soon as I get in my truck after work it fires up immediately. And I'm sure I have a few vacuum leak's somewhere. But on the other hand I get almost 14 mpg. Go figure that, at our work we have a 2017 F-150 eco-boast that is only getting 16.3 mpg. This is a work in progress, I'm enjoying the tinkering for now lol...

Hey guys I'm back, it's been awhile since I've posted about my 86 F-150. Im now driving it almost daily. I went ahead and installed the HEI distributer, it was a piece of cake. I put in the aftermarket tach at the same time. Everything works great except the bulb burned out after about a week. No tach at night, no biggie I just shift by ear anyway. I bought a complete window and door seal kit (Fairchild) from rock auto. It definitely was worth every penny. Now the windows don't rattle when I'm driving on those bumpy ole Arizona roads. It's also a whole lot quieter inside. I also picked up a Taurus alternator and exhaust manifolds from a 90 F-150 300 Il6 from the local pull n save. Those 2 will be by next install when I have the down time time. I've been busier than a one armed pin setter lol. I've got big plans for this truck so I will be posting my questions and ideas in the near future. I do have a few quirks going on as well. It gets hot when I go down the freeway after about 10 miles. Not sure why, changed out the thermostat when I first got it. No leaks anywhere and the heater works great. I'm wondering if the water pump is going bad, but like I said no leaks anywhere. Also when I'm in 4th gear it bucks if I'm under 2000 rpm. Not sure what the gear ratio is in the transmission. But it seems like a big jump between 3rd and 4th gear. It pulls really good from 2nd to 3rd. It has a granny for 1st gear and I never really use it. So that's what's going on with me, thanks for all of your future help.

I re-did my 96 mustangs 8.8 I went with 4.10 from ford performance. And I've heard that Yukons are good too. If you are going to replace the gears. Do a complete rebuild. There are numerous complete kits available. Bearings, seals, shims and even gear fluid with a separate bottle of friction modifier.if it comes with the cover gasket throw it away and just use a high quality RTV. When replacing rear end gears, you need to break them in according to the manufactures recommendation. Also I had a differential specialist shop do the work. $335 with a 1 year warranty. The stock 8.8 in our trucks should have no problem handling 300 hp. I've seen some guys use the 8.8 with just axle upgrades i.e. 31 or 35 spline. With motors putting out 800 hp. The 8.8 has plenty of gear and axle upgrades, and even brake options out there at reasonable prices. Not to hijack your thread, but I wonder if the Mustangs rear disk brake setup would work. I've seen the conversation kits that use GM parts. I converted my stock GT rear brakes to 11.5 Cobra. All it required was the cobra mounting brackets. But I'm sure stock 15" rims won't work. When I did my cobra conversion I had to go up to 18" rims. Again sorry for the hijack,

Try putting the seal in your freezer for a hour or so. The cold should shrink it down enough to see if it's the correct seal. I used to have to do this with the rear window seal, when I would swap them out from a fixed panel to a sliding window. I got so good at installing them. That everyone in the neighborhood wanted me to install sliding rear windows in their trucks. Like my boss always says, be careful of what your good at. Lol.....

Hey thanks for the help. These last couple of pictures and schematics help me understand it now. I also just got my new HEI dizzy. So I will be looking for advice on wiring it up as well. My biggest problem with electrical work is not understanding all of the different relays, resistors, fuse blocks, fusible links etc.... I have a very mechanical mind. I can fabricate almost anything. Pretty much out of any kind of material. If it bolts screws or nails. It doesn't matter. I have a photographic memory when it comes to mechanical parts. I built my very first bicycle when I was six. By the time I graduated high school I could weld, use a milling machine and lathe. I built houses for 25 years. But for the life of me I cannot get my head around electrical work. As for my uploading pictures, I have no idea why these last pictures came over as links. And the pictures that I uploaded of my distributer came up fine. I didn't do anything different. And once again I appreciate all of the help from all of you guys.

I am an absolute idiot when it comes to electrical work. If it's not plug n play I'm screwed. I'm trying to install a aftermarket tach. And the directions are very specific and easy to understand. But when I try to find the wires or fuse location it doesn't make any sense. So I've included a few pictures. Can anyone please tell me what exact wire or fuse or anywhere to connect the wires to. I'm about to receive an new HEI distributer in a few days. And I'm sure I will need help with that as well. Thanks in advance, I really appreciate it.

Does anyone know about this brand of dizzy ? https://www.topstreetperformance.com/hei-ford-inline-6-distributor-240-350 Also you talk about wiring a relay. What kind, where to buy it and what exact power source do I wire it to. Sorry about the stupid questions. But electrical work is not my strong point. But it seems you guys have a lot of knowledge on this subject. Again as I posted before I want to go with the throttle body route. It should be way more reliable and better performance. I think I have my mind made up to go with the EFI exhaust manifolds and a offenhauser intake. And again I will be eliminating all of the unnecessary emissions. Also future plans of buying a completely new wiring harness. As a lot of wires are cracking and have been chewed on by packrats. And of course the 3G alternator swap. I'm really starting to like this truck more and more. So the first order of business is to get it reliable to be my daily driver. And get the A/C working again. Arizona summers are brutal.

The move to a sniper unfortunately is not in the immediate future. But after ready other posts about distributers. I think I will get a HEI distributor now. And just keep the carb until I go to the full throttle body swap. As I said before I had to remove the cats. They were completely trashed. So going to a vacuum advance distributer should take care of timing problems correct ?