Atlas75

Brakes failed today. I crawled under the truck from front to back and couldn't find anything wet. So I went up top under the hood and the only thing I can find is some wheaping where the master cylinder mates to the booster. There is a 1" wide area under the master going down the booster. I'm guessing the master has gone bad. How does this affect the booster?

I checked the slave cylinder and it appears to be dry. I'm not sure why, but I never checked the clutch master cylinder fluid level when we bought the truck. It was quite low so I topped it off. I also noticed that the seal/boot under the cap was really distorted. I don't think it was making a seal between the master and the cap. I wonder if the fluid evaporated slowly over time? I tried the clutch both with the engine running and with it off. It seems to be functioning as it should now that the fluid level is good. I'll try to take it for a drive tomorrow and see what it does.

I haven't posted in a while but my daughter has been enjoying her truck. So far we have upgraded the stereo and done a few things to the glow plug system. We still have more to do with the glow plug system as we attempt an upgrade to the 7.3 controller. More on that at another time. My question for today involves the clutch. My daughter drove to work yesterday and everything was fine. On the way home however, the clutch pedal would only return half way. If she didn't use it for a bit, it would slowly return to the resting position. I haven't had a chance to crawl under the truck yet but this sounds like it could be the slave cylinder. Anything else I should be looking for?

Here is the door tag. Even though it seems like we solved the issue. Dana 70 it is!

I need a little help determining what the rear axel is in the ‘84 F250. The axel code on the door sticker is 72. That code does not have a listing for 1984 in the rear axel documentation on this site. The Dana BOM number from the axel tag says 605205-7. That code comes back to a 1983 to 1985 1/2 Dana 70 from a chassis cab F350. The truck is not a chassis cab. It is a pickup. So you can see the issue? The two pieces of info seem to conflict.

Jagg82, just curious what your experience has been with the controller and glow plugs from accurate diesel. I am considering these items as well for my daughters 1984 with the 6.9L.

Will a Sterling 10.25 from a 1987 F250 bolt into an ‘84? A local yard has one with 3.55’s and limited slip. I think it would be better for highway speeds vs. the 4.10’s that are in it now. Thoughts?

Carb is fixed! The issue was the new retainer clip from the rebuild kit that locks around the seat. It was somehow binding with the float and not allowing it to move up and down freely. I went back to the original retainer clip and everything moves freely now.

Where is everyone getting their vacuum hose and fittings for the heater controls? I have been researching the size and material but am coming up with varying answers. I need to do further testing but I am pretty certain there is a line or two that have leaks or have collapsed.

The glow plugs do seem to work. The PO replaced them shortly before we purchased the truck. This truck also has a push button for the glow plugs. I assume the controller is the issue as they frequently went bad. I plan to rebuild the factory system with a solid state controller and eliminate the push button.

I’d like to introduce the newest member of our bullnose family! It is a 1984 F250, 6.9L diesel, 4x4, T19 truck. My daughter has been looking for a truck for a while and this one fit the bill. It also has A/C! Anyway, here is a photo. We have a few things to work on before she can drive it to school but it runs, drives, and stops good so the basics are there. I think her truck is in better shape than mine! I like this photo because you can see my 1980 in the background.

It has been a bit since I last posted and I am back with a carburetor question for the group. I recently pulled and rebuilt my Motorcraft 2150 with a Mike’s carb kit. While going through the carb I found a couple missing gaskets and a lot of crud. I am surprised the thing ran at all! Anyway, I reinstalled the carb and the truck fired right up. But….I have a flooding problem. I have gas coming out of the fuel bowl vent. Could it be as simple as the needle not seating or is there something bigger going on like too much fuel pressure? It never flooded before the rebuild but it was running rich…presumably because the power valve gasket was missing so there was fuel on both sides of the power valve when I took it apart. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

I have never been good at reading spark plugs so I am hoping someone here is a natural at it. These are from the drivers side. I ran out of light to change the passenger side so they will get changed tomorrow. They do appear to be uniform…just not sure if it’s a good uniform or a bad uniform!

I have new Dana 50 nuts coming (the 4 eared kind). These are like 6 ear Dana 60s I think someone else put on. BUT, I will try to get a shot of the threads on the spindle tomorrow for ya'll. On that, the threads look buggered. Not to the point you cannot get a nut on, but enough to make the initial start a bit of a bear. Mine are the 6 ear kind as well. The Dana 50 and 60 share a number of parts.

Is type F transmission fluid correct for the power steering in our trucks?