confusion about the HEI Relay

Well, there you go!  

Your Bronco is putting up a fuss because it's breathing through a "French" carburetor!  😉

This shouldn't be a problem considering I'm in Acadiana. Upity French.  This is what Im dealing with.  

I wasn't saying anything about the French.
They gave us a great deal on Louisiana territory!  

But a Chebbie carb?
Sacrilege!!!  

You're running the booster from the front of the carb?
Isn't there a manifold port in the back of that intake?

So you've got the speed control disconnected!
Did it help?

What's up with the knife switch?

My questions are (a) where is the PCV connected ? (b) why not use the vacuum tree on the back of the manifold for the brake booster ? (c) who wired this thing, Larry, Moe, Curly, Jack Legg or Ham Phist?

I think Joe Lucas is spinning in his grave.

Exactly why I posted pics!  Please tell me how to run the hoses.  Thats the way the holley was recommended.  The back is PCV I thought

just from my observation of the photo. you are using an afb in lieu of the Holley this truck came with. is this a c6 truck. if so, where is the kickdown rod? it is an aftermarket aluminum intake but is the factory throttle bracket. this bracket is intended for the narrow footprint of the Holley and therefore has the throttle linkage at an angle which often causes a bind. I have made many brackets for this reason alone. in order for the throttle to keep a linear pull its important to keep it at a 90-degree angle to the throttle on the carb. also, the throw (travel) has a limited range. as a safety it is normal for the throttle to need to be compressing the spring as much as 1/4" to snap onto the carb ball stud. this maintains enough closing pressure on the throttle lever.

That made me laugh.  I dont have a tree.

it is more important for the pcv to go to as common of a vacuum point as possible as to make all cylinders draw pcv equally. for example, if it were on one single runner, that cylinder would get a lean charge as it would be pulling pcv vapors instead. the brake booster is different as it does not flow anything (unless it's bad being a vacuum leak) it can go to a vacuum tree as long as its big enough port for the hose.

it's possible that you have a plugged threaded port to a runner plugged with Allen socket plug. this can be replaced with a brass 3/8nptx3/8barb fitting and take the booster if necessary. just be certain it's an intake runner and not a coolant passage for a temp sender or the like.

So what your saying is that I shouldnt use a port on the Carb I should use the Manifold?  I did do what you said to get a vacuum to the little tree located on the body near the hood, I used a 1/8 NPT connection.

Oh and the kick down arm is in the shop I havent installed yet as Im fighting other things atm.

This became a huge issue in early EFI Mustangs.
I think it was #7, would eat so much oil that it would diesel and blow away the crown down to the ring lands, aasssnd away you go!
Relocating this to a new bung in the plenum 'fixed' the problem, but it should never have happened.

The "little tree" is a vacuum manifold for the climate control and the speed control.
1/8 should be enough, because these operate on potential, not volume.

The booster needs volume, and a functional check valve.
Usually it is the center sprue of a vacuum tree located in one of the rear runners, like #7 or 8 depending on the manufacturer.

Speaking of.... what manifold do you actually have?

I will buy a tree.  They're surprisingly expensive. I cant find anything to identify the manifold. I do know that its a summit and I bought in combo with the holley 4160 (which they recommended) that's gone now.  But I now have a new more pressing problem.  The cheap AutoZone reman starter I just bought is just spinning. I moved the crank by hand a few times but it makes a weak attempt to engage and then just spins free as a bird.  The lady at AutoZone told me not buy that junk but its the only one that fits between these dang headers.  Other people I have spoke to recommended a High torque mini.  It worked for a little while but slowly started making more and more noise until its death.  I wrapped the poor fellow in a blanket and wrapped the headers to no avail  :(

Is your truck a manual or automatic? If an automatic, get a starter for a 1990 Lincoln Town Car. It is the last of the 302 Windsor powered ones. If it is a manual, get one for a 1994 F series 300/302/351 manual transmission.

These are PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) units and are smaller physically that the old "rat trap" moveable pole piece ones. Get a good reflective heat shield for it and leave some space for air circulation. If Gary, Jim and I can all crank a hot 460 with one of these, there is no reason it won't spin a 351W easily.

Its an automatic, are the Lincoln ones smaller than normal?  It needs to be smaller to fit in-between the headers (stupid things).  I had to take the cover off the solenoid just to get it in and then went insane trying to put it back on lol.

Like this???
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/starter/p/duralast-gold-starter-dlg581s/352101_0_0

Like this...

https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/ford-f-truck-bronco-4-9l-300-6cyl-new-starter-1965-1996-3223-410-14033.html


Ford #'s. F2TU-11000-AA, F2TZ-11002-A, F7PU-11000-FA, F7PZ-11002-FA

But that says 300 I have a 351W?  I'll run with it if you guys say so.

Did you look at the application chart?  🤔

All Windsor bell pattern trucks take the same starter.
Well, you need to differentiate between manual or automatic, because the engagement depth is different for a flywheel than a flexplate...