BLES

What are the "black side window masks" referred to in this thread?

First: Thanks to everyone on this board. I enjoy reading and learning from you all. So, I drove my truck again for the first time in over 24 years! It was originally a 300-6/AOD that I put a built 460/C6 in. It was my first vehicle and was my daily until l parked it and pulled the engine to do a refresh. Life happened and it's sat on the back burner since 1997. I was diagnosed with cancer last year and I decided it was time to get things done!;-) It's now sporting a 12:1 aluminum headed 502 stroker, solid cam, Holley 950HP, dumping into 2" primary headers. Fired right up and ran well, tranny shifted fine, and it maintained 170 degrees on a 20 mile cruise/rip. I'm calling it a win! Possibly a GearVendors unit and new rear this winter should have it ready for the street/strip next year. All of the purists here will hate me for this, but it's a riot! Paint and body will have to wait a little longer. Thanks again for all the info here.

Thanks Gary! I can't say I totally understand that, but it seems I should just go ahead and cut it out. That was my plan, until I got wondering if there was something that wouldn't look "cut out" afterward. I sure appreciate the knowledge you (and others) share. I have likely come across this in the past, but I would have been looking a while to find it again. Thanks again for bailing me out.

I have a 1983 F100 that originally had a 300-6. Now I'm running a big block and a rad for a 460/F350. The rad bolts right in using the alternate (unused with 300-6) factory holes. My question is regarding the hole for the actual rad in the support. The larger rad fits nice, but the opening is about 6" too narrow. The original rad fit the opening perfect, but the extra width of the bigger rad is covered from airflow. Since the bolts holes are there for the larger rad, I assumed that's the only change, but now I'm wondering if there is a different support that also has the larger core opening for air flow through the entire rad.?? Current opening (and original core) is about 22" wide vs 28" wide for the larger F350 rad. Thanks.

Thanks gentlemen!

Could someone elaborate on the comments about the resistor and heater motor, please? It sounds like you're referring to a known problem.... Sorry, it's not known to me! Please educate me. Thanks.

Like this? There would be plenty of room to run one pipe, but might take some creativity to make it happen. This is four 2" pipes exiting over the frame in that area, to run down the outside of the frame.

displacement4me: What headers do you have? I can't see any in the photo.

I trimmed quite a bit to get to this. They are close now, but mostly clear. I still need to trim a bit more.

Hard to see much. This is them in there with dummy engine for fitting: I got the brake valve slightly relocated and remounted tonight. I don't like the way it is, but I'm going to try it like this. After I get everything working, I plan to redo everything in a frame off project if I have health to do so another year.

That's sort of what I've concluded. Is that what you did, or are you using a remote filter? Also interested in what you used for headers.? I used L&L for my original swap, but I need 2" primaries with my new engine and AFR heads. Only 2" I can find are the #9229 from Mad Dog Headers. I'm waiting on them. Hope they fit, as they're fenderwell exit. Do you have a build thread? OK. Time for an update. I got a new Ford Racing 90 degree adapter that takes the smaller "500" filter and did a bit of modifying with plasma cutter, so the oil filter issue is dealt with. Finally got my headers from Mad Dog. These are not a quick bolt-on, but again, some help from the plasma, cutting out the plastic fenderwells, and moving the brake valve block, and I got them in and mocked up on a bare block/heads. These fenderwell exit 2" primaries to fit the AFR heads, so they take up quite a bit more real estate than my old L&L/Doug Thorley headers. Nice to make some progress again.

Here's my version done about 1990. I now have a gps speedo. Didn't like the way it was but needed a speedo.

Thanks guys. The cab is very solid. It started as a very small crack and "grew" over the years while parked. We do have very extreme temps and I think that and age just took it's toll. I think I'll just repair as Gary suggested. Just wondered if anyone else had ever done it before I "re-invent the wheel" as far as repair method.

Anyone else had this happen? Occurred while parked for several years. I assume my only fix is a complete dash replacement.? Anyone done that?

Awesome work!